Engine dies a moment after on plane. Fuel restriction?

[FabricGATOR]

Good morning folks,

I, being the helpful bloke that I am, have been assisting my neighbor get his newly acquired 2005 Caravelle Key Largo center console boat ready for his introduction to Florida inshore boating.
It is powered by a 2005 Yamaha 150TXRD (carburetor). 1st was to get the engine to crank. It turns out that the factory battery wire was internally corroded and just not letting the starter turn the engine over due to the high resistance of that wire. Fixed. The engine starts, idles, runs and looks great.

After a half hours running easy in the river, we got up on a plane for a minute or so before we experienced an unexpected loss of speed/power. I pumped the bulb and it went flat (internal suction/ restriction)

Now, after changing the spin on fuel filter, I am still noting a restriction in the fuel hose from the installed tank to the filter housing. I imagined (while working on it at the ramp, in the sun) that floating debris and crud had the pickup tube screed clogged and tried to blow on the hose that is connected directly to the tank that I disconnected from the inlet side of the spin on filter housing. I encountered great resistance, even with the fuel tank fill cap opened so my hot air (breath) could be vented out.

I seem to remember that the EPA or Coast Guard had mandated some check valve so if a boat were to sink it would inhibit the pollution of the waters. I am not familiar with this and I wonder if it could be my problem. A defective check valve?

I have an aircraft fuel pump that I use for transfer and I purchased a sending unit gasket set. I am going to empty the tank and take a look see.

Any advice as to anything else I should pay attention to or check?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not sure about the valve thingy, But I would think at the pick up end, there isn't anything. *It's technically "sealed" when hooked up to the rest of the engine.

I think the vent/overflow is at the filler end...

Sounds like that pick up is indeed clogged...

If you have a Mity vac, you could put that on the line from the tank, BEFORE the filter and see if fuel flows(should) or it's a solid clog...

Hopefully the tank, or at least the PU area is easily accessible...

You should be able to simply use the primer bulb / line (not hooked to the engine), and pump / siphon fuel to an empty tank below the level of the main tank. Once primed, you shouldn't have to do anything but keep swapping empty tanks...

That is, IF it isn't clogged.. Should flow with the cap closed, open if it doesn't but the issue will probably still be there...

[FabricGATOR]

Thank you Scott,
Indeed, my thought are that it is probably restricted at the tank pickup. I imagine there is a coarse finger screen to catch any large debris from entering the feed line.

There is a Pie-Eye but it is really only lined up with the sending unit and the fill, the vent, and the fuel engine feed connection is there within reach.

I remember reading something on here years ago about an antisiphon valve that some suggested to remove and other said "NOOO! you need to have that for safety..."

Just like people are adamant about having GFIC outlets on the dock, kitchen, bathroom. Before the GFI outlet I never heard of anyone getting zapped by an outlet on the dock unless they really deserved it.

It has a white plastic tank and in order to remove the tank the hull will have to be split as there is no apparent access. I will try several things including talking the owner into running the old portable 6 gallon tanks before it comes to that...

[FabricGATOR]

and yes Scott, start the siphon with the primer bulb and let it flow out of the trailered boat by gravity... In theory at least.

With my indication of the flat primer bulb, I am almost certain there is a restriction from the bottom of the tank to the filter. Maybe the hose delaminated and collapsed.

Although, I remember 30 some odd years ago, I was 17 and on an OMC primer bulb, the shuttle had freed itself from the check valve housing, went into the bulb, turned itself around, and went back into the check valve housing. causing me to have an artificial hard bulb and I couldn't get the engine to start. Dad figured out what happened, we took it apart, flipped the check in the valve, and reassembled it with a jubilee clamp.

[boscoe99]

The check valve that you mention I suspect is what is called the anti-siphon valve. The valve is attached to the outlet of the fuel tank. Were the fuel hose to dip below the level of the fuel in the tank, and should said hose break, then gasoline would start flowing from the hose into the bilge. The gasoline would be siphoned from the gas tank. Thus the name "anti-siphon" valve since it prevents a siphon from occurring.

Anti-siphon valves are not mandated if the fuel hose stays above the level of the fuel tank since if the hose breaks a siphon cannot occur. Gasoline would simply flow back to the tank. Anti-siphon valves are not mandated if and when a boat is powered by an outboard motor.

I personally would not own a fuel tank with an anti-siphon valve if the boat has an outboard motor installed. Too mucho problemo with the damn things and the possibility of any benefit is all but moot.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would run the separate tank just for S&G's, the engine should be fine.

I have a spare primer bulb on the boat and one in the garage(for working in the garage). Both are known to be good..

I drained my tank using the on-board primer bulb (Yamaha brand) about 1.5 years ago after simply un-hooking the line from the transom filter.

It drained easily after a couple of pumps...

Got about 35 gallons out and re-measured after re-filling with the Yamaha fuel gauge. documented, IE 2 "dashes" = 15 gallons, 3 dashes= 20 gallons and so forth. Mine just happens to be dead nuts on, all original. Nice to know EXACTLY how the gauge reads, so when re-filling, you may want to document..
I have that "spec sheet" attached inside the glove box so I know for certain how much fuel I'm carrying...


Also, Quote: " in order to remove the tank the hull will have to be split", do you mean a large, floor access plate has to come up?

If it's much more than that, I'd be looking at putting an access hatch in the floor directly above that area.

Something like this which sits pretty flush: http://beckson.com/catalog/popup_ima...3e0830d22d04b1