Fuel Line Hose/Primer?

[rodbolt17]

the reason for the clamps, automotive style worm screw clamps tend to loosen as the hose swells and contracts with pressure.
loose hoses on a 35PSI rail could make a bad day.
mix 20 gallons of trash gas with 20n gallons of good gas equals 40 gallons of trash gas.
EVERYTHING that the injectors spray MUST lubricate the system and poor fuel quality leads to excessive deposits on the piston crown and skirt and can and will pop a piston.
I have done this for a living for the better part of the past 30 yrs.
you do as you wish I only advise.

[nola0000]

Thanks rodbolt. Im not questioning you but I like to understand the why behind the what. Gives a fuller picture of the situation and contributes to better understanding in the future.

I took the VST apart and cleaned the chit out of it. Sprayed all the passages out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Took off the EGR looking contraption and did the same there. The float needle was stuck so I busted that apart and sparkled the seat and needle. I have the fuel pump soaking right now in a jar of carburetor cleaner like rodbolt suggested.

I also removed the fuel rail and injectors. I sprayed the carb cleaner in both ends of the injectors and then bench tested them with a 12V PSU. All but one was stuck and needed to be tapped on and rapidly actuated with the 12V. They all broke free and clacked and spit out carb cleaner that I filled them with. I put the injector assembly back together.

As suggested I also cleaned out the remote oil tank and the associated inline strainer so i could refill with fresh oil. There was a lot of fine rock aggregate in both. Not sure how it got there.

Also as suggested I pulled the spark plugs and rotated the flywheel to check for free movement in the pistons. Smooth.

Need to buy water/separator filter bracket. Which is the best?
Need to buy/replace fuel filter and maybe the water impeller. Anything else?

[rodbolt17]

you can use the same jumper leads to test the HP fuel pump.
be aware if it works it sprays stuff at you.
wear eye protection.
I normally soak them in combustion chamber cleaner.
not following the "EGR looking thing" comment.
that stuck injector would not have sprayed fuel.
no fuel no oil.
no oil and bad thingys happens.
next time you watch that race thangy where they is always goin left.
think to yourself.
I wonder if they are using last seasons gas?

[nola0000]

Should I leave the bottom half of the fuel pump submerged in the carb cleaner when I run it so it can cycle through the fluid? Can they be run dry?

Looked in my manual. Yamaha calls the ERG-looking-thing a "pressure regulator".

As soon as I applied voltage to the first injector it made a loud "clicking" noise and spit fluid. All the rest of the injectors made a very faint "clicking" noise or none at all with no fluid being spit out. When I tapped on them they all broke free and started working like the first.

Here is a picture of the VST before I took it apart...

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscbdb8692.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb21ee530.jpg

I wasnt planning on using the gas on my boat. Myabe my riding mower which is an old clunker that was given to me that I restored to working condition. Not much invested in it and its no biggie to pull the carb and clean it.

[99yam40]

Looking at the old fuel and as long there is not trash and water transferred with it, it should not be a problem for the carb on the mower, but may not burn properly and cause problems to pistons, valves, and cylinders as Rodbolt posted.

That is some nasty looking deposits inside the VST on the pump.
May want to send injectors off to have them flow tested and cleaned.
I also wonder if the pump could be sent off with them to be cleaned.

I just reread the 1st of this thread and did not realize this fuel you have is 4 to 5 years old, dump it is my thoughts. Find someone that is burning brush piles or something

[nola0000]

Actually the injectors looked really clean. Not a speck of anything on them. They looked brand new.

[nola0000]

2001 Yamaha VMax 150 OX66...Running Rough? - YouTube

This is mainly for rodbolt. I hope he is still listening but Ill take anyones opinion at this point...

Did pretty much everything everybody told me on this thread and it fired right up. But....it sounds really rough. Maybe its normal for a 2001 2 stroke OX66 as I dont know much about outboards at all and Ive read that OX66s typically run rough.

I uploaded a video of it starting, idling and a quick, light acceleration to about 1500 RPM and then a sustained(about 5 seconds) acceleration and hold at about 2000 RPM. Im scared to take it any higher as it sounds bad. This is a cold start. After I get a few responses to the video and some opinions as to whether this is normal or not and if not what it might be, Ill then post everything Ive done to it to this point and what I still plan to do. Here is the video...

