Command link to Garmin GPS map for engine data-struggling for definitive answer!

[Mongoose]

I have got a Yamaha 250 4.2 offshore and it has 2 square command link gauges for all the data.
I would like engine data on my Garmin GPsmap, and seem to be getting conflicting answers.
Can anybody tell me what I need please?
I have been told I need a nmea starter kit and Yamaha single engine gateway.
I have also been told you don't need all that, but can piggy bank the command link gauge connectors and plug straight into unit!
Thank you

[fairdeal]

You do not NEED the Gateway.
You CAN connect the Garmin directly to the Command Link,
without using a NMEA 2000 Starter kit
(the square gauges are already on a NMEA 2000 backbone -
it just uses Yamaha's proprietary wiring)

You will need either an adapter cable
(NMEA 2000 on one end for the Garmin, Yamaha's plug on the other)
and some additional wiring to to 'make space' to plug it it,
along with your square gauge wiring

or you could,
if you are up to it,
get an ordinary NMEA 2000 cable to plug into the back of the Garmin,
then cut the other end off,
and 'splice' its four wires
together with the four wires that go to either of the gauges.

which do you prefer?


And what model GPSMAP?
does it have on the back, besides a port labeled "NMEA 2000"
a similar port labeled "J1939"?

[Mongoose]

Thanks- a bit of sense at last! -No J1939 port-that would have been too easy! LOL Liking the first suggestion better. any idea where I can source cable/adaptor from?
Thanks again!

[fairdeal]

OK trace the wires coming from the back of your square gauges:
not far away, they go to a Yamaha multi-hub, yes?

and one of the "Device" ports has no wires, attached,
just a cap over it?





if so, then you remove the cap,
and attach an 'adapter cable"
that has a female Yamaha plug
and whose other end is a female NMEA 2000,
to plug directly into the back of the Garmin

there are several commercially available,
you can Google and find the best price
these are essentially the same, 1 meter long

Oceanic 3861-F
Raymarine E70242

Now if you don't have an unused Device port,
then we go about it a little differently...

[Mongoose]

OK trace the wires coming from the back of your square gauges:
not far away, they go to a Yamaha multi-hub, yes?

and one of the "Device" ports has no wires, attached,
just a cap over it?





if so, then you remove the cap,
and attach an 'adapter cable"
that has a female Yamaha plug
and whose other end is a female NMEA 2000,
to plug directly into the back of the Garmin

there are several commercially available,
you can Google and find the best price
these are essentially the same, 1 meter long

Oceanic 3861-F
Raymarine E70242

Now if you don't have an unused Device port,
then we go about it a little differently...

Sorry- no unused device port- one grey cap at the end!
I have been told the unused grey cap is a 120ohm resistor.
port (2).jpeg

[fairdeal]

Sorry- no unused device port- one grey cap at the end!
I have been told the unused grey cap is a 120ohm resistor.

OK, that's fine.
Yes, the gray cap contains the "terminal resistor" for the NMEA 2000 backbone.

So the simplest approach now -
since you prefer 'plug and play' rather than making your own splices,
you buy two cables;
one is a Garmin part:





the other a Yamaha part:





Notice the Yamaha cable has 3 ends -
its a "Y-splitter".

Remove the cable that connects one of the square gauges to the hub -
either gauge, doesn't matter -

and replace it with two ends of the Y-splitter;

the third end of the y-splitter will mate with the Garmin cable,

and the NMEA 2000 end of the Garmin cable
goes right into the back of the Garmin.

Done.

After you have it connected,
with the engine 'key on' (doesn't have to be running)
go into the Garmin "Gauges" menu
something like
Menu > Installation > Engine Selection > Num. Engines
select "Autoconfigure"

and the Garmin should recognize the Yamaha.
You may immediately get some 'alarms' -
like "engine shutting down" or "shift position"

if so, those are meaningless artifacts -
find them in
Menu > Installation > Status Alarms > Custom
and disable them

[Mongoose]

OK, that's fine.
Yes, the gray cap contains the "terminal resistor" for the NMEA 2000 backbone.

So the simplest approach now -
since you prefer 'plug and play' rather than making your own splices,
you buy two cables;
one is a Garmin part:





the other a Yamaha part:





Notice the Yamaha cable has 3 ends -
its a "Y-splitter".

Remove the cable that connects one of the square gauges to the hub -
either gauge, doesn't matter -

and replace it with two ends of the Y-splitter;

the third end of the y-splitter will mate with the Garmin cable,

and the NMEA 2000 end of the Garmin cable
goes right into the back of the Garmin.

Done.

