2013 F300XCA Winterizing Process

[enys5000]

I'm having a hard time with the fogging part of this process. Everything I read is different and looks like its for 2 strokes . What is the process for a 2013 F300 4 stroke please ….do you fog the air intake - do you fog the plugs - some say yes some say no ? Some say use a 2 stroke gas/oil mix ….???? This is driving me crazy - I've done all other parts but the fogging .

[RayBersch]

Follow the instructions that I attached to my reply to your post on the Band of Boaters site or in your owner's manual (I gave you a link to get one if you do not have one) and stop drinking cool aid. There is a sticky at the top of this blog, sounds like you have not read that either. I did not give you a link to this site because you wanted basic information so you could get your winterization done and there is plenty of clear basic stuff in the Yamaha stuff I gave you.

Your confusion is that you are reading a lot of "good ideas" most of which are OK, but you want a basic way of winterizing - take the basic instructions Yamaha gives you, clear your head of what others say and move on. You'll be fine.

Ray

[enys5000]

I appreciate it - I read it and I've done all the service except the fogging . When I look at that pic of guy spraying fogging oil into Throttle Bores ???? - My Engine does not look like that and I'm no Pro but does my F300 even have those ? Because I've never noticed them unless they are covered or something . So its throwing me off

[boscoe99]

I appreciate it - I read it and I've done all the service except the fogging . When I look at that pic of guy spraying fogging oil into Throttle Bores ???? - My Engine does not look like that and I'm no Pro but does my F300 even have those ? Because I've never noticed them unless they are covered or something . So its throwing me off

Your model motor has but one throttle "bore". It is covered by an air intake silencer. You should able to find a screen on the silencer. You can spray fogging compound into that intake for a minute or so while the motor is idling.

You can then remove all six spark plugs. Spray a bit of compound directly into the combustion chamber. Then rotate the motor a turn or two however is easier. Some just bump the starter motor switch. Then spray another does of compound into each cylinder. Reinstall the plugs and torque them to specification. Reattach the coils.

[enys5000]

Thank you ! - That is what I'm looking for . What about this process in link below ?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBlqjRQ5Ba0

[boscoe99]

Thank you ! - That is what I'm looking for . What about this process in link below ?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBlqjRQ5Ba0

That is but one way. The easy mans way. Better than not doing anything at all.

Just a preference of mine but I like to coat the cylinder walls directly with the stuff. Also like to coat the intake valves with the stuff by spraying it into the the intake while the motor is running.

Like which brand of motor is best, you are going to get lots of answers on this subject.

[rodbolt17]

spray all you wish.
while your spraying start praying.
pray you don't bend a rod due to a hydraulic lock.

use a touch of common sense combined with a tad of observational logic.

that throttle plate simply meters air into a large square box.
attached to that large square box are 6 intake air runners .

that box nor the runners were NEVER designed to have ANY liquid in them.
just AIR.

when you start spraying(and praying) the oil tends to puddle at the bottom of that large square box.
then the lower runners tend to pull an incompressable liquid into the combustion chamber while the upper runners get none.
kinda like the last little piggy.


we use a fogging solution fed via a separate 1 gallon tank to PROPERLY fog and protect the fuel system.
we also use crank case Stor-N-Start in the oil.

but spray and pray as you wish.

I did see an 8.1 Volvo that bent a rod using the spray method.

[boscoe99]

How can fogging oil mixed with gasoline that is being burned as the motor is running really do an effective job of coating the cylinder walls?

Maybe this is a backyardigan type of procedure that is cheaper and easier than fogging the motor in a more efficient manner. Certainly it might be better than doing nothing.

But yes, if someone puts too much oil into cylinder then they can cause a hydrolock condition. That is not a fogging issue. That is a maintenance error. If someone does not know how to properly fog a piston motor then let me go to the front of the cheer leading line and cheer that they don't do it. Either don't do it at all or let a mechanic do it for them. And pray that the Yamaha mechanic knows what he is doing.

[boscoe99]

Here is some verbiage from three different Yamaha owner's manuals:



Did I mention that you are going to get many different answers as to what needs to be done (if anything) and how it is to be done? Good luck making your decision.

I see that Yamaha has now punted the ball and the later owner's manual say to see your dealer. Good luck with that. 2000 dealers. You can probably get 3000 answers.

[fairdeal]

we use a fogging solution fed via a separate 1 gallon tank to PROPERLY fog and protect the fuel system.

Maybe this is a backyardigan type of procedure that is cheaper and easier than fogging the motor in a more efficient manner.

[rodbolt17]

in my opinion Yamaha is simply wrong in their procedure.
not the first time.

mercruiser,volvo,crusader and a few others recommend a fogging mixture.
typically with about 8 oz of two stroke oil 1 gallon of fuel and fuel stabilizer.
this mix is to be run through the fuel line to coat the fuel system and cyl walls with oil.
if you spray any liquid in the single throttle valve system the oil sits at the bottom of the AIR box like a turd on a log.

like I said
use a tad o common sense with a dash of observational logic.

[boscoe99]

I am not saying that anyone is wrong. There are just different ways of more or less getting to the same end point.

Now some (many?) don't do squat for winterization.

Some will do a little.

Some will do a lot.

I like doing maintenance. I like doing it a lot. To me is it fun and not a burden. If I were to preserve a very expensive (say a $50,000 Lycoming) relatively new motor for long term storage, in a humid environment, I might go so far as to add a copious amount of corrosion prevention compound in the cylinders and then even go so far as to install desiccant plugs in lieu of the spark plugs.

Dehydrator Engine Desiccant Spark Plug 14mm Thread Indicating Silica Gel 8 Pack | eBay

But I would make damn sure to motor the motor over many turns without any plugs being installed at all before I next tried to start it up.

I think folks are looking for something practical and believable from the manufacturer. For Yamaha to say "see your dealer" is lame. Many don't want to see their dealers. The dealers are all over the map when it comes to engine preservation procedures.

Finally, common sense is not so common. I lose my own brain from time to time.

[enys5000]

Looks like I'm back to sq 1

[99yam40]

I would follow Rodbolts recomendations.
He does this for a living in NC

[boscoe99]

Looks like I'm back to sq 1

What is it that you want to do? Given that there are no finite procedures now provided by Yamaha you are free to contact 10 dealers and get ten (or more) different ways to winterize your motor.

Rodbolt works for a Yamaha dealer. If the procedure he uses is acceptable to you then you can follow it. If it is not acceptable to you then call some other dealers to hear what they have to say. If you have something in particular that want to do then see if you can find a dealer that will agree with you.

Maybe the real answer is that in the scheme of things it does not matter how (or if) your motor is fogged. If it does matter then you have any number of choices as to how to go about it. There is no one single answer.

Fogging might be like a Yamaha versus Evinrude or Ford versus Chevy debate.

But then perhaps you are looking for something super definitive such as this

http://www.tcmlink.com/pdf2/sil99-1.pdf