Z300 TXRC Warning horn and limp mode

[marinemods]

I have a 03 Z300 TXRC. Within a couple of seconds of turning on the warning horn goes off and I am in limp mode. I do not have the digital gauge however I do have the diag software. I see no issues in the diag report.

I disconnected the temp sensor and the warning horn comes on immediately. So I do not think this is the issue. My next best guess is the Oil senders on the remote or engine tank.

The oil override switch does work and I hear the engine oil pump running for a few secs when I turn the ignition to start.

I did replace my battery cables with new marine grade ends and purchased two new AGM 880CCA with reserve. The motor cranks right up.

I was going to drain the engine oil tank to verify that it fills it back up. Also change the oil filters at the remote and engine.

I just got this boat so I am not familiar with its rigging yet. I started with the batteries to make sure I got good power.

The motor has 423 Hrs on it.

Any other suggestions?

[rodbolt17]

my suggestion, insert the knife between the second and third rib.

means QUIT STOP WHOAAAAAAAAAA

until you understand what alarms do and what limp mode is simply QUIT.
there are NO alarm audibles associated with the remote tank.

there are NO sensors involved with the audible.
only switchs.
the diagnostics will simply show the switch as open or closed.

my guess would be water detect if equipped or incoccect rigging.

the thermoswitch's, open, when closed its an alarm.
SW3 open, when closed an alarm.
battery voltage 10.5, much less an alarm.

[marinemods]

my suggestion, insert the knife between the second and third rib.

means QUIT STOP WHOAAAAAAAAAA

until you understand what alarms do and what limp mode is simply QUIT.
there are NO alarm audibles associated with the remote tank.

there are NO sensors involved with the audible.
only switchs.
the diagnostics will simply show the switch as open or closed.

my guess would be water detect if equipped or incoccect rigging.

the thermoswitch's, open, when closed its an alarm.
SW3 open, when closed an alarm.
battery voltage 10.5, much less an alarm.

I'll check the battery voltage at the motor and your suggestions.

So what I gather from your statements is their is no audible alarm for the remote oil tank, what about the tank on the motor?

[marinemods]

Also the only reason I suspected the oil sensors was this information I read from the owners manual:

If the oil level is allowed to drop to low, the red segment will appear on the oil-level indicator, the buzzer will sound, and the engine speed will be limited to about 2000 r/min.

[boscoe99]

If the main (engine mounted) oil tank reaches a certain degree of lowness the tank sensor will tell the engine computer to sound the alarm. It will also put the motor into the RPM reduction mode. A switch in the sensor assembly closes when low oil causes a float to drop to near the bottom of the sensor assembly.

In both the main oil tank and the remote tank, SWITCHES are used to SENSE a condition. In this case, the amount of oil in the respective tanks. Thus the use of the word sensor. A switch, when used to remotely sense a state or a condition can be referred to as a sensor.

Low oil in the boat mounted remote tank may activate a light or an icon on a Yamaha tachometer. It will also notify the engines computer that the remote tank is low on oil. The engine computer, being told by the sensor that the remote tank is low, will then stop the automatic transfer of oil.

The motor will continue to run normally until the main tank gets low. You can then use the toggle switch to transfer the remaining oil in the remote tank to the min tank. With oil now in the main tank the engine will operate normally. You had better start heading home to get more oil.

[marinemods]

I did notice that the main tank(engine) has two sensor / switch. I am assuming one is for level and the other is a contact switch when the tank is near empty to sound the alarm and put the engine in RPM reduction mode.

Can I simply do a continuity test to see if it is open or closed state? I will check the wiring diagram later or could you provide me the color of the wires.

Also I will check the fuel filter at the engine because the previous poster said there could be a water level switch.

Thank you all for your help.

If the main (engine mounted) oil tank reaches a certain degree of lowness the tank sensor will tell the engine computer to sound the alarm. It will also put the motor into the RPM reduction mode. A switch in the sensor assembly closes when low oil causes a float to drop to near the bottom of the sensor assembly.

In both the main oil tank and the remote tank, SWITCHES are used to SENSE a condition. In this case, the amount of oil in the respective tanks. Thus the use of the word sensor. A switch, when used to remotely sense a state or a condition can be referred to as a sensor.

Low oil in the boat mounted remote tank may activate a light or an icon on a Yamaha tachometer. It will also notify the engines computer that the remote tank is low on oil. The engine computer, being told by the sensor that the remote tank is low, will then stop the automatic transfer of oil.

The motor will continue to run normally until the main tank gets low. You can then use the toggle switch to transfer the remaining oil in the remote tank to the min tank. With oil now in the main tank the engine will operate normally. You had better start heading home to get more oil.

[boscoe99]

The main tank sensor assembly has three switches.

