Yamaha built-in isolater clarification

[pstephens46]

Trying to get some clarification based on earlier posts. I located and not currently hooked up on my 2004 F150 TXRD. Based on my understanding or lack of, the single function of this pigtail is to charge the house battery (#2) when battery switch is set to #1. If #1 is then drained during use, #2 can used as it will or should be fully charged.
Having said all that, Rodbolt suggested using a heat shrink connector to connect the pigtail to a 10 ga. fused wire. (removing Yamaha installed connector) Does it connect directly to positive terminal on #2 house battery?

[pstephens46]

I found the last post by rodbolt, think I got this.... I think I will verify charging voltage on lead before connecting out of curiousity. Pretty nifty, can't believe these riggers don't utilize these. If I need to ever disconnect, will simply remove 30amp fuze.

[boscoe99]

I found the last post by rodbolt, think I got this.... I think I will verify charging voltage on lead before connecting out of curiousity. Pretty nifty, can't believe these riggers don't utilize these. If I need to ever disconnect, will simply remove 30amp fuze.

It is an option. Riggers are usually directed to install a motor at the lowest cost using the least number of parts possible. To save time and money.

Also, many boats use only one battery.

If and when someone wants to install a second (or third) battery it is cheaper and less time consuming to simply install a Yandina type battery combiner than it is to use the Yamaha isolator lead. The Yandina doing the same job. For less money.

[pstephens46]

So Rodbolt says 10 ga wire, couple connectors and in line fuze. Yandina is $70.00 right? Little bit harder as you have pull the wire I agree....

Just saying......

I hate when people say "just saying...."

[boscoe99]

So Rodbolt says 10 ga wire, couple connectors and in line fuze. Yandina is $70.00 right? Little bit harder as you have pull the wire I agree....

Just saying......

I hate when people say "just saying...."

$64.95 to be specific. Plus tax tag and title.

Yandina Marine Electronics

I also hate when people say "just saying".

Now what really drives me up the wall is people using the word "bring" when they really mean "take".

Regarding wire size, I don't see one size (10 gauge) fitting all applications. I would size the wire based on a particular motor size (generator output capacity) and length of the wire to the battery.

[pstephens46]

How about " gonna carry Momma to the store"?

Bout 10-12 ft of wire from an 2004 F150 to the batt switch? Think its 10ga from the relay on the pigtail now....

[fairdeal]

I used 10 gauge wire to connect the isolator lead on my F225txrd to the house battery. IIRC it only took about 6 feet.

I snipped off the nifty quick connect on the engine lead.

greenshot

So it cost me $4.00 for the wire, about $4 for an in-line fuse holder, and a few quarters for three butt connectors and a ring terminal. Oh, and a extra bit of heat-shrink.

Maybe $12 all in.

Yes, I had to fight for a while in the heat and blazing sun to snake the wire through the rigging tube - but one needs to occasionally do something with one's time besides fish or drink beer...

[pstephens46]

Thanks for the replies. I am looking for anything to do besides buffing gelcoat inside the boat. Which of course needs to be done. But reminds me of raking leaves....

[99yam40]

I thought the gell coat was on the outside

[pstephens46]

We don't all have 90ft yachts....but still beats raking leaves