Head Gasket Removal

[Jason2tpa]

Replacing head and cylinder gaskets today. Hopefully they'll come off in one piece. If not, any recommendations for a case safe solvent? Is the case SS or AL?

[boscoe99]

The block and heads are made of aluminium. Look closely where the head interfaces with the block and you might find some pry points.

[cpostis]

Replacing head and cylinder gaskets today. Hopefully they'll come off in one piece. If not, any recommendations for a case safe solvent? Is the case SS or AL?

Jason:
I think you'll find the original gasket has a sealant imbedded in the gasket. Here's a pic of my block after I removed the gasket in "one piece".

[IMG]13394010_633253816831679_2089326465614676508_n by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]

A lot, really a lot, of the sealant remained on both the heads and block. I tried the Permatex gasket remover without much luck at all. I found that regular mineral spirits softened the sealant somewhat making scraping with plastic gasket scrapers (looks like a chisel) easier. I did have to sharpen the plastic gasket scrapers several times on a grinder to a razor edge. After I got most of the material off, I removed the remaining with a piece of "Scotch pad" mounted on a drywall sanding block using a figure 8 pattern. Tedious and time consuming, yes. Checked heads and block for warpage and found way within tolerances.

[Jason2tpa]

Thanks chuck. I used Goop Off on carb intake body to remove adhesive residue. Worked pretty good. That and a razor blade. Mineral spirits didn't work as well for me. Heading to the boat shortly to begin gasket removal/install. We'll see how it goes once it's opened.

[Jason2tpa]

By the way, since I'll be able to see the cylinders, anything I should be looking for in particular? In terms of their condition.

[amahaork]

make a good pictures of cylinders wall and post it here. it is somewhat dangerous in terms of number responses you will get, but it is sure way to have free inspection.

[boscoe99]

For what reason does the gentleman from Tampa rise to replace his head gaskets?

[pstephens46]

I am betting boredom.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You didn't happen to do a compression test or better yet, leak down test before yanking the heads did you?

I ask in that if you had a cylinder lower than the others, perhaps put some RF or Seafoam into that cylinder(tilted up) and let it soak down potentially loosening up any extra built up carbon on/in the rings.



Clean all the coolant passages in the head and block while the head's off.

Also, run a tap or at least a cleaned up bolt through all the block threads, blow out with an air compressor and get them spotless for an accurate, assembly, torque (clean up bolts too).

I think Yamaha calls for 2-3 "steps" for tightening down the head. I prefer doing a couple extra steps (smaller increments). Doesn't take much longer to do...

And when your done and back to being bored, can you drive 2 hours south, my boat needs waxing! I'll buy lunch!

[Jason2tpa]

For what reason does the gentleman from Tampa rise to replace his head gaskets?

I am betting boredom.

Haha...well it was too windy for fishing today. Nah, replacing the gaskets were on my list of parts to replace since purchasing this used engine over a year ago.

What drew my attention to the head gaskets were the white crusty gunk spewing from both gaskets, on both heads. So that was the primary reason for replacement. Second reason for replacement is just general PM. The guy I bought the engine from did not have a PM history. Despite this engine being in spectacular condition for its age, for the few years the previous owner had the engine he only replaced water pump.

So for all I know the head gaskets were original '98. All the above, and having recently installed carb kits and saw the poor condition of those gaskets, replacing head gaskets seemed like a good idea.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

And how much salt build up in the coolant passages?

[Jason2tpa]

You didn't happen to do a compression test or better yet, leak down test before yanking the heads did you?

I ask in that if you had a cylinder lower than the others, perhaps put some RF or Seafoam into that cylinder(tilted up) and let it soak down potentially loosening up any extra built up carbon on/in the rings.



Clean all the coolant passages in the head and block while the head's off.

Also, run a tap or at least a cleaned up bolt through all the block threads, blow out with an air compressor and get them spotless for an accurate, assembly, torque (clean up bolts too).

I think Yamaha calls for 2-3 "steps" for tightening down the head. I prefer doing a couple extra steps (smaller increments). Doesn't take much longer to do...

And when your done and back to being bored, can you drive 2 hours south, my boat needs waxing! I'll buy lunch!

I did not do compression test prior to pulling heads. But noted for the future. Take a look at these pics. I have zero experience with inspection of cylinders, rings, heads, etc. But if I'd had to guess, the black coating is all carbon build up. Right?

And for picture 1,3,4...what does the shiny spots on the head imply?

[Jason2tpa]

And how much salt build up in the coolant passages?

Not too bad actually. This pic represents the overall condition of each set. Some orange colored gunk on the walls, but not built up to block passages. I took some time and scraped most of it out. The casing surrounding each stat had the most corrosion...white and rock hard.

[Jason2tpa]

I ask in that if you had a cylinder lower than the others, perhaps put some RF or Seafoam into that cylinder(tilted up) and let it soak down potentially loosening up any extra built up carbon on/in the rings.

And when your done and back to being bored, can you drive 2 hours south, my boat needs waxing! I'll buy lunch!

Compression test or not, now you can see the condition of the cylinders and assuming the black IS carbon deposits, do you still recommend pouring seafoam into each cylinder and let sit over night? If so, then what? Use a cloth to wipe off the deposits?

Appreciate the offer of waxing your boat for lunch...but not even if jesus made the sandwiches my man.

[cpostis]

I did not do compression test prior to pulling heads. But noted for the future. Take a look at these pics. I have zero experience with inspection of cylinders, rings, heads, etc. But if I'd had to guess, the black coating is all carbon build up. Right?

And for picture 1,3,4...what does the shiny spots on the head imply?

Looks way better than mine did! BET YOU CAN STILL SEE THE ORIGINAL HATCH MARKS ON THE CYLINDER WALLS, and no vertical scratches on the cylinder walls either! Minimal carbon build up. You may want to replace the anodes in the block while you have it apart. Scratch the deposits from the philips screw lines and then use a light tap with a hand impact driver if you have one.

Don't let Scott fool you, I bet he waxes his boat once a week!