T60 TLR shutting off

[Pacific76]

Hey there, recommendations/ assistance on new issue that started with my T60. Happened once/twice over 5-6 trips but now has increased to almost every runtime.

Starting and idle are issue free but problem starts during travel wether at port or full speed the engine turns off after studdering a few times. Will start back up immediately but most times requires bulb prime to keep it idle. If I run and prime the bulb without stopping, it seems to run fine. Have two tanks, same issue with both (air vent open on both)

To me this sounds like a fuel pump issue and will be purchasing the following pump:
6C5-24410-00-00 YAMAHA FUEL PUMP ASSY

Any recommendations or other items to check other than just my fuel intake? Maybe fuel hose collapsing? Spark plugs?

Motor:
2011 Yamaha High Thrust T60 TLR

Thanks

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like you probably already found it.

You can pull your current pump apart and check the diaphragms just to confirm...

Here's a link showing the actual break down of the pump:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html



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[Pacific76]

Sounds like you probably already found it.

You can pull your current pump apart and check the diaphragms just to confirm...

Here's a link showing the actual break down of the pump:
2006 and Later T60TLR Yamaha Outboard FUEL 1 Diagram and Parts



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Thank you. While waiting for new pump, I opened up the old one and did not see any tears in them that were obvious. Just noticed it was mostly full of dark dirty fuel

[99yam40]

makes me wonder what the fuel in the tanks looks like also

[TownsendsFJR1300]

makes me wonder what the fuel in the tanks looks like also

Plus 1 ^^

Might be worth the Op's time to drain and inspect the fuel.

Just a little water or crap of course will make the engine run crappy..



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[throrope]

makes me wonder what the fuel in the tanks looks like also

I'm thinking same, especially since your issues are getting worse.

Our ethanol fuels are a bugger. Old fuel can phase separate, ethanol falls out of the gasoline and collects at the bottom of the tank. This happens because ethanol has an affinity for water and can pull it out of humidity. While many materials are rated for 10% ethanol, I rarely see your typical fuel hose and components rated for greater concentrations that occur with phase separation. When the ethanol, a solvent, eats materials, it often collects in the carbs.

As to your carbs, once fouled, I doubt any amount of cleaner will bring them back. Unlike fuel injection, carbs use the low pressures generated by engine vacuum to move fuel from bowl through jets to engine. Any clutter causes issues. I suggest you loosen the carb bowl screws and watch them drain. If they don't, that's a tattle tale for clutter and they likely need a rebuild.

Since you have issues, if your fuel hose is more than 5 years old or you don't know how old, I suggest you consider a complete swap-out.

I went one further and used 3/8" copper for all straight lengths and short sections of hose at the tank and motor using flair/barb connections. This makes routine replacement a 10 minute job for 10 bucks. I also remove all fuel from the boat and leave the tanks open and upside down to dry between trips. For me no fuel means none to go bad.

[Pacific76]

I have drained both tanks into open bucket for viewing (gas is only couple weeks old) and only thing seen what appeared to be sliver of teflon tape and a few grains of dark sand. Not bad for old tanks? Anyways I have replaced those two with one single tank (in my original mod plans anyway). Along with the complete new fuel pump, water/fuel separator (built-in) and in-line fuel filter elements between the two have been replaced.

I had cut back 6-7" of existing fuel hose on each end and both appear holding up very well without any breakdown inside from what I can see. Since I don't know the age it will get replaced too. Haven't had luck finding 3/8" fuel hose at auto supply stores. Guess We$t Marine will have to do

Carb drain as described above will be done next as well. If it does drain and looks decent, would you recommend a seafoam treatment before the next sea trial?

[Pacific76]

Would it be recommended to install an additional water/fuel separator in addition to the small built-in under the cowling? If so what micron should it be?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have drained both tanks into open bucket for viewing (gas is only couple weeks old) and only thing seen what appeared to be sliver of teflon tape and a few grains of dark sand. Not bad for old tanks? Anyways I have replaced those two with one single tank (in my original mod plans anyway). Along with the complete new fuel pump, water/fuel separator (built-in) and in-line fuel filter elements between the two have been replaced.

I had cut back 6-7" of existing fuel hose on each end and both appear holding up very well without any breakdown inside from what I can see. Since I don't know the age it will get replaced too. Haven't had luck finding 3/8" fuel hose at auto supply stores. Guess We$t Marine will have to do

Carb drain as described above will be done next as well. If it does drain and looks decent, would you recommend a seafoam treatment before the next sea trial?

DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE FUEL line. Marine specific fuel line IS CRITICAL. It won't fall apart internally with ethanol....

Yes it's more expensive, but you won't have it fall apart down the road with ethanol.

As for Seafoam, it certainly won't hurt.

Hopefully it runs well, if not, I see carb cleanings.

Good luck...

[Pacific76]

DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE FUEL line. Marine specific fuel line IS CRITICAL. It won't fall apart internally with ethanol....

Yes it's more expensive, but you won't have it fall apart down the road with ethanol.

As for Seafoam, it certainly won't hurt.

Hopefully it runs well, if not, I see carb cleanings.

Good luck...

I did not know about difference in hoses. Thank you sir, saved me from an error there

[Pacific76]

Update

New tank has been installed. New West Marine gas hose (new fittings outboard/tank sides). Preparing for new sea trial this weekend.

Note: I'm very limited in outboard skills so please help me understand regarding the above carburetor drain task.
This is a Fuel Injected motor model (T60 TLR). Meaning not carborated correct?

Should I be pulling/draining all injectors? I have not started on those yet

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #30 is the drain to your VST:
2006 and Later T60TLR Yamaha Outboard FUEL INJECTION PUMP 1 Diagram and Parts

It where the high pressure pump resides.

And yes, either carberated or fuel injected.

I personally would drain that, catch what comes out (specifically water, etc).
Maybe prime (squeeze primer bulb)a couple of times to get all crap out.

If clean, I'd proceed with the sea trial.

You asked earlier about another fuel filter, such as a transom mount.
Most folks, especially with larger boats/engines have them. I would recommend installing one. I have a water separator with a see thru lower so you can see water IN THE FILTER (and drain) BEFORE it gets to the engine...

[Pacific76]

Part #30 is the drain to your VST:
2006 and Later T60TLR Yamaha Outboard FUEL INJECTION PUMP 1 Diagram and Parts

It where the high pressure pump resides.

And yes, either carberated or fuel injected.

I personally would drain that, catch what comes out (specifically water, etc).
Maybe prime (squeeze primer bulb)a couple of times to get all crap out.

If clean, I'd proceed with the sea trial.

You asked earlier about another fuel filter, such as a transom mount.
Most folks, especially with larger boats/engines have them. I would recommend installing one. I have a water separator with a see thru lower so you can see water IN THE FILTER (and drain) BEFORE it gets to the engine...

Within the diagram link you sent, to clarify do you mean drain plug #13? I don't see a part #30

Thanks for the separator pic. I like the clean setup you've done there. What micro filter would you recommend?

Edit: never mind I see the micron now

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, it is part #13, my boo...

It shouldn't be to hard to access. I'd put a rag under it so it doesn't drop into the "dark abyss"...

Been a very, very long week...

[dray0151]

Yes, it is part #13, my boo...

It shouldn't be to hard to access. I'd put a rag under it so it doesn't drop into the "dark abyss"...
.

That dark abyss is the devil at work and hard to get anything out of!!!! I've had to dig several times.