2008 Yamaha 150 2 stroke (150 TXR) issues

[cpostis]

For those of you that choose to use "worm gear" stainless steel clamps in a certain application, be sure to select a material grade that suits your needs. Just because the clamp says "stainless steel", doesn't mean all components within the clamp are such.

Here's information from Ideal-Tridon clamps:

[IMG]IdealTridon.HoseClamps by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[911grizzly]

Thanks guys for all the great information and advice. I plan to purchase a new Yamaha primer bulb. I'm leaning towards the Oetiker style clamps, but have not made a final decision yet on those.

Another question about fuel hose. What brand is best, where to buy it and finally, what is the correct size for my motor? The owner's manual does not specify, and from my preliminary inquiries it appears outboard fuel hose comes in 3 different diameters.

[911grizzly]

"I haven't had good luck with Stabil and avoid it."

Is this a common opinion? Suggested alternative fuel stabilizer?

[pstephens46]

"I haven't had good luck with Stabil and avoid it."

Is this a common opinion? Suggested alternative fuel stabilizer?

I have never used it in 5 years of owning a 4 stroke. I use Ring Free Plus which is not a stabilizer. I have only used NON-ethanol fuel. I have never found any water in filters. The longest my boat was ever stored was two months. I may get to use it this weekend if I am lucky.......

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I like the Evinrude style Scott posted above. Might be a little trouble in tight spaces.

As you didn't have to R&R those zip ties (under the cowl) often, (I looked for a pic but couldn't find one to post.) the Yamaha zip ties DO have that curved inner lip giving a better seal for smallish lines. IMO, worth it vs chasing a fuel / air leak.

As for the plastic fuel line clamps, they USED to have teeth just on one side to grab, NOT both sides. The two sets of teeth is the first time I've seen them.

With that said, I use the below pictured clamps on both ends of my primer bulb to fuel line(s). They squeeze more evenly and you can get them very tight if need be... They are EXTREMELY STURDY.

Below is the original Evinrude fuel line clamps I referred to, just one set of teeth:

Double click to enlarge

.

[Jason2tpa]

Jason, RF shock dose is 2 oz / ONE GALLON.

It's generally easier to use a separate tank with fresh fuel (and no crap floating on the bottom to get sucked into the system). Generally 6 gallons is enough for the shock treatment.

Makes sense. Who knows what kinda crap rests at the bottom of my fuel tank.

But just to confirm, because you're saying to mix RF with 6 gallons, you're using this RF treated 6 gallons while running engine on open water? Because surely you're not running through 6 gallons while idle on flush...unless you have a few days to kill.

I mention this because Chuck stated he only uses 2 gallons of treated RF fuel, run engine for 10min, let sit overnight..etc.

Sounds like you and Chuck shock differently, though I'm not trying to start a debate here with who has the best technique for a shock treatment. Just making sure I understand your procedure. Thanks.

[cpostis]

Makes sense. Who knows what kinda crap rests at the bottom of my fuel tank.

But just to confirm, because you're saying to mix RF with 6 gallons, you're using this RF treated 6 gallons while running engine on open water? Because surely you're not running through 6 gallons while idle on flush...unless you have a few days to kill.

I mention this because Chuck stated he only uses 2 gallons of treated RF fuel, run engine for 10min, let sit overnight..etc.

Sounds like you and Chuck shock differently, though I'm not trying to start a debate here with who has the best technique for a shock treatment. Just making sure I understand your procedure. Thanks.

Jason, I am referring to dissolving deposits that may be within his carbs (OP's potential problem) with a solution ratio equal to "shocking", not actually "shocking" to decarb an engine.

Go tit?

[Jason2tpa]

Jason, I am referring to dissolving deposits that may be within his carbs (OP's potential problem) with a solution ratio equal to "shocking", not actually "shocking" to decarb an engine.

Go tit?

Ah ha, the method you suggested is particularly for shocking the carbs--NOT as a decarb method. Got it. Nifty method though, sure wouldn't hurt to make this an annual PM incorporated with a decarb shock treatment.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed ^^^...

The Op already has a (probably) a partially clogged carb.

Letting the "solution" sit and work won't hurt anything and can only help.

I would still run the 6 gallons (operating the boat) again, only as the engine allows, (we don't want to cook a piston as a carb is still clogged/running lean.)

