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2014 F300 Flywheel removal. Learn me how please.

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  • 2014 F300 Flywheel removal. Learn me how please.

    From what I read, the F300 does not need a flywheel puller. Just remove the bolt(s) and it lifts right off. Great.

    I have a pretty hefty DC electric "lug wrench" impact driver. Will I need the means to prevent the F Wheel from spinning when I try and pull those bolts? And then again when reinstalling and manually torquing down the new bolts? Trying (as usual) to find a quick, easy and inexpensive way to do this. I need to replace my timing belts this year. Thanks.

  • #2
    With an impact driver, you definitely won't need any means of holding back the flywheel to remove it. Torqueing the bolts back down... not sure on your engine. But a crow bar (or similar) wedged against something with it's foot into a flywheel tooth will do the job. I imagine with the compression of the engine might be plenty by itself - but if not, it's easy enough to hold it back. Depending on your flywheel "top", you can also use a long, flat bar against two flywheel bolts while torqueing another.
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3
      it would be best to make sure nothing moves when the belt is off, so everything stays in time

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      • #4
        Yam was plenty smart with this engine. They placed line-up marks on the crank and the camshafts at precise points on the block. Before the belt comes off you turn the engine by hand to line them all up. There's only one spot where they'll do that, at TDC. YAM then placed additional marks on the cams that line up with marks on the belt itself, so there's only one way for the whole mess to go back together. ALL of those spots need to be in harmony. You can bet that I will be hyper careful doing this job.

        There are two vids on YT detailing the whole operation, one of them by a Yam Tech. But he has a helper when re-torquing the flywheel bolts. I won't have that luxury. On the other one, the guy manufactured a clamp of sorts to hold the wheel steady. He welded it and I don't have that skillset or a welder. I'm trying to find an easy substitute.

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        • #5
          With the right tool to hold the flywheel, you should be good. Whether you "adapt" a tool like I mentioned above... or just buy a flywheel wrench or a universal pulley holder (one that "grabs" onto stud heads). You should be able to hold the tool/prybar/flywheel wrench/pulley holder in one hand and your torque wrench in the other.
          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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          • #6
            Found this beast for 21 bucks. Very stout and solid tool. Problem solved.

            ​​​​​​https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TMTM7J6...roduct_details

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            • #7
              hope it fits on that Yamaha motor

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              • #8
                Do you think it won't? The jaws articulate. The only thing that might screw me is the diameter of the pins.

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                • #9
                  That is why I said what I did,
                  I have no idea what size the holes or pins are.
                  or how far apart they are or anything else about it
                  does your service manual call for a Yamaha tool specific to that motor?

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                  • #10
                    Can't answer that, but my guess is that yes, Yam has a specific tool. I'll know when I get over there and it's returnable. Wish me luck.

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                    • #11
                      Good luck, and measure the holes in your flywheel to see.
                      seems they posted some info on the size of tool
                      • Works on all models with sprocket holes larger than 14mm, hole separations from 25mm to 185mm.

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                      • #12
                        Just out of curiosity, how come you didn't get an actual flywheel wrench or at least a universal pulley holder? No guess work with those.
                        2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                        1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                        • #13
                          Watched two vids on YT. It appears as thought the F300 FW doesn't require a puller to remove, just something to oppose the torque turning force when you loosen the bolts to remove it and then when you reinstall and torque. You just need an easy way to oppose the force. There are a series of holes drilled in the top of the FW and the pins on this gizmo will (hopefully) slip right in. If this works, it's easy and cheap. And if it doesn't fit, I can return it.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by oldmako69 View Post
                            Watched two vids on YT. It appears as thought the F300 FW doesn't require a puller to remove, just something to oppose the torque turning force when you loosen the bolts to remove it and then when you reinstall and torque. You just need an easy way to oppose the force. There are a series of holes drilled in the top of the FW and the pins on this gizmo will (hopefully) slip right in. If this works, it's easy and cheap. And if it doesn't fit, I can return it.
                            Curious. Some spanner wrenches arrive with extra pins of various sizes. From what I remember, that motor doesn’t require a puller to break the flywheel loose. God help me if I ever need to pull mine on F150. The one bolt is listed as 199 lb ft of torque and that’s not the hard part as I have read.

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