Oil transfer problems

[guitarzan413]

Hello all, working on a 2003 DX150TLRB oil lift system. Started out with a low oil alarm because of low oil in main tank under cowl. Hot-wired pump and no action. Checked both senders in oil tanks and both are functioning at the gauge( moving floats and getting gauge signals). Installed new lift pump but will not work with emergency switch or from low oil in cowl tank. I can ground the blue wire at the pump and it will fill tank. I have read in my repair manual that a bad tilt sender may be causing this no feed issue. I noticed I had a broken switch (tilt sender and cam both) which left the gauge in the all up reading. I thought disconnecting it would clear that issue but still showing it's tilted all the way up. Is this a possibility for a no oil lift condition? I know I can keep my reservoir full and I don't need a tilt sender to run my boat but would like to not throw $175 at a switch that's not going to solve my main issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Spencer

[99yam40]

I am thinking that, that new of a motor would not use the trim input.
need to research when that changed to be sure.
newer motors had to see the motor running ,except for the initial key on.

Rodbolt17 has written a lot on this oil transfer subject, might research his posts

[boscoe99]

Hello all, working on a 2003 DX150TLRB oil lift system. Started out with a low oil alarm because of low oil in main tank under cowl. Hot-wired pump and no action. Checked both senders in oil tanks and both are functioning at the gauge( moving floats and getting gauge signals). Installed new lift pump but will not work with emergency switch or from low oil in cowl tank. I can ground the blue wire at the pump and it will fill tank. I have read in my repair manual that a bad tilt sender may be causing this no feed issue. I noticed I had a broken switch (tilt sender and cam both) which left the gauge in the all up reading. I thought disconnecting it would clear that issue but still showing it's tilted all the way up. Is this a possibility for a no oil lift condition? I know I can keep my reservoir full and I don't need a tilt sender to run my boat but would like to not throw $175 at a switch that's not going to solve my main issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Spencer

The trim sender has nothing whatsoever to do with the oil transfer system in your motor. Early models yes, later models no.

The pump should have 12 volts applied to it when the key is on. On the brown wire to the pump. Does it?

The CDI and/or the toggle switch ground the blue wire to cause the pump to run. If there is voltage to the pump then I would inspect the continuity of the blue wire. From the CDI to the toggle switch to the pump.

Carefully check the connectors in the oil harness that connects the remote tank to the motor.

[guitarzan413]

Thanks! Will do some more voltage/ground checks. So Boscoe, if I understand correctly either the ecm(float sensor) or toggle( 911 switch) should apply the ground circuit, but when I hit the switch I dont get a ground. I have it on the black wire on other side of toggle. How can I isolate them from each other? They tie together at the toggle.

[boscoe99]

Thanks! Will do some more voltage/ground checks. So Boscoe, if I understand correctly either the ecm(float sensor) or toggle( 911 switch) should apply the ground circuit, but when I hit the switch I dont get a ground. I have it on the black wire on other side of toggle. How can I isolate them from each other? They tie together at the toggle.

The float sensor (sorry rodbolt) does not provide the ground. The float sensor tells the ECU that the main oil tank is low in which case the ECU applies the ground. The pump runs and sends oil to the main tank. The float switch will then tell the ECU that there is enough oil in the main tank and to disconnect the ground to stop the pump from running.

Check the black wire to the toggle switch for continuity to the block.

Check the toggle switch itself to verify that the switch is closing when the toggle is pressed.

Check the continuity of the blue wire from the toggle switch to the remote tank oil pump.

If the black wire is grounded to the block, if the toggle switch works, if the blue wire to the remote tank is in good condition, if the pump has 12 volts to it on the brown wire, if the pump is known to be in good condition, then the pump should run.

The wire harness from the motor to the remote tank is known to be problematic. Carefully check the connectors.

[guitarzan413]

Thanks Boscoe, there is a crap connection at the remote tank. It was hard to get apart. I tried another harness, no luck, but maybe the connection side at tank/pump is culprit. I might have another tank sensor here somewhere, I'll tie it in with new harness and see if that solves problem, if I can find it! I can hard wire at tank if I have to, so I can make sure connections are all good.