Hi all! My first post...so I just purchased a key West with a 90...it was throwing temp alarm only at wot...temp was 188, even on all cylinders. So this was my first attempt to change the water pump on an outboard. Short story I ended up breaking a portion of the bottom plate in the lower unit. The water pump was rebuilt and reassembled when I realized I had a extra gasket and o ring...fml. I think the plate I broke is the bearing housing assembly. Yes, I attempted this only watching YouTube and don't own a manual yet because it's a Frankenstein motor.... How bad is it....tell the truth
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That's the thing the mid section evidently is a late 80's the power head and lower unit are late 90's, according to local Yamaha guy. The transom mount has a part #indicating its a 70hp motor.../Frankenstein I broke the bottom of that plate off...it was so corroded it already wasn't solid...any solutions? I have lots of tools at my disposal. Thanks
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Probably blocked cooling passages, very common once they get a bit of age, only remedy is to remove the head and clean it out, and any other covers that allow access, broken bolts are going to kill you....you can try all the vinegar, salt away, acid and anything else people will suggest, but most simply do not work.
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Is the first picture part of the water pump or is there a "cup" that goes above it (that the impeller sits inside)?
Obviously, that part can be replaced...
Now if the housing (LU) under it is damaged, (if not too corroded), can be cleaned up and have a TIG welder build it back up. Check for ANY hairline cracks, etc..
You can clean up the rough weld with a dremel and a file (and save some Machine work $ for someone else).
**I'd do THIS repair first as you know it's bad...
Should the overheat continue, agreed below, the head probably needs to come off for salt removal around the cylinders and head.
.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 09-26-2017, 06:25 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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seal housing corrosion is quite common. we stock them.
the water pump kit comes with the gasket and housing oring. never gets used.
why it does not come with seals as well is a mystery.
you carefully pry up the housing,using oxy/acetlyne as nesassary and replace it.
I do 10-20 a year.
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seeing that there is already the broken part still wedged in there, all you can do is try to remove it the best you can and try to keep as much debris out of the gear case and bearings.
maybe drill and tap small holes in it to screw machine screw into to pry up on
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Alright alright alright so one mechanic suggested me find a used one and not mess with it and another told me they could try to drill it out and break off in pieces but don't count on that working, so he wanted to take out the prop shaft and seals to remove pinion nut and basically hammer out the drive shaft and broken plate that way..."about $400"... so I bought a bunch of harbor freight bits went to town and shazam I was able to break all the old pieces out with no further damage ... so I now need the seal kit for the drive shaft now...the ones with the springs in them. Any of y'all know what it's called? Also... what is the best repair manual for Yamahas ? Muchas appreciation
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Good for you!!!!
It's called a: HOUSING, WATER PUMP
Part #30: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html
(From a US version 1998, 70HP) The two seals and o-ring are below it...
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.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 09-27-2017, 06:41 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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