"Yamaha" parts vs. "aftermarket"

[fairdeal]

so, I posted about the worn-out brushes of the T/T motor on my F225TXRD

after ~11 years, ~ 1600 hours of service, they had been "used up".





Now, new brushes are $71 each - x 4!
But worse! as it turned out - my brush holder was unusable. After 11 years.

So i needed a new motor.

A new Yamaha "motor assembly" is $608 list, $532 here -

so I went with a ~$100 eBay "aftermarket" T/T motor.

A "bargain" !!! Not some "high priced Yamaha rip-off"

I installed it 10/24/16.

Less than two months ago.



Yep. Will it last a year?

[pstephens46]

So the rust starts on the edge. Is that a seam? So the motor edge was not painted where it rests on the "flange" below? Reminds me of my replacement trailer tongue. 3"x3" hot dipped galvanized, inside and out. Except where it was trimmed to fit lengthwise. No protection on that end. Guess where the rust starts.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I guess you get what you pay for!

Pretty sad, two months old...

Can you transfer the internals of the Flea-Bay unit to the inside of the Yamaha housing?

Maybe Powder coat the old Yamaha housing if necessary before assembly?

[Jason2tpa]

The OEM vs. Aftermarket parts debate will go on and on. OEM seller says their parts are of better quality, therefore a higher price. Aftermarket seller says their parts are of equal quality as OEM, but without the overhead cost to R&D the OEM part, therefore a lower price.

Both statements are true, and both statements are also false. You buy an aftermarket fuel pump...it has functioned without flaw for 7 years, whereas the previously installed OEM fuel pump lasted 5 years. Then you bought a water pump assy from the same aftermarket company...the water pump failed within 1 year, whereas the previously installed OEM water pump lasted 2 years––and could have lasted longer.

The above OEM v. Aftermarket scenario is all too common, especially in the world of marine parts due to their high susceptibility of corrosion.

So the more insightful question you gotta ask yourself when buying aftermarket parts is does that aftermarket company produce a part equal in quality to the same OEM part.

The debate of whether or not aftermarket parts are as good as OEM parts is a debate for the intellectually challenged. The smart aftermarket parts buyer finds out which company produces a part equal to or better than the OEM part. They do exist.

This topic kinda reminds me of my ex-girlfriend. She got sick with a head cold so we went to walgreens to buy a 18-pill box of sudafed, $8. I picked up a 18-pill box of wal-phed and looked at the ingredients. Exact same ingredients and dosage as sudafed, but $4 cheaper. She insisted on buying the sudafed because it was better.

Go figure.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I haven't bought any after market parts for my outboard. As I may be miles out away from land, I don't cut corners on OEM engine parts. It's just not worth the potential gamble....

IE, will the above T&T pump last 11 years? If Fairdeal gets 2 years out of it, he'll be lucky. Two years a piece x's 5 (for ten years total), he's back to $500, plus time, hopefully no leaks and flushing in-between, etc...

Re aftermarket parts for Yamaha motorcycles, it's not un-common to have an aftermarket part not fit correctly/ fail too soon. SS brake lines for instance are not available as OEM. I replaced mine with HEL lines, a large, well known name brand. I don't cut corners on brakes either...

Chinese knock off throttle/clutch cables are NOTORIOUS for excessive stretching way too soon..

Now if you can find a used OEM with a warranty (and you can easily check the insides for it's condition), I wouldn't have a problem with that.

[Jason2tpa]

Personally I have only replaced parts with yam oem, but soley because the oem cost of the parts Ive replaced is minimal compared to aftermarket.

I have replaced what I call disposable parts with aftermarket parts, such as fuel filters and gaskets. And I don't use yam lubricants like grease or oil. I guess using a 2 stroke motor oil by say quicksilver or exon would be aftermarket. I don't know.

[boscoe99]

Personally I have only replaced parts with yam oem, but soley because the oem cost of the parts Ive replaced is minimal compared to aftermarket.

I have replaced what I call disposable parts with aftermarket parts, such as fuel filters and gaskets. And I don't use yam lubricants like grease or oil. I guess using a 2 stroke motor oil by say quicksilver or exon would be aftermarket. I don't know.

What in the hell would Mercury Marine or Exxon-Mobil know about lubricants?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The Yamaha water proof branded grease is NOT much more $ (at all) for the full sized cartridge.

Same stuff you'd use on the mid section bushing, splines, etc. I know by experience, for instance Walmart branded water resistant cartridge grease will NOT HOLD UP for the mid section bushing. Did that ONCE, lasted about a month and had to do a "do over".

Probably 2 -3 years ago, the turning / steering (not cable) grease fitting on the mid section, I couldn't get grease to come out one end. After lots of cut of rags, being pulled in and out around the top and bottom of the steering (where the grease eventually comes out and hardens up). I had to tie a rag super tight around the "good end" to force grease thru the "clogged end" and open it up.

With that said, that fitting ALWAYS got a couple squirts of grease EVERY TIME the boat goes out. So far with the Yamaha grease, no issues but I do keep the excess to a minimum... And a "spot" of water always comes out the bottom, ALWAYS..

Buying it on-line is quite a bit cheaper than the shop. RingFree at the shop is about $55 +. I just received a bottle (from online) for $38 yesterday: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



.

[Justmeagain]

rust

Have you considered Navel Jelly? Might give you another year. I use it on pumps that are below deck and aft compartment. When I see rust, I use a acid/flux brush and apply it. When it is cured, prime and paint.
Last thought is Cosmoline as another overcoat, more of a Before than After coating. Fishing club member was going to try it, but I lost contact with him.

[99yam40]

Have you considered Navel Jelly? Might give you another year. I use it on pumps that are below deck and aft compartment. When I see rust, I use a acid/flux brush and apply it. When it is cured, prime and paint.
Last thought is Cosmoline as another overcoat, more of a Before than After coating. Fishing club member was going to try it, but I lost contact with him.

have you read the info on using Naval jelly before? here is a little clip from it
"The rust treatment should not remain on a surface for more than 15 minutes. Rinse Naval Jelly rust treatment off with fresh water. Repeat if any rust remains. Leave rust treatment on longer for heavily rusted areas. Prime & paint within 24 hours (Naval Jelly does not provide long term protection to stop rust from rust reoccurring)"