2001 Yamaha VMax 150 OX66...Running Rough? - YouTube

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That engine doesn't sound bad at all... A two stroke engine will not be nearly as smooth idleing/running as a four stroke. That engine runs as good if not better than my neighbors somewhat similar 200 HP, carbed, two stroke Yamaha...

I heard a little misfire halfways thru but that engines been sitting for years.

The water pump stream is a little weak at idle, you may want to put that on your to do list..

Weather permitting, I'd get it on the water and run it.

[nola0000]

Not proclaiming to know anything about 2-cycles but misfire is what it sounds like to me as well.

At what time mark did you hear the misfire?

I changed the water pump. The stream gets strong and straight when I get it out of idle.

I want to get it running perfect in my driveway before I take it out and blow something up from a misfire or lean condition. I have some interesting pictures of the new spark plugs I just put in that Im going to post after I get some more feedback on this video.

Thanks for responding. Im going to run some seafoam through it today and see if that smooths things out.

Keep the responses coming!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not proclaiming to know anything about 2-cycles but misfire is what it sounds like to me as well.

At what time mark did you hear the misfire?

I changed the water pump. The stream gets strong and straight when I get it out of idle.

I want to get it running perfect in my driveway before I take it out and blow something up from a misfire or lean condition. I have some interesting pictures of the new spark plugs I just put in that Im going to post after I get some more feedback on this video.

Thanks for responding. Im going to run some seafoam through it today and see if that smooths things out.

Keep the responses coming!

At 1 minute, 10 seconds while idleing and forward, you eventually raised the RPM's up, the misfire continued for just a little bit then cleared up..

If you have new spark plugs in there now, looking at them should show you if all cylinders firing off.

Seafoam is pretty good stuff. I use it often in my other machines. For my F150, I've been using Yamalube "Ringfree plus additive".
It cleans the fuel system as well as carbon build up in the top end. It isn't cheap but is highly recommended and seems to work very well.. Might be worth the investment..

[nola0000]

Bumpity bump

No one wants to watch my video??

[99yam40]

\ After I get a few responses to the video , Ill then post everything Ive done to it to this point and what I still plan to do.

why not post what you have already done to start out with?
That is what most threads do to get a good reply

[CatCam]

It actually sounded like every other 2-stroke I hear running in somebody's driveway. I really didn't hear anything out of the ordinary. If it were mine I'd put it in the water for some short trips just to make sure everything is okay. Motor looks brand freakin' new!


I'd say launch it and repost back to tell us how it went.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It actually sounded like every other 2-stroke I hear running in somebody's driveway. I really didn't hear anything out of the ordinary. If it were mine I'd put it in the water for some short trips just to make sure everything is okay. Motor looks brand freakin' new!


I'd say launch it and repost back to tell us how it went.

That's exactly what I said in post #23... She's water ready.

Just take it easy initially, pay attention to your idiot lights, pisser and audible alarm. I strongly suspect you'll be fine. And the Seafoam can only help...

[nola0000]

Yall are great! Thanks for the reassurance.

Here is what Ive done so far, please give suggestions....



Replacements/Cleanings/Installations

Replaced high pressure fuel pump in VST and associated rubbers
Replaced high pressure fuel pump filter
Cleaned VST
Cleaned needle valve in VST
Cleaned pressure regulator filter
Cleaned out passages in VST
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced upper low pressure fuel pump
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced water pump kit/impeller
Replaced lower unit oil
Disassembled and cleaned oil reservoir pump
Cleaned O2 sensor
Cleaned and pressure checked oil reservoir check valve
Replaced main 80A fuse
Greased prop shaft
Greased shift linkage to cable connection
Replaced water separator filter and filter head
Replaced fuel line from hull fitting to fuel filter under motor cowl
Designed, built, installed electrical management/load panel, new 4 AWG wire, Blue Sea 5018, 7600, 2312, 7720 x 2(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0360cffd.jpg) AND (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps90a40b4f.jpg)
Installed house(U.S. Battery US 1800 XC2 x 2) and starting(Johnson Controls/Energizer #284195) batteries
Fabricated house battery hold downs
Replaced battery cable (4 AWG) from electrical panel to motor
Installed battery switch (Blue Sea 6011)
Refinished hull (wet sand grit 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, Aquabuff 2000, Collintes #885 Fleetwax x 2 coats)
Rewired trailer with new lights
Installed and greased bearing buddies on trailer
Installed stainless steel thru-hull fittings for bilge and livewell drain
Rewired navigation lights
Rewired bilge and livewell pumps
Replaced livewell drain hose
Installed washdown pump supply hose
Installed switch panel - Blue Sea 8274
Pulled extra circuit to bow for future additions, maybe windlass
Rigged anchor - 10lb. Manson Supreme
Installed new steering cables and helm - Teleflex SS148 NFB Dual 4.2
Installed dual steering adapter tube
Fabricated and installed HDPE backer boards for Yamaha 704 remote control box, gauge panel and switch panel
Installed new inspection hatch for livewell drain thru-hull access



