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Muff flush vs. Hose flush

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  • Muff flush vs. Hose flush

    1998 2 stroke 115hp. Hey guys what's your take on fresh water flushing with ear muffs versus using the hose attachment installed in bottom cowling? The only difference I could come up is the muffs flush out the water pump housing. Your thoughts? Thanks.
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

  • #2
    I think the muffs feed the pump a little better. I'm thinking of building a setup where I can feed water thru both sides simultaneously.

    Comment


    • #3
      Maybe a year or so ago we had a similar thread. Good info and changed my mind, but not my habits.

      The one I liked was the rig with both muffs and hose connection.

      Either is likely fine, but I suspect rodbolt's heard diligent attention from owners and neglect from their outboards.

      Comment


      • #4
        Running on the MUFFS and getting to temp, allows water thru the thermostat where the other does NOT (plus the water pump).

        Once I get in, I'll use the power head hose flush for maybe 10 minutes. Once on the lift (and out of the water), the muffs and run it another 10 minutes or so.

        I have plenty of water pressure (no overheat alarms on the muffs), but should you get an alarm stop.

        What some use is a combo "Y" hose set up. One hose runs to the muffs, the other to the power head flush hose. The "Y" adapter (common garden hose Y available at Lowes, Home Depo, etc) comes with a small lever to adjust water flow more or less to each one..


        Somewhat related, if using the Yamaha Water pressure LU hole for the speedometer, I also flush that as well (especially with salt water use).

        http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th23159.html



        .
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #5
          I don't believe you need to run the engine to adequately flush the engine if you have the flush attachment.

          Comment


          • #6
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJaTjMOEKP0
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Nautical View Post
              I don't believe you need to run the engine to adequately flush the engine if you have the flush attachment.
              If the stats are not open, I do not think there will any flow though all of the cooling passages to flush them out very well

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                Thanks you!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good stuff townsend as usual. Video was good too thanks for the link.

                  Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                  Running on the MUFFS and getting to temp, allows water thru the thermostat where the other does NOT (plus the water pump).

                  Once I get in, I'll use the power head hose flush for maybe 10 minutes. Once on the lift (and out of the water), the muffs and run it another 10 minutes or so.

                  I have plenty of water pressure (no overheat alarms on the muffs), but should you get an alarm stop.

                  What some use is a combo "Y" hose set up. One hose runs to the muffs, the other to the power head flush hose. The "Y" adapter (common garden hose Y available at Lowes, Home Depo, etc) comes with a small lever to adjust water flow more or less to each one..


                  Somewhat related, if using the Yamaha Water pressure LU hole for the speedometer, I also flush that as well (especially with salt water use).

                  http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th23159.html



                  .
                  Jason
                  1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Not mentioned anywhere I have found with two stroke V4 and V6 there is a bolt at the top of each head water jacket that leads behind the thermostat water passage. Fitting a water hose to here allows flushing as if the thermostats are open (as if engine warmed); this combined with the provided flushing point eliminates the need to run the engine!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Your welcome for the link, etc.


                      Just a side note from my previous Evinrude V6 150 before I re-powered to the Yamaha.

                      Back in 1997, the engine did not have a "flushing hose" built in, thus, you HAD to use muffs. I had the original thermostat installed for the entire time. And of course the 2 stroke is MUCH noisier flushing/running.

                      Evinrude came out with an adapter to the power-head (rear of the engine) that allowed flushing W/O running the engine.

                      After installing that and using it, (NO MUFFS) within TWO YEARS, my thermostat clogged up with salt big time...(I have to assume salt built up elsewhere as well). Coincidence? No way.....

                      I'm still on my original thermostat on my 06 F150 BTW (low hours too)
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I run them everyday on the factory flusher.
                        never melted a pump never had an overheat.

                        Thursday I had to run an SX250 that I had just replaced the powerhead for about 15 min.
                        for that I used BOTH a muff and the factory flusher.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                          I run them everyday on the factory flusher.
                          never melted a pump never had an overheat.

                          Thursday I had to run an SX250 that I had just replaced the powerhead for about 15 min.
                          for that I used BOTH a muff and the factory flusher.
                          Does that mean enough water finds its way onto the impeller lubricating it?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            dude
                            watch and observe.
                            use a tad o common sense.
                            \\
                            tep hook up tp the supplied flush.

                            turn the water on fullo blasto.\
                            \watch the water intake.
                            once water is flowing OUT of the intake the pump is ok.\

                            this sheet aint really hard.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have run many a Yam using just the garden hose flush fitting to supply water to the motor. Nary a problem.

                              Water goes into the block, fills the block and then runs down the water pump tube where it flows into the water pump and lubricates the vanes of the impeller.

                              This continues to be a widely debated topic. Mostly because Yamaha expressly states in the owner's manual to not do it.

                              Here is a photo of water being supplied to an F150 via the garden hose fitting. Water is now flowing out of the block, through the exhaust system and also to the water pump. Motor is not running at this time.

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