A friend just gave me a gallon of synthetic 2 stroke oil. Is it OK to just pour it in the reserve oil tank with the regular 2 stroke oil
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I recon it wouldn't hurt. By "regular" I assume you mean non-synthetic. In which case mixing the two makes a synthetic blend. You won't be hurting anything, though burning the remaining amount in the reserve then adding the synthetic is wise.Jason
1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170
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Originally posted by Thehunter View PostA friend just gave me a gallon of synthetic 2 stroke oil. Is it OK to just pour it in the reserve oil tank with the regular 2 stroke oil
See the link for further specifications.
I don't think there are any true full synthetic 2 stroke oils out there. CAN ANYONE TELL ME OTHERWISE?
2M Outboard TC-W3® 2-Stroke Engine OilChuck,
1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
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Found one, says "synthetic", although says nothing about 100%.AMSOIL HP Marine Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil
The Hunter, what is the manufacturer and details of the "synthetic" oil your friend gave you?
Others, have any of you used this Amsoil product? If so, how do you like it?Chuck,
1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
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Originally posted by cpostis View Post
I don't think there are any true full synthetic 2 stroke oils out there. CAN ANYONE TELL ME OTHERWISE?
2M Outboard TC-W3® 2-Stroke Engine Oil
Evinrude XD-100 outboard oil is all synthetic
Their XD-50 oil is a synthetic blend
Your link does not work.
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FYI, synthetic oil is still made from crude oil. It's just refined further (or differently, may be a better way to say it) so the molecules are more uniform in size.
Me, personally, I wouldn't hesitate to mix them - as long as there isn't something strange with one of them where it isn't approved for you engine... which I suppose would be rare. All you're ending up with is a synthetic blend which is perfectly fine.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Originally posted by DennisG01 View PostFYI, synthetic oil is still made from crude oil. It's just refined further (or differently, may be a better way to say it) so the molecules are more uniform in size.
Me, personally, I wouldn't hesitate to mix them - as long as there isn't something strange with one of them where it isn't approved for you engine... which I suppose would be rare. All you're ending up with is a synthetic blend which is perfectly fine.
Having said that where do the ingredients come from? probably the same as plastics and many chemicals. What is important is that it is significantly different from crude oil derived oil.
On the question of changing oil by simply adding it to the tank doesn't constitute mixing. Maybe after shaking around in the boat they will. The more viscous an oil is the slower it mixes. I raised this because there is a belief that like animals, gradual changes should occur not to upset things. Therefore "weaning off" and "weaning on" seems to be prescribed. Say first mix 1/4 syn with the existing, then 1/2 etc.etc. until fully syn. They say it is to allow non miscible components not dominate or get out of proportion during this process causing unwanted affects. It's like washing, residual material may remain in a concentration greater than intended. Remember oil has detergents, emulsifiers, friction modifiers, suspended solids and other chosen ingredients that actually aren't the lubricant component of the oil. They have a different balance of these between oils.
But then again....
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I've been using the Pennzoil 100% synthetic oil for over 10 years in my C90....not sure exactly how it's made but it doesn't smoke as much and doesn't foul plugs or lay up carbon. The stuff is $45/gallon, a bit pricey$$$. We do a lot of very low speed river cruising (1000-1500RPM's) so smoking,carbon and fouled plugs is something I want avoid....so far, so good!
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Originally posted by Thehunter View Post
it's amsoil tc-w3 so it should be OK I think I'm just gonna pour it in.
You can find out for sure by seeing if they have a certified registration number on the NMMA certified TC-W3 oil page at http://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/tc-w3
Often the advertising departments will craft words that say in effect "meets all *** specifications" but that is not the same thing as being certified, tested, and approved by the organization that sets the oil standards.
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Good info here
What is synthetic oil?
The easiest way to define what synthetic oil is, is to define what it is NOT. Conventional motor oil as we have known it for the last 100 years or so is derived from crude oil that is taken from the earth with oil wells. Through a complex distillation process the crude oil is refined into many different liquids, or fractions, each having distinct characteristics. Some are very light and are used as fuel (gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel), and some are heavier and are used as lubricants (motor oil, gear lube, grease). There are many molecular compounds present in crude oil and many of those compounds are still present in the refined product, detracting from the physical properties of that product. For instance, paraffinnic waxes are present in crude-based oil, but contribute nothing to the lubricative properties of the oil. Also, the size of the hydrocarbon molecules themselves are non-uniform in crude-based oils.
Synthetic oil contains none of these contaminants and the hydrocarbon molecules are very uniform, giving the synthetic oil base better mechanical properties at extreme high and low temperature(see the sections below on physical properties).
By contrast, synthetic oil is not distilled from crude oil. It is made through a chemical process known as the Fischer-Tropsch process, starting with raw materials like methane, carbon monoxide, and carbon dioxide. This process was developed by Germany in WWII, when that country's access to crude oil was very limited.
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