After you have it connected,
with the engine 'key on' (doesn't have to be running)
go into the Garmin "Gauges" menu
something like
Menu > Installation > Engine Selection > Num. Engines
select "Autoconfigure"

and the Garmin should recognize the Yamaha.
You may immediately get some 'alarms' -
like "engine shutting down" or "shift position"

if so, those are meaningless artifacts -
find them in
Menu > Installation > Status Alarms > Custom
and disable them

Absolutely brilliant! Thank you so much for clearing this up and simplifying it! I knew there was N2k there, but some so called experts were really pushing me down the road of spending a bloody fortune and setting up a network etc.
Once again-can't thank you enough!

[fairdeal]

well, Yamaha themselves haven't thoroughly explained things
and it can get a little complicated,

Digital Electronic Control - 'drive by wire' engines
which you may, or may not have:
you didn't say -

have both 'plain' Command Link which is NMEA 2000
and Command Link Plus,
which uses the exact type of electrical network
but a different data 'language'.

So if you had said you had round gauges,
then what I've suggested may not work -
because they could be on a Command Link Plus network.

But the square gauges only work with Command Link
so that must be what you have connected

[Mongoose]

well, Yamaha themselves haven't thoroughly explained things
and it can get a little complicated,

Digital Electronic Control - 'drive by wire' engines
which you may, or may not have:
you didn't say -

have both 'plain' Command Link which is NMEA 2000
and Command Link Plus,
which uses the exact type of electrical network
but a different data 'language'.

So if you had said you had round gauges,
then what I've suggested may not work -
because they could be on a Command Link Plus network.

But the square gauges only work with Command Link
so that must be what you have connected

My engine has the drive by wire throttle/shift control (2011 Yam 250 4.2 offshore) US designation-bit different name over here in Europe.
Ive got the Garmin cable on order-no problem, but struggling to find the Yamaha piggy back cable over here, so, while I have your help, could you please let me know what colours to which if I splice? Or are the colours of the 2 leads the same?
Thanks again!

[fairdeal]

although Yamaha uses their own wiring & devices,
they follow the NMEA color convention:
red is power (+ ), black is ground (-)
blue and white are the data wires, Net-L and Net-H respectively.

(NMEA also specs a "shield", Yamaha doesn't bother with that)

So match color for color.
Personally, in your shoes,
I would cut the Yamaha end off the Garmin 010-12770 cable,
cut one of the gauge 'pigtail' cables in two,
strip all the ends and make four 3-wire splices.

Then you'll have a custom "Combo Y-splitter Adapter Cable"

Any wire-joining method that you might use on a boat is fine.
Do you have "Scotchlok"s in Europe? they're fast & easy

Then a little electrical tape, or a zip-tie, for strain relief.

The way Yamaha constructs that 6Y8-82521-80 - for $50US - is hilarious, IMO.
Google up some closeup photos and you'll see what I mean.

---

[Mongoose]

Interesting- I have just had a email from a company in France who say do this.
I will do the splice as yes we have Scotchlocks!!
772F6262-12D5-4509-B8E1-C9A37A698B7B.png!!
They supply the red cable pictured. The rest is Garmin network

[fairdeal]

Interesting- I have just had a email from a company in France who say do this.
...
They supply the red cable pictured. The rest is Garmin network

Yes, that is interesting! I have not seen that - thank you!
The red cable would be - or be similar to - the "Oceanic Systems 3862"

There are many ways to get it done.

One can only wonder,
what was in the minds of Yamaha personnel
who decided to "re-invent the wheel"
and commission unique wiring parts
for their "Command Link" product,
when they could simply have used existing DIN standards...

Was it just an opportunity for increased profits?

[Gumby1977]

Okay sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm having a very similar situation. I have a Yamaha F350 with DEC with a build date of 07/07. I also have the square gauges installed. I purchased the Yamaha splitter cable as well as the Garmin cable to try to connect to my Garmin Echomap UHD 94SV. The Instructions that come with the Garmin cable state "NOTE: Do NOT connect this cable to the NEMA 2000 Network"

So I'm a little confused as to if plugging this into the rear NEMA 2000 port on the Garmin is going to damage anything if I'm wiring with the Yamaha Y harness just as stated above. Thank you.

[Gumby1977]

Okay sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm having a very similar situation. I have a Yamaha F350 with DEC with a build date of 07/07. I also have the square gauges installed. I purchased the Yamaha splitter cable as well as the Garmin cable to try to connect to my Garmin Echomap UHD 94SV. The Instructions that come with the Garmin cable state "NOTE: Do NOT connect this cable to the NEMA 2000 Network"

So I'm a little confused as to if plugging this into the rear NEMA 2000 port on the Garmin is going to damage anything if I'm wiring with the Yamaha Y harness just as stated above. Thank you.

Okay, So just to give everyone an update, (for me) regardless of what the literature said with the cable, plugging it into the NMEA 2000 port on the Garmin did not cause any issues and seems to migrate the data over from the Yamaha Command Link just fine.