Hopefully one of you have had this same problem and can help.. I have a 2007 225 hpdi and I was replacing my starter and I let the positive lead touch the block and it arced out and now I have no power.. let won’t do anything and I also don’t have trim or gauges. It has to be a fuse right?? I can’t seem to find it if so..
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Starter install gone wrong.. 07 225 hpdi
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always good to disconnect the battery before doing any work on a 12 volt system be it car ,truck, ATV, or boat etc..
there should be a fuse,
your service manual should have wiring diagrams,
but I am of no help as to where to find them on that motor itself,
others should show up to direct you soon
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postalways good to disconnect the battery before doing any work on a 12 volt system be it car ,truck, ATV, or boat etc..
there should be a fuse,
your service manual should have wiring diagrams,
but I am of no help as to where to find them on that motor itself,
others should show up to direct you soon
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Part #36 , the main fuse (a 60 amp fuse) ? :
(or 38 or 39)
https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...7/electrical-3
Capture.JPG ? :
Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 05-23-2020, 07:31 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by Yammerjammer88 View PostSo I figured it out .. went back to the beginning when I had power to everything and put the old starter back on and I had power to everything again so apparently the new starter I bought is garbage..
thanks for all of the info, it’s greatly appreciated!!
Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
Aftermarket starter I gather?
My original issue is I have to hit the key 2-3 times to get it to start.. the starter engages each time just isn’t putting out enough power to turn the engine over.. I’m sold on a weak starter.. if anyone thinks im wrong I’ll gladly take your opinions.. only other electrical part I see in the loop is the relay coming from the key.. in my thoughts the starter wouldn’t even engage is that was going out .
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Old starter power new starter no power, old starter power hit switch 2/3 times starts. Assuming you have no mechanical issues with the engine. sounds more like bad connections or cable. Have you tried hooking power and ground directly to the starter?
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Originally posted by Yammerjammer88 View PostHopefully one of you have had this same problem and can help.. I have a 2007 225 hpdi and I was replacing my starter and I let the positive lead touch the block and it arced out and now I have no power.. let wont do anything and I also dont have trim or gauges. It has to be a fuse right?? I cant seem to find it if so..
If it makes no sense then why post? If you can’t help with the current issue then move on to a post you can benefit. Sorry it confused you.to start out withyou said you had no power to even the gauges after you arced the battery pos cable to the motor.
then you said the new starter is bad.
how can a bad starter keep power from the gauges or T&T?
I can understand the starter not functioning if it was bad, but it would not affect the other things like gauges or T&T.
either you have a bad connection some where or you hooked up a wire wrong.
also the start solenoid/relay not making a good connection inside( burnt contacts) can act like a high resistance connection on battery cables or a bad battery, and not let enough current flow to the starter to operate properly
I am not sure you new starter is bad, or the old starter either
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
Soto start out withyou said you had no power to even the gauges after you arced the battery pos cable to the motor.
then you said the new starter is bad.
how can a bad starter keep power from the gauges or T&T?
I can understand the starter not functioning if it was bad, but it would not affect the other things like gauges or T&T.
either you have a bad connection some where or you hooked up a wire wrong.
also the start solenoid/relay not making a good connection inside( burnt contacts) can act like a high resistance connection on battery cables or a bad battery, and not let enough current flow to the starter to operate properly
I am not sure you new starter is bad, or the old starter either
i turned the key and even then it sounded weak. I swapped batteries to make sure it wasn’t a bad battery but it did the same on the other battery as well. Took the cowling off when I got home and turned the key and the starter gear would pop up into the other set of gears first or second key turn but wouldn’t turn it until 3rd or 4th key turn. Also when removing the old starter for the first time everything was tight.
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If you want to make sure it is not the relay contacts try jumping around them.
from all of the DC current they are carrying when they open up they arc and burn
It may take a few trys to get a good connection some times.
you can even use jumper cables to jump directly from the battery to eliminate the cables also.
Pos and neg
there have been cables that go bad internally under the insulation due to corrosion, sometimes close to the ends, but not always.
also any bad connection, brushes not making good contact ,or a connection in the battery switch(if you have one)
as I said a bad starter will not keep the gauges and T&T from working
do you have more than one battery?
one as a house battery and another to just start the motor?
probably not from what you have written so far.Last edited by 99yam40; 05-24-2020, 01:42 PM.
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I jumped the relay and the starter still does the same thing, it’ll pop up into the gear but won’t turn it until I hit the ignition a couple more times. I tried using different batteries that I know for a fact have enough charge and cca to start the motor. I haven’t tried using jumper cables to see if my main wires are bad, that’ll be my next test. Also I don’t have a pergo switch on the batteries.
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