If it doesn't work, tear down is necessary..


In your case Jason, you don't have a clogged carb. Letting it sit is just wasting your time. Mix up 6 gallons and run it normally.

I would suggest using it regularly (1oz / 10 gallons) after that... Keeps things nice in clean in the fuel system..

BTW, did you get that "sputter" figured out?


.

[Jason2tpa]

Agreed ^^^...

The Op already has a (probably) a partially clogged carb.

Letting the "solution" sit and work won't hurt anything and can only help.

I would still run the 6 gallons (operating the boat) again, only as the engine allows, (we don't want to cook a piston as a carb is still clogged/running lean.)

If it doesn't work, tear down is necessary..


In your case Jason, you don't have a clogged carb. Letting it sit is just wasting your time. Mix up 6 gallons and run it normally.

I would suggest using it regularly (1oz / 10 gallons) after that... Keeps things nice in clean in the fuel system..

BTW, did you get that "sputter" figured out?


.

Gotcha. I'm really starting to lean towards using RF as a consistent decarbing additive, verses seafoam that I exclusively use only as a shock additive every 3 months. The sticker price for RF has kept me away, but using 1 oz/10 gal is no big deal. I do use Stabil as my fuel stabilizer religiously though, primarily because I use 10 ethanol fuel. But as I just mentioned in a different thread, I use my boat so often (2-4 days/wk) that the ethanol fuel in the tank isn't in there long enough to cause a problem.

RE: Sputter
Yeah, sounds like I did. I had made a small adjustment to the cam-throttle lever linkage (extending length to match spec). This allowed me to back off the idle speed screw, which allowed me to turn in the pilot screws (they had been set 3/4 turn outside of spec). Since making these adjustments it hasn't sputtered once.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Gotcha. I'm really starting to lean towards using RF as a consistent decarbing additive, verses seafoam that I exclusively use only as a shock additive every 3 months. The sticker price for RF has kept me away, but using 1 oz/10 gal is no big deal. I do use Stabil as my fuel stabilizer religiously though, primarily because I use 10 ethanol fuel. But as I just mentioned in a different thread, I use my boat so often (2-4 days/wk) that the ethanol fuel in the tank isn't in there long enough to cause a problem.

RE: Sputter
Yeah, sounds like I did. I had made a small adjustment to the cam-throttle lever linkage (extending length to match spec). This allowed me to back off the idle speed screw, which allowed me to turn in the pilot screws (they had been set 3/4 turn outside of spec). Since making these adjustments it hasn't sputtered once.

Excellent.. Yep, using the boat that often is the best thing for it...

Do you use (or does it work) the Yamaha speedometer?

[Jason2tpa]

Excellent.. Yep, using the boat that often is the best thing for it...

Do you use (or does it work) the Yamaha speedometer?

No speedometer gauge installed, only tach gauge. I'm in my boat so much I can tell you my speed (+/-) 1 mph just by knowing the rpms, which I can tell you (+/-) 100 rpms by ear. It's one of the advantages of operating a 2 stroke.

I win this bet often when having a friend on the boat, confirming the speed with my iPhone speedometer app. I have no problem taking their $$. Suckers.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not answered earlier, 3/8" ID MARINE GRADE fuel line is needed.

I have had "mercury" marine grade grade fuel line, the inner liner literally come apart from the main hose. Doing routine maintenance, I noticed crap in the under cowl fuel filter and NON in the transom filter.

This line was installed when the boat was re-powered. The ethanol obviously ate it up, why, dunno. It was printed on the exterior marine...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For those of you that choose to use "worm gear" stainless steel clamps in a certain application, be sure to select a material grade that suits your needs. Just because the clamp says "stainless steel", doesn't mean all components within the clamp are such.

Here's information from Ideal-Tridon clamps:

[IMG]IdealTridon.HoseClamps by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

The 62M is what I just replaced my transom filter clamps with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cpostis]

The 62M is what I just replaced my transom filter clamps with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have seen so many instances where people have over torqued these type clamps to the point they distort the screw housing and even destroy them (maybe I was guilty of this in my earlier years). Here's what Ideal-Triton says their torque ratings are for these clamps.

"Installation Torque: 10 to 15 in-lbs (1.1 to 1.7 Nm)"

Not much, huh? Doubt I would use a torque wrench, but would "snug up" just a bit.