F225 gearcase plug and washer

[99yam40]

real hard to put anything on clean threads on the plug holes with the lower unit lube coming out

[boscoe99]

I just got a hate on for all slotted screws...always have. Up here in Canuckastan we don't use them very much....we got robertson head screws, much better.

I have replaced all the engine case bolts on several motorcycles with Allen head bolts ( got rid of the phillips) and no more impact driver is required....again much better.

Only thing that I find to be worse than a slotted screw is one with a phillips recess. Hate those damn things.

I second your vote for a hex recess in the drain/fill screw. Only problem I see is the backyardigans who believe if proper torque is good then a bunch more torque will be even better. Helps with the helicoil sales however.

Happy birthday up there. Don't dwell too long on summer. Your fall will be here in about a month!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

real hard to put anything on clean threads on the plug holes with the lower unit lube coming out

I use a Yamabond on the oil drain plug on the bike (just a touch) and it's safety wired as well.

Once it's drained FULLY, trim the engine up, a squirt of brake fluid, let it dry, same for the drain plug, apply sealer, works fine. The bikes drain plug is a bit larger too. Been doing this for literally years...

*Just for S&G's sometime ago, I replaced the LU fluid and tightened by hand/feel. I went back with the correct tip, put my inch torque wrench on it to see how close it was to spec's.. I'm admittedly lighter on bolts (tightening by hand) than probably most others.

The initial install was too light. Definitely needed tightening, not a-lot, but by hand, too light.

I'd take an allen head screw with a good inch torque wrench any day...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I second your vote for a hex recess in the drain/fill screw. Only problem I see is the backyardigans who believe if proper torque is good then a bunch more torque will be even better. Helps with the helicoil sales however.

Why do you assume (and your a "backyardian" as well as 99Yam and most others here, myself included) that folks would over-tighten with a torque wrench, or just by hand? (Sequoia and RB, I believe are the ONLY Yamaha certified mechanic's here)

Because of the extra leverage?

I don't know anyone who would intentionally over-tighten a drain bolt in an aluminum case...

If they did, they need a heli coil kit!

[boscoe99]

Why do you assume (and your a "backyardian" as well as 99Yam and most others here, myself included) that folks would over-tighten with a torque wrench, or just by hand? (Sequoia and RB, I believe are the ONLY Yamaha certified mechanic's here)

Because of the extra leverage?

I don't know anyone who would intentionally over-tighten a drain bolt in an aluminum case...

If they did, they need a heli coil kit!

I don't assume or believe that folks who use a torque wrench will over tighten a fastener. They are taking the time to use the correct tool and based on that I presume they want to do the procedure correctly according to the manual.

I do believe however that folks who tighten fasteners without the use of a torque wrench will over tighten them. Studies have proven time and time again that the tendency is to over tighten fasteners. In the case of a gear case drain screw the thought process seems to be "I can't afford for this screw to come loose so I am going to make sure that it is tightened really really well." If the screw has an internal drive mechanism (torx, allen head, posi-drive, etc,) it makes it easier for more torque to be given to the screw than if just a flat head or Phillips screw driver is used.

[boscoe99]

[boscoe99]

I don't know anyone who would intentionally over-tighten a drain bolt in an aluminum case...t!

You don't know the folks that I have known.

Happens all too often. Also for the oil pan drain plug.

If a little bit of tightening is fine then too much should be just right. I don't want that plug to come loose.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, makes sense... I'm one of the few that under torques (W/O a torque wrench), very close, but definitely NOT over..

I did strip one M5 bolt on the bike (steering head nut, aluminum, tapped) that needed to be super tight of the GPS mount would move.

That, I heli-coiled as was able to sufficiently tighten it as to not move (a bit more than would normally be called for)

As noted above, you can see the custom aluminium nut (large,at the base-triple clamp). Then the aluminum arm come off that to the mount, then the weight of the GPS. Thus you can see why (space is VERY LIMITED), why (besides stripping), it's way stronger than aluminum threads alone. And it does NOT move(red loctite as well)

[pstephens46]

You don't know the folks that I have known.

Happens all too often. Also for the oil pan drain plug.

If a little bit of tightening is fine then too much should be just right. I don't want that plug to come loose.

Jiffy Lube specs on oil pan drain bolts are in the neighborhood of 80 lb ft. Based on working behind them... had to use a gd breaker bar

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You don't know the folks that I have known.

Happens all too often. Also for the oil pan drain plug.

If a little bit of tightening is fine then too much should be just right. I don't want that plug to come loose.

I actually tighten my drain plug to 12 ft lbs. Manual calls for 20.

The EXACT same drain plug, aluminum block, on the bike-Yamaha, calls for 30 FT lbs. that see's 12 as well. Why the difference, I gather is a typo..

It's NOT going anywhere.