1994 200 txrs head anodes ..which way...

[MID FL CAP]

Hello , repairing a spare engine for my Grady Sailfish, was replacing the anodes on the block, they have a tit if you will on each end on one side, was wondering do they go in or out from block. I had to dremel the old ones out. Look on parts break down, can not tell how they should go, or if really matters how they go. Thanks.

[cpostis]

Hello , repairing a spare engine for my Grady Sailfish, was replacing the anodes on the block, they have a tit if you will on each end on one side, was wondering do they go in or out from block. I had to dremel the old ones out. Look on parts break down, can not tell how they should go, or if really matters how they go. Thanks.

I's been a while since I replaced mine (same part # as yours). But, I don't recall any tits on mine and not mattering which way installed. I see on the image below there is a slight projection on one lower right side portion of the anode as well, I don't recall that as well on my originals or replacements.

Don't take this as gospel, I would think you install with the tits facing outward.

Other members?

[IMG]anode by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[99yam40]

looks like the hole for screw is counter sunk.
is it that way on both sides or just one?
that may help you decide?

[cpostis]

Got me thinking and I just had to find my old anodes. At least mine were countersunk on one side. No tits on either side, did have the protrusion on one end.

Unless they changed design/configuration, it would be "counter sunk screw" end outward.

Here's a pic of my old anodes. Note they were someone corroded away, maybe the tits were there. Sure don't remember them on the replacements though.

[IMG]Anodes.1. by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[robert graham]

Looks like the tits are just casting marks from when they were poured...

[MID FL CAP]

Thank you for the info, that is what I needed in order to move forward.

[cpostis]

One more thing as point of information, the screws that mounted the anodes were JIS head (not Phillips) at the time I changed mine, I did not have a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver for them. I used a hand impact driver with as best a fit Phillips tip. Came free with a couple of light taps. JIS screws are sometimes identified with a dimple on the screw head (see pic, note the dot on the top of head).

My motor has many fasteners with JIS heads. I have since bought a set of JIS screwdrivers that make loosening these fasteners a lot easier.

[IMG]Anode 2 by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[99yam40]

As I said in that other thread on JIS screw heads, if all you have is the Phillips drivers, grind a little off the tip so the tip does not bottom out too soon and allows the driver to grab more of the sides.

I did not think they would have countersunk both sides removing more metal and costing more in machining if not needed

[cpostis]

[QUOTE=99yam40;131625]As I said in that other post thread on JIS screw heads, if all you have is the Phillips drivers, grind a little off the tip so the tip does not bottom out too soon and allows the driver to grab more of the sides.

Agreed 99Yam!
In my other post on another thread, I said the JIS screwdriver will stand up (Unlike some NFL players) when a JIS screwdriver is placed vertical in the JIS screw head. As mentioned in the other post, Phillips head screw drivers are designed to "cam out". Besides the shallower depth of the slots at the point, the JIS screws and mating screw drivers have more square interior angles within the slots.

So, I decided to do a little test. Look at the following image.

[IMG]JIS Screwdriver by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]JIS-vs-phillips-screws by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

The JIS screw is to the left with the JIS screwdriver/bit inserted. It stands up straight, tight, and perfectly vertical. I tried the same with a ground down Phillips head bit (middle of pic), would not even stay in place at any angle. Tried the same with Phillips head screw in the right of the image with a standard Phillips head bit, same result, would not stay in place.

Point being, I recommend to someone that has numerous JIS screws within the motor to have JIS screwdrivers. Believe me they work so much better in the JIS screws and avoid stripping JIS screw heads. I use it most on my VST tank.

Dealers choice. I just opened a Heineken bottle with a Bic lighter, did I get the job done (excuse me, let me take a slug)?.... OK,,yes I did. Could it have been easier with the right "tool" (excuse me, another slug)?... Yes!

[rodbolt17]

replacing those anodes is simply a monumental waste of time and money.\
about the third time they dry off and get that white coating they cease to be anodes and are now just along for a ride for the next ten-12 years.

[cpostis]

replacing those anodes is simply a monumental waste of time and money.\
about the third time they dry off and get that white coating they cease to be anodes and are now just along for a ride for the next ten-12 years.

Agreed, after what I have found after I pulled my heads. I did take a look at where these are used throughout Yamaha's model years and line ups. They are used anywhere from 1984 to current and 9.9 HP to 350 HP. Most are used attached to cylinder block under heads, some are attached to outer exhaust cover, and others are used within rectifier/regulators.

Maybe mineral deposits in salt water use renders them useless in those conditions yet if used in fresh water they are useful?

Now Yamaha's engineers must have put them in for a reason for this period of time and nearly their entire line ups? But, you never know.

But did get me thinking about my water cooled rectifier/regulator. When I disassembled my motor, scraped and cleaned deposits from the water cooling passages, I was thinking about the R/R. Wondered if I should pull it and check/clean deposits, never did. Should that be a maintenance item on older motors that show signs of deposits? I would think you could avoid damage/overheating of the R/R. Members have said "T/T water would not be heated, warmer than entering cooling water" I have noticed that my T/T water definitely becomes warmer, through my R/R?

[99yam40]

most of the TTs did not run thru a RR cooler, so take that to mind.
And I believe on some motors the water that ran thru the RR cooler does not exit the TT.

I would think most Yamaha TTs may have warm water exiting but not hot

I am sure there is some heat transferred over to the cooling water on yours, but do not think it would be much at low RPMs because the RR should not be getting much current run thru it at idle.
I coming off of higher RPMs there would be residual heat being removed.

need to trace the water flow to see where it flows to

[boscoe99]

My mine a Torq please.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

But did get me thinking about my water cooled rectifier/regulator. When I disassembled my motor, scraped and cleaned deposits from the water cooling passages, I was thinking about the R/R. Wondered if I should pull it and check/clean deposits, never did. Should that be a maintenance item on older motors that show signs of deposits? I would think you could avoid damage/overheating of the R/R.

I would think, if Yamaha put cooling water thru the R&R, it was for a reason.

It wouldn't hurt to check it, clean it if necessary. A whole bunch cheaper than over heating your current (pun intended) good R&R..

[99yam40]

just think of this as a reason to design a test for water flow thru the RR.
Put a water flow of a known pressure thru it, measure the output flow over a
designated time on yours and a cleaned or new one.
post the results so others can benefit from a test to decide if they need to clean the RR cooler