Changing out water pump - question on shift rod

[IFish4Tuna]

Hi - I'm about to do this job tomorrow on my 1999 250's. Question on the shift rod. I do have the manual, but it doesn't address this.

Will the lower unit drop when I undo the housing bolts, or does the shift rod also need to be disconnected somehow? It looks like it should simply slide down. It looks like it's a gear driven mechanism like the drive shaft. I'm trying to do as much upfront investigation of this job as possible. I need to catch the low tide tomorrow. I'm going to be doing this job on the telephone polls at low tide at the town dock. So time will be of the essense. Anyone got a time estimate on how long it will take assuming all the right tools and some level of competence by the mechanic (me).

I'm hoping for an hour per engine assuming I don't lose bolts in the water while removing them... [img]smile.gif[/img]

Thanks.
Ed

[pjlexydaddy]

I have 2006 300hp which I think its still almost the same lower unit as yours.
I simply removed the 6 bolts plus the zinc then the bolt under the zinc. The unit slid right down with ease.
DO NOT, DO NOT, Move the shift rod. You will need to figure out where the neutral position is if you move it. you may want to mark it.
The waterpump bolts are removed and the housing slides right up the shaft.
2 notes- Mark the position of trim tab zinc and shift rod.
Estimate- 1 hour per engine.

Print out the parts diagram from this website and bring it with you. It always helps to know what parts belong where.
Good luck,
JOhn

[IFish4Tuna]

Thanks - good tips. I'll let ya know how I do...

[nosocks20]

I changed both my water pumps this spring. Remove the zinc and the six bolts. More than likely the shift rod will hold the lower unit up in place because of lack of grease. It took me a while to acually drop the unit after all bolts removed.

Most IMPORTANTLY put the engine in forward before removing the lower unit. The manual tells you to keep in neutral but more than likely you will turn the prop which will change the shaft position. When you go to put the lower unit back the shaft spline will go up to a point and then just rotate the prop and the lower unit will slid up to the correct position. YOu will be left with only a half an inch which the bolts will take care of.

[IFish4Tuna]

Short story fixed both pumps.

Long story - the pump kits on these big engines do NOT come with all the parts. Make sure you ask your dealer what does and does not come w/ it when you do this job.

I had to do this job at low tide on the rail road ties the lobster guys put in to work on their boats. By the time the tide dropped low enough for me to get the first lower unit off, and dismantle it. I realized that the kit does not supply parts 7 & 8 (collar & spacer). #8 is a cheap shitty piece of plastic that's very difficult to seperate from #7 without breaking. You'd assume it would be in the kit because it's so breakable. Anyway it wasn't. I ended up having to drive down and back to the dealer to get the damn things. By the time I got back 2+ hours later, I had missed low tide, and was now working against the clock to get the unit back together and mounted. AND THEN do the other engine.

By the time I finished, I was up to my neck in the water (this is a no shitter). I just barely had the ability to stand in the water and bolt on the zinc tabs.

What a day. Good thing the water temp was above 65 because otherwise, I couldn't have taken the cold. I was in the water for 4 hour straight.

BTW - Dealer recommends changing at least every 2 years.

Good advice on marking the shift, and the zinc tabs.

No issues w/ the shift rod. It's a gear like the drive shaft. Those lower units are heavy bastards though. Final recommendation use gloves if you opt not to remove the propeller. Those Stainless Steel props will cut your arm open if you mis handle them.

Ed

[Ken]

Ed,
You are now the "In-Water Yamaha Repair Expert" [img]smile.gif[/img] !!!
Man, I don't know how you did it under those conditions - I have trouble doing a water pump repair in an enclosed garage and shop [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] .
Yeah, I agree with you on the parts - first water pump I did, I broke the little nylon spacer. And, yes, the spacer and collar should be a part of the kit. What gets me, is that Yamaha includes another set of stainless housing bolts - but what the heck for ?
Oh, well, glad you got 'em fixed. Maybe next time you can do it with the boat and YOU out of the water [img]smile.gif[/img] .
Good luck,
Ken K