Yamaha F80 2002 ignition

[boscoe99]

OK I am downloading (slowly) the service manual, but the internet here on the remote Greek island is terrible.

Still trying to identify the source of burn/small, which my nose pointed towards the flywheel, would anyone please be able to tell me:

1) Can I remove the flywheel so that I can visually inspect the various coils hiding underneath and see if there is anything melted or burned? Yes.

2) There is a rather large nut that holds the flywheel down, the flywheel turning clockwise as I crank the engine, which way should I try to unscrew this nut? Counter clock wise. An impact gun works best for me to remove the nut.

3) If I manage to unscrew the nut and lift the flywheel off, will I then be able to put it back down, or will I lose the correct orientation and will not be able to place it properly? You will need a puller to remove the flywheel. It is a tight fit and takes a good pull to remove the flywheel. The flywheel is clocked to the crank shaft by a woodruff key.

Many thanks for all your help.

In addition to the puller you will need a flywheel holder to keep the flywheel from turning when the flywheel nut is torqued to its specified value. Make sure that the mating surfaces (bore of the flywheel and the crank shaft are clean and free of any debris or lubricants).

Send me your email address by PM and I will send you some trouble shooting information.

Sorry to hear of the economic problems you folks are having in Greece. If the US does not get its economic house in order we will be joining you soon.

[99yam40]

1. yes you can pull it,but will need a puller to get it off.
Just be careful how far you screw the bolts into the flywheel as if you go too far you can damage the coils with the bolts.

2. I am fairly sure it will be counterclockwise to remove the nut. manual should say. But will need a flywheel holder to keep it from turning or maybe a impact wrench to loosen the nut.

3.Flywheel is keyed to shaft so no problems re-aligning it to proper place, just make sure all is clean when putting it back on.
Will need something to hold flywheel again to be able to torque nut to specs in the manual.


Took me too long to reply and Boscoe already answered your questions, but maybe some of my comments will help too.

[boscoe99]

It's funny when two (or more) folks might be typing more or less the same answer at the same time. Better the information being posted twice than not at all. I can get sorta chatty with some of my responses in which case it can take a while to post them.

[akis-yamaha]

Hello guys

Thanks a million for all the responses.

Unfortunately my holidays ended before I could go and try to take the flywheel off to make a visual inspection. It would have been hard/impossible anyway because I did not have the right tools.

At this time the boat and the outboard are parked until the next season and I will have to arrange a further trip to Greece to try and arrange the necessary repairs.

One Yamaha mechanic I spoke to briefly over the phone said the burning smell would be coming from the backside of the regulator - well I beg to differ, because we took it off and it was not that.

Then same mechanic said the "electronics sits right above it" and it could also be damaged (did he mean by physical proximity?). This is the outrageously expensive part. But we have taken it out and it seems OK no smells.

In my opinion the smell comes from right under the flywheel, and there are those lighting and pusler coils. Those parts also outrageously expensive.

To give you an idea, when in the US web site it says "$350" this translates to "$1000-$1200" in the EU for the "electronics" and the bits under the flywheel.

For the rectifier, probably being a much more common part, the difference is small.

I am back home now (Surrey, UK) and will have to consider the future repair process carefully.

One of the major problems is that the Greek mechanics rarely do what you ask them to and very regularly present you with large bills you did not expect. In many other cases they are simply incompetent, some barely able to spell their own name, let alone read and comprehend a 500 page English repair manual.

Therefore it is essential that you are present when they carry out any work to be able to witness that the said parts are fitted and everything else is being worked on according to the manual (as much as you are able to have read the manual) .

I will keep you posted how I am getting along.

[99yam40]

Sounds like a bad place to own a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) unless you are handy with tools yourself

[99yam40]

Thanks!

A question would be, what can possibly go wrong if you remove the positive battery terminal and run the engine with a presumably faulty regulator? In my case the engine stalled, and there was a smell of burn. Most likely coming from the lighting or pulser coils, all hiding under the flywheel.

I suppose that the 12V line that powers the TCI now becomes "dirty" and feeds garbage into the TCI. The TCI either gets destroyed or somehow manages to destroy/melt/smell of burn the lighting or pulser coils?

Most of the time you hear about the rectifier /regulator burning up do to a bad connection at the battery. And as it burns up the heat/flames destroy the ECU that is mounted right above it.
I would think disconnection the battery is the same as a bad connection.

But if your R/R did not burn up, all you can do is test and inspect the lighting coil and pick up coils and the R/R to compare to the specs in manual

[boscoe99]

Grab a cheap flight to the US, get your parts, and head back to the UK. Back in the day when I worked, I worked with a number of Brits. And Italians and Danes. Whenever they came to the states they would load up with stuff.

In fact, one of the Danes, a Danish Air Force pilot, bought two stern drive boats here that he got, for what he said, was almost nothing. My brother in law, who is Danish, is delighted when he fuels up his rental car when he is here because he says that it feels like gasoline is being given away.

Good luck, of course, getting stuff through customs.

[akis-yamaha]

Grab a cheap flight to the US, get your parts, and head back to the UK. Back in the day when I worked, I worked with a number of Brits. And Italians and Danes. Whenever they came to the states they would load up with stuff.

In fact, one of the Danes, a Danish Air Force pilot, bought two stern drive boats here that he got, for what he said, was almost nothing. My brother in law, who is Danish, is delighted when he fuels up his rental car when he is here because he says that it feels like gasoline is being given away.

Good luck, of course, getting stuff through customs.

A year late, almost !

On examination it was discovered that the regulator was faulty. It was delivering nonsense, most likely alternating current (AC).

However with the battery connected, this AC was not making much impact, not making much damage.

As soon as I disconnected the battery however, this AC was untamed, and it went into the ECU and burned a number of components. One or more of these components exploded and made a hole into the protective gum/resin that the underside of the ECU is covered with and a burns mark on the engine block!

I got the new parts from the US and will be trying them in a couple of weeks, hopefully that will be all that's needed.

Apparently these regulators were a weak point on those 2002 Yamaha engines and have been silently replaced with beefier ones.

[rodbolt17]

myself I doubt it had anything to do with the A/C.

it had everything to do with overvolt.

yes the early F motors had some regulator issues and poor cables/connections could make them worse.

never ever run that motor with any battery cables disconnected.

that can and will fry stuff.

[Marc Kruse]

My F80 did the same thing, R/R overheated and took out my ECU. Like said it appears to be a common issue with these motors. Just Google it and you'll find other that have had the same issue.