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Yamaha F20BMH 2013 electrical

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  • #16
    Originally posted by merc200dalarna View Post
    Now that sounds simple enough for me. I sure appreciate both of your input.
    So when I buy the rectifier assy, I will use the 2 wires with a male connector
    where my plugs are? Yes The rectifier assy has 5 wires, I believe, and the ground is the black wire with a circular "connector"? Yes It leaves me with 2 wires, and I want to put the fuse on the positive lead going to the battery? Yes What sort of battery-wire (name, specs etc.) should I use for the 2 leads to the battery? Part number 6AH-81949-00-00 that is shown in the parts catalog is the battery cable.
    Can I tell somehow what wire is "plus" or "minus"? The battery cable will usually have a red band around the terminal that connects to the positive battery terminal. The cable with no red band will connect to the negative battery post.

    Well, I think I have the theory of it all nailed, still to be seen if I can make it work. Gotta say I love the internet for help like this. Thank you!
    A photo may be worth a few words. Just follow the diagram.

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    • #17
      Wait for my next message to appear. It was sent off to a moderator to be approved. Not sure why. Here is part of what was in my message.

      I wish I knew what is causing stuff to have to go off to a moderator. I would stop using the magic word(s) if I knew the code.
      Last edited by boscoe99; 01-08-2017, 01:42 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
        one lead from the engine block (a ground) to the batt -.
        the other fused from the red regulator lead to the batt +.
        you could use a marine grade two wire romex and heat shrink crimp connectors in about a 10Ga wire.
        10 ga is overkill but it wont be as susectible to chafing.
        at or near wot you may see 8-10 amps DC.
        RODBOLT and 99YAM>>>>> OK, that was also a grat advice, since I use the motor for 85% slow *****ing on idle. Might even be more than 85%, because I rarely transport more than 2 american miles from any launch. My average fishing trip is about 4-5 hours, at about 70 seperate occasions per season (I write fishing statistics journal...) And yet I do only about 150 hours of running time on my motor each year, china made tach/hourmeter. The rest of my fishing is anchored casting, engine off. I hote the current going to my small battery in idle will be enough to keep it fresh for my fishfinder and my USB-outlet for electricly heated gloves (motorcycle gloves, early march fishing and late november means sub freezing temp in sweden, but large pike)

        An "Off the hip guesstimate", will idle speed give enough amp to have an impact, or will I be taking the battery home after every second trip?

        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
        Just to make it clear to merc, you will not get very much amperage out at low RPM.
        120 watts, 10 amps may be seen only at WOT
        See above answer, thank you mister.

        Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
        Wait for my next message to appear. It was sent off to a moderator to be approved. Not sure why. Here is part of what was in my message.

        I wish I knew what is causing stuff to have to go off to a moderator. I would stop using the magic word(s) if I knew the code.
        I check this thread all the time. My guess is that you get caught by some simple "overactive" guard that warns that you might be a "bot" because of frequent posting. Your picture is once again worth **** (Au, the element Au, gets cencored, had to edit as the cencors made it look like another 4 letter word #EDIT) to me. Look how easy you made an electric chart where any beginner understands it. All 5 wires in the rectifier explained with their end role highlighted. Since all 5 come "out" the same end of the physical rectifier, I had a hard time figuring out which ones were infact "ingoing/outgoing".
        Last edited by merc200dalarna; 01-08-2017, 10:56 PM.

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        • #19
          need to find your amp draw from gloves and fishfinder to start out with and then measure the output to the battery whem running a slow speeds.

          my thought would be to charge the battery after every trip and forget the buying the parts

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
            need to find your amp draw from gloves and fishfinder to start out with and then measure the output to the battery whem running a slow speeds.

            my thought would be to charge the battery after every trip and forget the buying the parts
            I think Lowrance says about 0.7ah for the fishfinder, the draw from the gloves is probably greater. I will stick to installing, because of wanting to have a "winterproject", and also that I want a boat with all the gadgetery (that my economy allows) mounted. Besides th actual fishing alot of the fixing and "upgrading" is fun!

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