skeg protector for F30?

[richardwhite54]

Hi fellas, newbie here. I have a 2013 F30 that I would like to add a skeg protector to. All I find jump from 25hp to 40hp and skip the 30hp models. Any idea of a source, or if the 40 might fit. thanks Richard

[bajakeith]

Why Bother

I see them time from to time and are a waste of time and money and increase drag in most cases..................

[DennisG01]

You also increase the possibility of breaking your skeg off at an area that can't be fixed (welded). Skeg protectors are a total scam. The skeg is a sacrificial unit and needs to be able to break off as designed to save the rest of the LU. If it breaks off to close to the gearcase, it may not be able to be fixed. The skeg protector, because of the holes drilled in the skeg and the harder material of the protector, will transfer more impact closer to the gearcase.

[fairdeal]

That's a pretty broad generalization, Dennis

I'm not saying your wrong,
but I can't help but be skeptical that Yamaha (or any outboard manufacturer)
has so highly engineered that extension of the casting that is always sacrifices itself in the right way,
at the right place,
regardless of the potentially varied conditions under which it might touch an obstruction.

Further, if an incident occurs where some part of the original skeg is broken off
- will whoever is doing the repair to make it "look original"
actually be able to match the original "magic"?

It just seems to me that while the value of installing an aftermarket item on an undamaged "original" skeg is of dubious value -

have they not some usefulness as a means to "restore" an already broken skeg?

[bajakeith]

skeg

a badly broken skeg rarely affects anything,,cept your pride !!

[DennisG01]

You're right that I was being a little general in my response - also that there is no "magical" formula for building in the proper place for a skeg to break. However, since the skeg starts to thicken as it gets closer to the gearcase, the chances of it breaking there are much less likely. It is more likely that the skeg will break further away from the skeg. I don't know if there's an exact "measurement" for this, but if the break ends up happening too close to the gearcase, then it can no longer be welded/repaired. I've always been under the understanding that somewhere around an inch is the "go/no go" distance.

Granted, there will be some skeg strikes that will cause the skeg to break close to the GC, especially those where the strike is very high on the skeg to start with. There's pretty much nothing that can be done in that situation. But "most" skeg strikes will happen lower on the skeg - and if the skeg breaks, it will then typically be not so high up... preserving the GC and the ability to weld a new skeg on.

Now, if you drill a couple holes just under the GC, you're weakening the "stronger" part of the skeg. And then you add on a piece of hard SS to the skeg... You've now effectively transferred the jolt from ANY impact right up to the top of the skeg and those holes. The chances of causing unrepairable (and expensive) damage have now significantly increased.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to clarify some misconceptions with hands on experience....

I have a custom made Skeggard made for my F150:

http://skeggard.com/

The drain hole is normally at the front, which I didn't want. I had them put the drain on the side, just about to the rear (as the engine is stored as shown and will drain fully). (The hole at the front, IMO, would tend to clog up with dirt if run aground). The mounting holes are up high, near the meatiest part of the LU. You can see, above the skeggard is literally the widest, part of the LU, the prop shaft (casting)...

I lost maybe 1 MPH form 46 to about 45MPH WOT (5,800 RPM's). I have run aground a couple times since the install, you can see some very slight horizontal scruffs towards the bottom if you look hard.

Also, the fasteners are designed to break off if you hit something REAL HARD so NO, you shouldn't loose your skeg.

BTW, I had to wait a little longer for the customized guard, but no deposite or extra charge. The drain is drilled BEFORE bending and welding. And it fits like a glove (as you can see)...

No more painting a scuffed skeg for me, highly recommended.

Excellent customer service!!!

And it was slightly cheaper going thru the manufacturer.




Boat/engine in normal storage:

[fairdeal]

Now, if you drill a couple holes just under the GC, you're weakening the "stronger" part of the skeg. And then you add on a piece of hard SS to the skeg... You've now effectively transferred the jolt from ANY impact right up to the top of the skeg and those holes. The chances of causing unrepairable (and expensive) damage have now significantly increased.

I agree, Dennis

The skeg guard provides greatly increased protection- even "invulnerability"
against the light scuffing and abrasion
which so commonly wears the paint off the skeg.

