F150 Tilt/Trim Question

[billyspitstop]

After replacing the TT motor, I am having a problem getting the unit to operate correctly. It will lift the engine from bottom, no problem. But it will not tilt or trim it down from any position. I can get it down by releasing the manual screw on the side of the unit, and then it will trim back up no problem.

If I run the trim motor down while fully tilted up, it runs but no movement. I then removed the screw cap on the reservoir and fluid shot out under pressure. Immediately after trimming all the way up, there was no fluid in the reservoir (at least it did not come out when the cap was taken off). So the motor appears to be pumping fluid back into the reservoir, but no down movement.

I think maybe I have that valve with the little retaining pin in backward, but I don't know. That part of the re-assembly with the little ball bearing was a bit of a mystery to me. Any ideas?

[pstephens46]

If you think you installed something incorrectly, start with that. Then bleed correctly. Good video to watch:

Pin Wrench - AMT0004 - 38mm X 4mm

He bleeds the unit at the end of video. So fast forward a bit.

Don't overfill reservoir, Full when fluid is even with bottom of fill tube.

[fairdeal]

an enjoyable, informative video!


one thing I found interesting -

he explained / demonstrated "snugging up" the trim cylinder end caps

And I think what he did was perfectly reasonable:

I estimate he put maybe 20 lb. ft. of tightening torque on




What I find bizarre is the torque spec in the Yamaha SM for that F225/250 :

115 lb. ft. for those caps. Why? I can't imagine.

But that is why he needed a 3 foot cheater on his socket handle to get them off

[billyspitstop]

Yeah, bleeding is not the problem. I am going to reverse that valve insert and see if that does it. Can't imagine what else it might be.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent video (and instructor), thanks for posting.

Got it saved for future use..

[pstephens46]

an enjoyable, informative video!


one thing I found interesting -

he explained / demonstrated "snugging up" the trim cylinder end caps

And I think what he did was perfectly reasonable:

I estimate he put maybe 20 lb. ft. of tightening torque on




What I find bizarre is the torque spec in the Yamaha SM for that F225/250 :

115 lb. ft. for those caps. Why? I can't imagine.

But that is why he needed a 3 foot cheater on his socket handle to get them off

And around 60 lb-ft of torque on an F150. Why double on your F225? Does it really operate with that much more pressure? I bent a cheap tool on mine and they didn't budge. Can't imagine 120 on those lousy spanner wrenches. Torture......

[pstephens46]

Excellent video (and instructor), thanks for posting.

Got it saved for future use..

And for Gods sake, if you ever try to remove pump assembly to replace o-rings......Blast the thread areas with a torch, long enough to remove paint. If not I guarantee bent or broken bolts. Remove short screws first.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The seals are whats keeping it from leaking.

I agree, the factory spec's seem way too high.

My boat / engine is on a lift, always washed, sprayed with a protectorant.
The T&T unit literally look brand new as they only get wet when in use...

Should I have to pull it apart, it should be about the easiest one to do(I'd hope / think)...


**Something too if someone can enlighten me...

Its been posted on the forum using PVC piping and the weight of the engine, ON THE TRIM CAP TOOL to keep it from slipping (which sounds proper to keep from slipping). That video, doesn't show that.

Would you just let the engine down on the spanner/cap/PVC pipe and release the manual screw till the cap(s) broke loose? Then manually lift and flip the MANUAL bracket lever?

[fairdeal]

Its been posted on the forum using PVC piping and the weight of the engine, ON THE TRIM CAP TOOL to keep it from slipping (which sounds proper to keep from slipping). That video, doesn't show that.

Would you just let the engine down on the spanner/cap/PVC pipe and release the manual screw till the cap(s) broke loose? Then manually lift and flip the MANUAL bracket lever?

Exactly. Boscoe has a nice photo of it being done; this one is similar:



For the trim ram its easy, just slide the pipe on.
To do the same thing for the tilt would require the PVC to be slotted.

I thought the Marine Tech guy was lucky his tool didn't cam out.

particularly because their's only uses 3 pins.

The Yamaha tool and its copies use all four...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's what I'm talking about exactly.

The video was very clear, as is the PVC trick.

***But to do both, are you cracking them loose FIRST (with the PVC and engine weight), then raise the engine and set it on the mechanical linkage? And then proceed?

[pstephens46]

Yeah bracing is a good idea. Esp for Townsend, if he slipped he would fall into the water.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah bracing is a good idea. Esp for Townsend, if he slipped he would fall into the water.

Not really. Last WP replacement, we did literally on the lift (in the shade of the canopy). Made a bracket that goes in the middle of the lift extensions, then an old door atop that. I have just enough room to pull the LU from the mid section right there. Bring it in the garage and take care of business...

I just would NOT want to bugger up those caps and make the fix way more involved and expensive...

[pstephens46]

The same company that made above video makes a bit that fits a hammer drill.

If all else fails, blast them off. And buy new caps....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The same company that made above video makes a bit that fits a hammer drill.

If all else fails, blast them off. And buy new caps....

One slip of a hammer drill, drill, etc, no thank you... Too much potential damage. Its cheaper to get the correct tool, do it right rather than tearing up a cap, a ram, cylinder, etc... (I don't like "do overs")

[fairdeal]

***But to do both, are you cracking them loose FIRST (with the PVC and engine weight), then raise the engine and set it on the mechanical linkage? And then proceed?

Yes, you've got it.

Once you know you've "broken loose" the end caps
then you get the LU sitting on "the tilt stop lever" to unscrew them further.

There are many turns from "just getting the end cap moving"
to "loose enough to allow the o-ring to leak"