Top switch closing tells the motor to stop sending oil. The tank is full.

Middle switch closing tells the motor to start sending oil. The tank is needing oil.

Bottom switch closing tells the motor to sound the alarm and to go into RPM reduction mode. The tank is almost out of oil.

The float that goes up and down with the oil level activates the switches.

Blue/white is for the top switch.
Blue/green is for the middle switch.
Blue/red is for the bottom switch.

[marinemods]

Thank you for that drawing -

If I disconnect the connector and jump the Blue/White & Blue/Green (tank is full - assuming that it needs to see these switches CLOSED) to ground and the alarm goes away - then my issue is this part.

I will be at the boat tomorrow and will try this and check the water fuel/separator on the motor to see if water is present or the switch is bad.

I don't think it can be any other sensor (Cam,TPS) because that would toss an error in a diag report correct?

[rodbolt17]

NO
NO engine sensors set audibles.
only SW3,low engine oil tank, or the temp switchs or the water detect,if equipped or low battery will set an audible when running.
tps,cps,baro, will cause high idle but no audible.
audibles are set by a switch.
like you have been told yet still don't belive.
sw1 and sw2 have NOTHING to do with alarms.
simply pump on pump off, that's all folks.
if you will notice jumping L/w to L/g would do nothing.

if ANYTHING on the engine is setting an audible its going to be visible on YDS.
if its a rigging issue maybe not.

[boscoe99]

NO
NO engine sensors set audibles.
only SW3,low engine oil tank, or the temp switchs or the water detect,if equipped or low battery will set an audible when running.
tps,cps,baro, will cause high idle but no audible.
audibles are set by a switch.
like you have been told yet still don't belive.
sw1 and sw2 have NOTHING to do with alarms.
simply pump on pump off, that's all folks.
if you will notice jumping L/w to L/g would do nothing.

if ANYTHING on the engine is setting an audible its going to be visible on YDS.
if its a rigging issue maybe not.

Are you saying that neither the two or the four stroke thermosensors will sound the alarm if and when they reach a certain temperature?

[rodbolt17]

Boscoe, yes they will.

however it will also turn the status from off to on on YDS.

like I say bout that tar lapm top.
its a tool.
very good tool.

not near as good a tool what sits on top of the spinal colum.

[boscoe99]

My mistake. I read your message as saying that the thermosensor would not trigger an alarm.

[rodbolt17]

on the f200/225 the thermosensor alone wont always set an alarm.
that's why you have to jumper it with the resistor when shorting the thermoSWITCH.

the thermoSWITCH can trigger the audible if it closes but typically you wont get a visual indicate if the thermo SENSOR is in range.

some of the four stroke ovetemp alarms get a bit wild.

did a new F25 last spring that even Yamaha Kennasaw could not tell me how to test the alarm.
took me about 30 min to figure it out.
so now I know how it works .

same as some of the early F motors oil control, if you never crossed an RPM threshold of about 2100-2500 it would NOT recognize a low oil pressure indicate.

yes I actually do the steps on the PDI sheet .

[marinemods]

Thank you rodbolt17. Actually thank you to everyone.

There was water in the accumulator AND there was some orange residue in there to. Probably from standing gas. Time to drain the tank and clean it up.

Also found on the overflow of the oil tank on the motor the hose was cracked at the air filter and oil was dripping everywhere.

Important thing - No more alarm.

Another question - I guess getting the digital gauges would be something I should do. There are so many variations out there, what I want is rpm and better diagnostics. Speed not so important.

Another alternative would be

I believe this engine is NMEA 2000? I plan on upgrading to a NEW MFD is all the warning signals and rpm etc there for me on the NMEA bus?

[boscoe99]

Thank you rodbolt17. Actually thank you to everyone.

There was water in the accumulator AND there was some orange residue in there to. Probably from standing gas. Time to drain the tank and clean it up.

Also found on the overflow of the oil tank on the motor the hose was cracked at the air filter and oil was dripping everywhere.

Important thing - No more alarm. What did you do to stop the alarm?

Another question - I guess getting the digital gauges would be something I should do. There are so many variations out there, what I want is rpm and better diagnostics. Speed not so important.

Another alternative would be

I believe this engine is NMEA 2000? Nope. I plan on upgrading to a NEW MFD is all the warning signals and rpm etc there for me on the NMEA bus?

An MFD won't give you all of the cautions and warnings that a Yamaha tachometer will give you, if the motor was NMEA 2000 compatible. But, in your case, your MFD won't be seeing anything from your motor.

A Yamaha multi-function digital display tachometer will tell you when the remote tank is low, when the main tank is low and when the engine is in an over temperature condition. If and when the buzzer sounds you can look at the tachometer to know why the alarm is sounding.