Showa tilt trim

[oswald900]

My tilt trim is leaking oil so i brought a removal tool and also the seals but no way can i get the cap off.

Ive put a bar onto the end of the s****et wrench that goes onto the tool soaked in penetrene hit the bar with a hammer and it just wont budge.

Anyone give me sometips on how to remove the cap ?

Ive been told hit it with a centre punch or use heat but never done anything with heat i dont want to overheat something.

Cheers

[almetelo]

you must post which motor model / PID you are talking about so that someone can help you.

Showa PTT are used on lots of Yamaha models and other brands

[oswald900]

Motor is Yamaha 130 v4 two stroke saltwater series hope this helps

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Motor is Yamaha 130 v4 two stroke saltwater series hope this helps

We need the Year and there should be a set of 3-4 letters, txlr, etc, those too...

To get an idea. Put a piece of PVC over the tool (while in place), let the engines weight, hold the pipe and tool down and crank away. Some heat from a heat gun won't hurt as your replacing those seals anyway.

For the center lift shaft, same idea BUT cut a slot in the PVC to slip past the shaft,(due to the attachment "head"), then, the same procedure.

[oswald900]

Would this be it

130BETO
6L1X 1005074D

[oswald900]

I need to replace the tilt not the trim ram seals

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Would this be it

130BETO
6L1X 1005074D

Yes that would be it.

As I noted above, same procedure, just cut a slot, length wise (I'd use at least schedule 40) to fit over the SS shaft.

Put on your tool, slip the PVC over it, and let the some of the engines weight keep the tool from popping up..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just an FYI, the code letters, BETO is broken down in this page(a 1990):

Yamaha Outboard Parts
(on the lower end of the page)



Just curious, I don't see your model, is the engine a US model?

[oswald900]

I'm in Australia

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, in any case, the procedure is the same..

Please update any progress..

[boscoe99]

My tilt trim is leaking oil so i brought a removal tool and also the seals but no way can i get the cap off.

Ive put a bar onto the end of the s****et wrench that goes onto the tool soaked in penetrene hit the bar with a hammer and it just wont budge.

Anyone give me sometips on how to remove the cap ?

Ive been told hit it with a centre punch or use heat but never done anything with heat i dont want to overheat something.

Cheers

A hot air gun will create enough heat to expand the cylinder but not hurt it in the process. The kind that you girl friends use to do their air but which puts out a much higher temperature. With the cylinder heated maybe try some dry ice on the cap to shrink it a bit.

Don't hammer the wrench but rather apply pressure and hold it for a period of time. Helps to have the kind of tool that has four pins to fully engage the cap.

Using the PVC trick will help to keep the tool in place on the cap while also ensuring that hydraulic pressure is not impinging on the cap from within.

[oswald900]

Ive been told hot guns don't generate enough heat so haven't worried about trying that.

We have also kept pressure on it but what sort of time you talking about ?

I brought the tool online and never saw a pic of it before i brought it as the boat shop told me it would do the job.Its in a u shape and adjustable, you put a socket wrench on it to loosen and the tool only has 2 pins.

Nobody here will sell me a 4 pin one

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re the heat gun. I have a CHEAP HF heat gun and that thing get things SUPER HOT. (maybe $15.00)

We used it on a Sazuki 140 LU to free up a prop shaft carrier from the housing.

That and a very HD puller popped it out with about 100 ft lbs of torque on the tool. BTW, as fast as aluminum dissipates heat, you could NOT TOUCH the MAIN unit it was so hot.

IME, a cheap, mandatory tool that's much cheaper to operate than torches (which I also have a small set).


What we had to pull apart and get re-welded(carrier is about 3" DEEPER than the crack:





All done:

[99yam40]

if you use the hammer and punch ,just buy a new cap, as it will damage it.
or at least make sure you do not damage the 2 holes your tool uses

[oswald900]

We need the Year and there should be a set of 3-4 letters, txlr, etc, those too...

To get an idea. Put a piece of PVC over the tool (while in place), let the engines weight, hold the pipe and tool down and crank away. Some heat from a heat gun won't hurt as your replacing those seals anyway.

For the center lift shaft, same idea BUT cut a slot in the PVC to slip past the shaft,(due to the attachment "head"), then, the same procedure.

Where abouts is the piece of pvc going over the removal tool handle or on something else