But there surely is a "trade-off" as you have so well explained.

Of course, the minor type of damage is certain to occur; while major damage is much more a question of "chance".

So perhaps it comes down to a personal issue of "risk vs, reward" for each individual owner.

And Scott - damn, that skeg looks nice!

[robert graham]

a badly broken skeg rarely affects anything,,cept your pride !!

And your prop!.....if you hit something!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now, if you drill a couple holes just under the GC, you're weakening the "stronger" part of the skeg. And then you add on a piece of hard SS to the skeg... You've now effectively transferred the jolt from ANY impact right up to the top of the skeg and those holes. The chances of causing unrepairable (and expensive) damage have now significantly increased.

There's TWO, .25" holes with 1/4" attachment hardware that'll SHEAR OFF in a very hard impact.

If you believe "the skeg will come off with skegard upon a hard impact", that's absolutely silly. You'll rip the motor from the transom before that'd happen...

Believe as you may, but between the thickness and length (amount of material) where the guard attaches to is un-realistic..

To say the whole skeg will come off before those bolts shear is just flat wrong.

Check out what/if the commercial fisherman(smaller, couple person vessels), with their high HP, super fast fishing boats have on their skeg's...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

a badly broken skeg rarely affects anything,,cept your pride !!

Your kidding right??

Prop protection and MORE importantly, STEERING???

How much effect does that little trim tab anode have on adjusting your steering? Adjusting just One notch makes quite a bit of difference.

That anode is MUCH SMALLER than a skeg and would have CONSIDERABLY MORE INPUT to your steering/control of your vessel than the anode...

[DennisG01]

There's TWO, .25" holes with 1/4" attachment hardware that'll SHEAR OFF in a very hard impact.

If you believe "the skeg will come off with skegard upon a hard impact", that's absolutely silly. You'll rip the motor from the transom before that'd happen...

Believe as you may, but between the thickness and length (amount of material) where the guard attaches to is un-realistic..

To say the whole skeg will come off before those bolts shear is just flat wrong.

Check out what/if the commercial fisherman(smaller, couple person vessels), with their high HP, super fast fishing boats have on their skeg's...

I think the "theory" that those bolts will shear is solid. But it won't always happen in reality.

It's not silly, and I'm not talking theory or what some manufacturer's website advertising spouts off. I've worked part time in the marine industry for 25-some years. I have personally seen a skeg guard cause unrepairable damage, just as I discussed above, on more than one occasion. I can very well remember that at least in a few of those cases, the "hit" was at the bottom third of the skeg guard... and area that, otherwise, would have only broken a small segment of the normal skeg.

FYI, if Yamaha's tilt/trim rams are similar to Mercruiser's, then it is HIGHLY unlikely that any impact (going forward, anyways) will rip the engine off the transom since there is safety valving built in to prevent that.

It's true - a broken skeg will have very little impact on steering. Been there, done that, too. Couldn't tell a difference. Besides, nearly ALL of an OB's or stern drives "steering" comes from actually turning the direction of the prop thrust. The "rudder" effect is really only evident if the engine is off. An anode is actually CHANGING the direction of water flow (pressure differential, I suppose?). A skeg doesn't change anything. It's main purpose is to protect the prop. Steering is secondary.

[DennisG01]

Richard, to answer your initial question though... It might be best to give the company you were looking at a direct phone call. Often, you can find out what you need in just a few minutes. The other way you could figure this out is to compare part numbers for lower units from your engine to one that you found a skeg guard for. At the top of this page is a link to parts.

[throrope]

I'm on my second skeggard. The first one is on the bottom of the Schuykill river thanks to a rock. The second has a good dent. The shallow sands of Pamlico sound keeps it polished. The skeg is perfect. I really need to put it in the water more often.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tks for the input thorope. So your first one broke off as designed then and #2 dented vs likely knocking out a chunk of aluminum skeg?


Dennis and specifically Rodbolt (please weight in as Rodbolt would have likely seen more than anyone here);

How many FACTORY SKEGS, equipped with a SKEGARD, have you personally seen, (that upon impact), took out the entire, FACTORY SKEG?

IE: the guard didn't break off and caused more damage than it saved???


@Rodbolt