Service Manual Test Procedures Completed(passed or within spec unless noted)

5V reference between orange and red wires @ throttle position sensor = 5.05V
Top cowling hook adjustment
Measured high pressure fuel line = 36psi
Synchronized throttle valves
Adjusted engine idle speed
Checked throttle position sensor voltage = 0.48V
Adjusted remote control shift cable
Adjusted remote control throttle cable
Synchronized oil injection pump
Power trim and tilt air bleed
Power trim and tilt fluid top off
Inspect anodes
Greased lubrication points
Inspect fuel pressure regulator
Inspect fuel injector filters
Inspect fuel check valve
Test lower low-pressure fuel pump negative side pressure
Spark plug cap resistance test = #1(4.33), #2(4.49), #3(4.21), #4(4.68), #5(4.23), #6(4.39)
Measure crank position sensor output peak voltage = 3.7V @ idle, 5.8V @ 1500 RPM
Measure engine cooling water temperature sensor resistance
Inspect thermo switch continuity = left bank – on @ 196, off @ 138, right bank – on @ 186, off @ 135
Inspect oil level sensor/switch continuity
*FAILED* Inspect O2 sensor resistance = 4.5ohms (spec 100ohms)
Inspect O2 sensor output voltage
Inspect atmospheric pressure sensor voltage = 4.04V
*FAILED* Inspect intake air temperature sensor = 2.4V @ 56F (spec 3.4-5.3V @ 68) - subjected to ice cube = voltage down, subjected to hair dryer = voltage up to 3.0V in after ~5min)
*FAILED?* Measure high-pressure fuel pump resistor resistance = 0.5 - 0.8ohms (spec 0.53-0.57ohms)
Inspect emergency switch
Inspect trailer switch continuity
*FAILED?* Cylinder compression test (throttle fully closed, NOT @ WOT, equal # of cranks, engine warm, all plugs pulled)= #1(106), #2(105), #3(110), #4(106), #5(105), #6(95)



Service and Service Manual Test Procedures NOT Completed

Air bleeding oil injection system
Measuring oil pump discharge
Inspect lower unit for air leaks
Fuel injector cleaning and flow testing
Test lower low-pressure fuel pump positive side pressure
Inspect thermostat
Inspect pressure control valve
Did not dig into power head
Did not dig into lower unit
Did not dig into power trim and tilt unit
Measure hydraulic pressure of power trim and tilt unit
Inspect ignition spark
Measure ignition system peak voltage
Measure pulser coil output peak voltage
Inspect fuel injector operating sound
Inspect starter relay
Did not dig into starter motor
Measure the rectifier/regulator output peak voltage
Measure the lighting coil output peak voltage
Inspect power trim/tilt realy
Measure trim sensor resistance
Self diagnostic codes



Also...

Should I be that concerned about the #6 cylinder compression?

When I measured the high pressure fuel pump resistor my DMM was jumping around. It was reading 0.5 on the low end but it jumped around a lot as high as 1.1. Is this in spec or not? Should it hold at 0.53-0.57?

What do yall think of the O2 sensor? (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6f13c980.jpg) AND (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0d5ccbcf.jpg) AND (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6a90a1de.jpg)

And a big concern of mine , what do yall think of these new spark plugs I just pulled and checked after idling a lil bit? (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps61fe8131.jpg) AND (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfc125624.jpg)
See how black that first one is? The others are all similar.