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Pardon me for not reading the entire thread.
The overwhelmingly single source of electrical issues on a boat is bad connections, especially if all worked in the past.
Corrosion at connections becomes a bugger because you can test fine for voltage, but the added resistance due to corrosion may only cause issue under load or full current. At full current this added resistance creates heat and in my case resulted in a lost connection that returned upon cooling. The fuse looked fine until I pulled it and found the fuse blades corroded.
Also, if you check for voltage, are you bypassing the existing ground? Ground connections are often the source because they are generally more exposed and overlooked.
Connection issues are the most inexpensive to resolve and must be corrected no matter how much money you spend beforehand.
The overwhelmingly single source of electrical issues on a boat is bad connections, especially if all worked in the past.
Corrosion at connections becomes a bugger because you can test fine for voltage, but the added resistance due to corrosion may only cause issue under load or full current. At full current this added resistance creates heat and in my case resulted in a lost connection that returned upon cooling. The fuse looked fine until I pulled it and found the fuse blades corroded.
Also, if you check for voltage, are you bypassing the existing ground? Ground connections are often the source because they are generally more exposed and overlooked.
Connection issues are the most inexpensive to resolve and must be corrected no matter how much money you spend beforehand.
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