Power tilt/trim component question F150 TLRC

[BaffinBay]

Does the SHOWA PTT down valve subassembly, p/n 64E-43850-00-00 include a check ball and retaining pin? I have searched several Yamaha OEM parts breakdowns (PTT section 2, item 15, "valve subassembly) and do not find the check ball and retaining pin shown or listed. The Crowley Marine site has a photo of the subassembly, with what appears to be a retaining pin, but it does not show a check ball and pin as components. My unit does indeed have a check ball and pin. The pin is not reusable after I removed it. I am trying to confirm correct assembly. The retaining pin is about .0385" diameter. A torch tip cleaning wire will get me out of the bind for now. If a I order a new subassembly at $70 or so will include the check ball and retaining pin? The deep overhaul is complete.

FYI almost every flange bolt broke off flush in the threaded castings on disassembly, even after an extended soak in penetrating oil, followed by very specific heat with a micro torch. I ended up drilling out the embedded broken bolts, and installing new SS helicoils. It was a nightmare, but I have the shop and the tools. The unit is back together and performing well even without the missing check ball retaining pin, after I properly primed the system on the second go round.

Finally, Suzuki uses this exact PTT in some of their units. They have a very detailed explanation of how this hydraulic system works, up and down, with flow charts. Check their factory service manuals for DF200A, DF175A, DF150AZ, DF150A, DF200 "Power Tilt and Trim".

[panasonic]

I have no idea if the parts you need are included...but could you not call Crowley Marine or boats.net and ask if they can check for you?

I was working on and older Mariner 35hp awhile ago and could not believe how much detail was included in the service manual! Yamaha manuals don't come close in this regard.

Good luck

[panasonic]

Thank God for helicoils!

[boscoe99]

Where is fair deal? He has the scoop on this issue.

Think you are looking for parts that are part of an assembly. Not sold separately.

[BaffinBay]

Boscoe, I think you are correct. I see the check ball in the Suzuki diagram found in their factory service manual "Power Trim and Tilt" for Df150A, etc. I will use a. 0385 wite from a torch tip cleaner in place of the damaged retainer pin. Shade tree I know, but will work.
Ray

[BaffinBay]

"Wire", not "wite"!

[99yam40]

just to maybe help someone else from messing up that pin,
how did you manage to make it unusable when taking it apart?

[BaffinBay]

I removed the check ball retaining pin with a very fine wire drift and needle nose pliers, for thoroughly cleaning the assembly. Looking back I should have left it alone. Same for the oil pump assembly (I had no trouble with that, but the folks at FiveStar Marine suggest minimal teardown due to possible complications). The worst part of the repair was dealing with the broken flange bolts. It is common, but very difficult for the DIYers. You will also want to invest in the special spanner sockets needed to remove the tilt/trim cylinder caps. These are must have. Compressed air, a good vise, and a parts washing station are also helpful. There are at least two long YouTubes out there on this repair. Professional repair is about $700 if the PTT unit can be repaired. A new unit is twice that.

[BaffinBay]

Correction: entire new PTT assembly for F150TLRC, Yamaha OEM, $2,240 plus freight! 7/2/2022

[panasonic]

Is the torch tip cleaner going to fit the hole snug? A #61 drill bit for example is 0.039"...you could cut the shank off the bit and use that for a pin.
Just a suggestion if you want it to fit snug.

[BaffinBay]

Thank you Panasonic. Good suggestion. The torch tip wire is snug.

[BaffinBay]

Success on the PTT overhaul: F150TLRC (2004 model year), finally. During the test run on the reassembled PTT unit I had a hydraulic leak at the pump manifold to PTT body flange, only on downstroke over ride when the trim pistons bottomed out. This leak was not there prior to my removing the pump/manifold from the main body during overhaul, so something had changed. The 5 O-rings in this flange were new Yamaha. Short story: during disassembly the 3 stainless steel flange bolts all broke off due to severe corrosion. 2 broke off flush at the threads, the long bolt broke off about an inch inside the pump manifold, meaning I was not able to separate the flanges. Penetrating oil, heat, and careful hammer work did nor free up the broken bolt or move the flanges. I finally went to a thin scraper to force the flanges apart just enough to cut the bolt with a hacksaw blade. During this prying process it appears I distorted the pump manifold flange just enough to keep the down stroke relief circuit O-ring from sealing properly. I could not see this at first. I had the manifold off and on twice, the second time lapping the two flange surfaces with a flat sharpening stone and honing oil. No success. The final fix: I removed the pump manifold (3rd time), wiped clean and dry, and applied Permatex Surface Prep activator for anaerobics (item 24163), let dry for 5 minutes, and applied a thin bead of Permatex anaerobi Gasket Maker (Item 51817) around each of the O-rings and the periphery of the flange, and assembled. 75 minutes later I primed the oil pump (removed the top cover) and test ran the unit. No leak. Repeated several times, bled system, repeat, all OK. This was a last ditch effort. I know an O-ring does not require this sort of sealant. I was running low on options other than replacing very expensive castings. It worked. My son and grandson are flying in from CA to fish with the old man in a few days. We will make that trip to the Texas coast.

[BaffinBay]

Photos of pump housing flange to main body.

[BaffinBay]

Sorry guys, I am trying to get under the size limit on the photo. This is the one showing the helicoil in long bolt drilling. This side of the flange was distorted during a difficult teardown causing seating problems for the down relief valve O-ring.

[pstephens46]

I have an f150 2005 model. I had a leak and traced it to those little orings mentioned in post. This unit is know for that. I ordered parts and had grand plans to fix myself. Separated the unit from boat and brought into garage. I was able to remove the 2 short bolts. The long bolt didn’t budge. I went a little too gorilla and that bolt started to bend. I stopped and hauled to a good shop here in Ga. He blasted that thread area with a torch. Burned all the paint off that area, but was able to get it loose. I still have that bent bolt. Aluminum, steel and salt. Go figure.