Shift rods separated underway

[vb2oc0371]

This a 2008 Yamaha 25hp (2 stroke) ESH.

After replacing both the upper shift rod and lower shift cam assembly, I had a hell of a time getting it to stay in reverse. After a little bit of internet coaching and adjusting how the barrel nut affected the length of the shift cam assembly, it seemed to shift nicely out of the water. I thought I had it right by and test drove it. After about an hour doing normal shift activities on the water, the boat got stuck in reverse. Not fun in a narrow, congested waterway with heavy current. I don't want to be in that spot again, When I got home, I noticed the shift rods weren't joined, the barrel nut must not have been spun down enough to effectivity grab and join to the shift cam assembly. I'm asking how my latest adjustments look to folks that excel in the field of shift rod, lock nut and barrel nut positioning.

Here's how it looks now:

FORWARD


NEUTRAL


REVERSE


Thanks for any helpful input.

[Jason2tpa]

Here is my response to a similar thread few weeks ago:

I had the same issue when I used to have my '98 25hp. Since you didn't open the gear box, or mess with any mechanics in the lower unit, you can assume all is functional. Joining the shift shaft and drive shaft is tricky. Sounds like you were doing it correctly by using pliers to hold drive shaft down in reverse gear while spinning down the shift shafts barrel nut. The barrel nut itself can extend or shorten the junction, depending on how far up or down the shift shaft the barrel nut is prior to joining.

What you're experiencing is the joined shaft is too short, which is why when you take it out of reverse and then put it back in it won't engage the dog.

Disconnect the junction, keeping the drive shaft pushed down in reverse and shift shaft in reverse, then either spin the barrel nut up or down a few threads before joining to drive shaft. My guess is spin the barrel nut down a few threads prior to joining, therefore lengthening the entire length of both shafts. You'll only need to spin down the barrel nut a few threads onto the drive shaft to test if you have it correctly. Once you find the sweet spot then you can secure appropriately. Good luck.

Looks like the bottom nut needs to be screw down a few more threads, then screw down barrel nut more. What did the junction look like before you made this adjustment?...or what adjustment did you make, up or down with barrel nut?

[vb2oc0371]

Here is my response to a similar thread few weeks ago:



Looks like the bottom nut needs to be screw down a few more threads, then screw down barrel nut more. What did the junction look like before you made this adjustment?...or what adjustment did you make, up or down with barrel nut?

I thought I followed your advice from a few weeks ago, but in my previous attempt, I didn't spin the barrel nut down far enough so the upper shift rod separated from the lower shift cam assembly. The barrel nut remained on the lower shift cam assembly when the separation occurred during the test run. Looking at the pic below, I'm apprehensive to spin the barrel down further because I'm not sure how much thread I have left at the bottom of the upper shift rod. With the nuts current position, (pictured), it shifts great and doesn't resist staying reverse.

[Jason2tpa]

If its shifting smoothly, then that must be the sweet spot!

[rodbolt17]

for starters.
there is NO adjustment on that shift linkage.
that barrel nut is simply a shift connect.
the procedure is fully engage reverse with the lower rod.
shift the shifter to reverse.
now you want to grab the lower with about 5 threads.
securely tighten the jam nut.

[vb2oc0371]

about 5 threads.

This is the info I'm looking for. Thanks

[rodbolt17]

just remember there are NO ADJUSTMENTS.

unlike some of the old chysler,Force USmarine and Suzuki stuff this barrel nut is a simple connect. it does NOT utilize both left and right hand threads.