With a little trial and error, you can double check, but... usually, pink is the fuel gauge sender lead, blue is for backlighting and obviously black is ground. Which means, purple (according to my scenario) should be the voltage. Trial and error... blue should only show +12V with your Nav lights on. The purple +V should vary based on engine running or not.
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Battery voltage meter sits at 0 while boat runs
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The contortion work used to keep me fit and supple. But now with age stiffness has settled in, and consequent lingering "strain" injuries seem more prevalent.
I am currently reviewing my medical insurance, for serious injury cover like pulling muscles off the bone, dislocations and tendon and li****nt injuries! I'd like cover for the cost of getting me out when I do get stuck, even getting about in the roof space is becoming a challenge (want to open ceiling for hoist and insulating the garage ceiling; can't stand the cold now as well as the heat).
Even moving boat batteries are now challenging.
I make good use of Led lighting, mirrors and phone camera before embarking on a crampt personal expedition.
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Ground out the black connector on the gauge to a battery. (The gauge is disconnected from the harness)
Then jump to the other terminals one at a time.
As stated, (one terminal as a time), the back light will come on, the other gauge will come on.
Then check if the voltmeter reacts to voltage directly applied-if the volt meter does nothing, it's the meter itselfLast edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 07-22-2019, 07:23 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Hi, All:
I sent a note to Faria support and they responded with the below note. I thought you might like to see it.
To test the voltage you would use your meter on the violet wire, 12VDC and the black wire, Ground.
The blue wire would be for your lights, 12DC and the pink wire would be from the sending unit in the fuel tank.
The fuel section of this gauge uses the same power feed that the voltage gauge uses so if the fuel gauge is working the volts should be reading too.
Faria does not manufacture a gauge with this configuration any longer. We can however repair these gauges. There are flat fees involved for gauges over 3 years old.
Please see the link below. It will take you to our repair service online where you can read all the details.
Also, try going to WWW.greatlakesskipper.com. They carry old/new stock gauges. you may be able to find a replacement gauge at their site.
Here is a link to our online gauge repair program. All of the information you need to send it in for repair is on this page.
For Repair of Faria Marine Instruments older than 3 years please visit our Gauge Repair section at the link below to obtain a repair or return number:
Repair Link:
FariaBeede.com/RMA
Warranty Link:
https://fariabeede.com/2-pages/warranty.php
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So, the company wrote (see above post), that the voltage meter should show 12v on the violet wire to sense battery voltage, and there is voltage when I turn the key to the first position, but the voltage meter does not work...the fuel gauge works. And, the voltage on the blue wire is nothing...which is supposed to be the fuel, but that works. So, it sounds as if the company told me incorrectly about the blue and violet wires. Also, the lights don't work (pink wire) in the gauge. So, I guess I have to trace back to see why voltage isn't getting to the gauge through the blue and pink wires. Also, I didn't actually turn on the engine just because it was getting dark and I figure I'll pick it up again tomorrow...I only turned the key to the first position. Shouldn't I see the meter work at the first key position?
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Originally posted by Yamaha115OB View PostSo, the company wrote (see above post), that the voltage meter should show 12v on the violet wire to sense battery voltage, and there is voltage when I turn the key to the first position, but the voltage meter does not work...the fuel gauge works. And, the voltage on the blue wire is nothing...which is supposed to be the fuel, but that works. So, it sounds as if the company told me incorrectly about the blue and violet wires. Also, the lights don't work (pink wire) in the gauge. So, I guess I have to trace back to see why voltage isn't getting to the gauge through the blue and pink wires. Also, I didn't actually turn on the engine just because it was getting dark and I figure I'll pick it up again tomorrow...I only turned the key to the first position. Shouldn't I see the meter work at the first key position?
The internal "back light" may be wired into your boats lights and only comes on when both the bow and stern lights are on..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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the wire that goes to tank sender i believe is a variable grd neg from the sender not 12v + dc it really doesn't matter what color it is as long as you DON'T make it battery 12v +Last edited by donsmarine; 07-27-2019, 08:00 AM.
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Originally posted by Yamaha115OB View PostSo, the company wrote (see above post), that the voltage meter should show 12v on the violet wire to sense battery voltage, and there is voltage when I turn the key to the first position, but the voltage meter does not work...the fuel gauge works. And, the voltage on the blue wire is nothing...which is supposed to be the fuel, but that works. So, it sounds as if the company told me incorrectly about the blue and violet wires. Also, the lights don't work (pink wire) in the gauge. So, I guess I have to trace back to see why voltage isn't getting to the gauge through the blue and pink wires. Also, I didn't actually turn on the engine just because it was getting dark and I figure I'll pick it up again tomorrow...I only turned the key to the first position. Shouldn't I see the meter work at the first key position?
Depending on the type of key you have, the first position of the key could be 'accessory'. Meaning, the second position would be the run position which would activate your gauges.
As mentioned, lights most likely won't light up unless you have your running lights (nav) on.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Thanks again, Everybody...I appreciate the notes.
1. So, you're correct, with the Master and Navigation switches on (regardless of the key position), the Blue wire shows 11V...so I am guessing that is the backlight wire, because the backlight works with those switches on.
2. Regardless of key position, off, first (accessory), or second (engine running), there is no voltage on the Pink wire...and the voltage meter doesn't work, so I am guessing Pink is the voltage part of the meter..
3. With the key in first position (accessory), the Violet wire shows 12.5V, and with it in the second position (engine running), there is 14.6V, so my guess is Violet is the fuel gauge because it works.
I traced the Pink and Blue wires back to the next connector, and there is voltage at the Blue wire when I turn on the NAV lights, as there should be, but no voltage on Pink at all...regardless of any key position. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but now I have to keep tracing the Pink wire until I find voltage on it.
But, now I'm confused because why would the voltage on the fuel gauge go up if the engine is running? That should be the battery as the company said.
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