checking regulator/rectifier and lighting coil

[dray0151]

On my F115TLRC the battery voltage periodically drops to about 11.5 volts according to the diagnostic readout I obtained the other day. I think this has maybe been two or three times that I know of, but the readout I got
Thursday only showed one time at 172 hours on the ECM, yes the 2004 motor only shows 178 hours, but I don't have anyway to know if the ECM was ever replaced before I bought the boat. I have noticed the Volt gauge every once in awhile will show charging below 12v. Usually after motor is stopped and restarted to move the boat it has always charged at normal rate around 14v. In the service repair manual it talks about a 6 pin harness needed to check the lighting coil and or rectifier? On one of these threads I thought it was talking about just checking the wires with just a volt/ohm meter? Is this possible without buying the $100 six pin harness and how is it done? The diagnostic readout attached was done as a stationary test not and active one. This was my first attempt with the software and was just looking at what was going to show up.

Boscoe or Rodbolt your very detailed knowledge is much appreciated!!!

[99yam40]

hook voltmeter to battery posts.
if you get a low reading the start chasing it back to the motor with meter
stick pin or Paper clip( as rod says) slipped in the the back side of connector where the wire goes in(without damaging the wire insulation) works well to hook you meter to

[fairdeal]

very interesting.
Rodbolt occasionally reports difficulties accessing photos or other attached files -
so I am posting here the "Data Logger" section of your .pdf:

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[pstephens46]

His battery was reading 12.2 on the info provided on printout. Might be hard to crank that low. May be the result of his reported problem.

[rodbolt17]

there is definitely an issue with battery voltage.
most likely in the battery or keyswitch or wireing.
the ECU does NOT monitor regulator output.
it monitors the voltage on the yellow ign on wire from the keyswitch.
that voltage comes from the starter terminal typically.
sometimes from the start solenoid.
that feeds the red lead to the keyswitch.

I would start by checking all grounds and feeds.

the part number for the temporary checking tool is MAR-PAPER-CL-IP.

[dray0151]

there is definitely an issue with battery voltage.
most likely in the battery or keyswitch or wireing.
the ECU does NOT monitor regulator output.
it monitors the voltage on the yellow ign on wire from the keyswitch.
that voltage comes from the starter terminal typically.
sometimes from the start solenoid.
that feeds the red lead to the keyswitch.

I would start by checking all grounds and feeds.

the part number for the temporary checking tool is MAR-PAPER-CL-IP.

Rodbolt I don't see this part number anywhere or are you being facetious and mean a paper clip inserted into wiring harness etc as mentioned before??

[rodbolt17]

good catch.
it is a simple standard paper clip.

but ya did look for it .

[dray0151]

[QUOTE=rodbolt17;139634]there is definitely an issue with battery voltage.
most likely in the battery or keyswitch or wireing.
the ECU does NOT monitor regulator output.
it monitors the voltage on the yellow ign on wire from the keyswitch.
that voltage comes from the starter terminal typically.
sometimes from the start solenoid.
that feeds the red lead to the keyswitch.

I would start by checking all grounds and feeds.

the part number for the temporary checking tool is MAR-PAPER-CL-IP.

Rodbolt/Boscoe

Finally got to check the stator/rectifier on this engine. This was the issue of low charging and the YDS static printout showing batt voltage at 12.2.

Rodbolt I decided to bite the bullet and buy a six pin test clip part number 90890-06790, I just really don't like sticking things into electrical points!!!!

Anyway the readings I get for the lighting coil @1500 rpm was only 19.4-19.7 way below the 37 the service manual says. At 3500 rpm got 21.5 to 22.4 again way below the 89 the manual says. This was "loaded" of course with the clip together and the red output wire disconnected in the clip as the manual states. These readings were white to white on the three white wires.

On the rectifier I got 14.9 @1500 rpm above the 12.5 from the manual and @3500 rpm it was 15.30 which is above the 13.0 in the manual. this was the red to black wires.

Again are these values in the service manual only minimums as Boscoe I think has said or someone said before?

My multimeter with the DVA attached was set to DC for the lighting coils

Again after testing and running the motor for the tests the rectifier felt quite hot to the touch.

[dray0151]

Tried to post this info yesterday for some help but the reply went to a moderator for approval? Not sure why but I hope this one gets through.

Rodbolt I decided to go ahead and buy a diagnostic 6 pin clip to check the stator/rectifier with as opposed to sticking something in a electrical wire plug, I really didn't want to maybe damage something.

Anyway results for the stator were apparently below the minimum in the service manual. Volt reading @ 1500 rpm only19.4v, @3500 rpm only 22.4 v. This was of course "loaded" through the diagnostic six pin clip. Multimeter was set to DC with a DVA attached.

Checked the rectifier same loaded, @1500 rpm 14.9 v, @3500 rpm 15.2 v which according to my service manual copy is good. All the while of course my voltage gauge was showing a good charge.

Could the low voltage from the Stator lighting coil be causing the regulator/rectifier to be overworking and thereby cause the periodic low charge rate I have seen on my dash voltage meter and also the heat build up I have noticed when touching the rectifier?

Another question I have was with the ignition switch off, I tried to check the continuity off the rectifier through the 6 pin clip that was attached and no matter if black was on ground and R-W, R-W, R-W showed just over 3 ohms then if I went red to ground and B-W on all three I still got ohms in the 3 range. Is this a bad rectifier or am I not checking the continuity correctly.

[FabricGATOR]

Did you unplug the rectifier when you tested it?
I think try your continuity test again on the rectifier with it disconnected. It should be three diodes that allow continuity in one direction but not the other.

Someone should take pictures of the MAR-PAPER-CL-IP tool in use so everyone can see how to connect it properly. I believe that you carefully insert it into the bottom of the connector where each individual wire has the round silicon seal, so as to access the contact without damaging the watertight seal of the connector.

[fairdeal]

this is how I've used MAR-PAPER-CL-IP

[boscoe99]

Output of the lighting coil should be checked with the device "unloaded". A load will pull the voltage down.

A periodic low voltage issue IMO would more likely be the result of a poor electrical connection(s).

Here is an update to the test procedures:

[dray0151]

Boscoe thanks for the reply. Are the minimum values in your updated manual the same for my F115 tlrc? The values for the lighting coil are slightly higher than the copy of the manual I have had. I will try again tomorrow to do the lighting coil, the rectifier seemed to be okay to me if the 12.5 and th3 13.5 in the manual were minimum values. And I assume the rectifier you check with the clip connected but the red lead wire disconnected.

Oh and my 6 pin clip was only 49 and I think I'll be able to find it later since it will stay with all my tools.

[FabricGATOR]

this is how I've used MAR-PAPER-CL-IP

Yeah buddy, just gently slip it in, and slide it back out without any damage what so ever. Nice photo FairDeal....

A $hundred for a test harness that consists of a few connectors, a few hanks of wire, and five butt splices would put me over budget on my electrical repair, not to mention the time it would take for me to locate that thing I paid a hundred for the next time I needed it. A paper clip or two I can afford. I bet RodBolt has one of those floating around the shop somewhere but he still reaches for this tool instead.

[dray0151]

Boscoe on a previuos thread a CatCam had responded that the regulator rectifier on a fourstroke F80 should run an operating range of about 160 degress F. Not sure where that came from but would the F115 TLRC run the same or maybe hotter as it is a larger engine? Maybe Rodbolt has at some point tested the temp on some rectifiers. Mine runs at 1500rpms about 180 degrees at the top of the unit and about 170 degrees at the bottom, this is with an IR temp gun.

Wondered if anyone had seen that. Not sure how to get that thread post onto this reply?