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I have a 1995 Yamaha 150 TXRT that is giving me problems. Last year it would start but stall as soon as it was put in gear. I didn’t have the time or $ to fix it so it sat for a year. This year when I started to work on the boat the problem seemed to correct itself. The engine ran rough but I was able to get it in gear. I was able to put it in the boat slip. On its first trip it stalled and again wouldn’t go into gear, towed in. I noticed that one spark plug was brand new and one looked almost new and determined that one (the clean one) wasn’t getting any fuel and the almost clean one was getting very little. I pulled and cleaned the carbonators and the engine ran much better, better than it had in years, no stalling and quick starting. When traveling at high speed 40-42 RMP the engine bogged down and all the warning lights on my tachometer gage went off. The engine did not stall. After 10 seconds the lights (little triangles) stopped flashing and I could go fast again. I bought this engine used in 1999 and haven’t done anything to it besides changing the plugs, change the external fuel filter yearly, change the impeller and thermostats . I do use fuel stabilizer every winter. The engine probably has less than 400 hours on it. I checked the compression and all cylinders were in range. The plugs look a bit fouled, they are black and wet but don’t have any buildup or burning. Any ideas on why the warning indicators are going off? Thanks in advance!
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Over heating?? -
It may be but why would it resolve 10 seconds later. Also, I don't get an audible alarm, just the flashing on the tach (all systems). Not sure if that helps.
ThanksComment
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I would suspect an electrical issue. Low voltage to the CDI.
Has the warning horn been verified as working properly?Comment
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I disengaged the kill switch and tried to start the boat and the horn sounded, not sure if that is an accurate way to test it. ThanksComment
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test the oil transfer system. three bars flashing and RPM reduction,should have had an audible, indicates that SW3 is closed and SWB is closed. a quick test, carefully remove the water trap from the engine tank and drain into a suitable container. make sure the remote tank is at least 1/2 full. turn on the key you should see 3 bars flashing, an audible and the transfer pump will run up to 180 seconds. it should have refilled the engine tank and turned off by about 150 seonds.if it does not check the remote oil tank strainer.Comment
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I will give this a try over the weekend and let you know. I did notice there was a crack on the cap of my external oil tank. I replaced it but maybe some rain water got in. could that be the cause of this?
Thanks again for responding!!Comment
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If you do not keep clean oil in the system it will bite you real bad
always check the systems to make sure water and sludge does not collect in tanks, strainer is clear, and pumps work as they should, along with the alarm system
Do not just wait for things to go bad/wrong before doing maintenance that Yamaha recommendsComment
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Guilty, trying to make up for it now.Comment
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ok so I put the new fuel pumps on, no issues. I tilted the engine and drained the internal oil tank it looked clean. I also checked the lines going back to the external oil tank, I found a crack in the tank so I got a new one. When I drained it it did have a 1/2 inch of sludge on the bottom. I put everything back together and added oil 3/4 full. I tuned the key to the on position and the horn sounded instantly. After 2 min I heard the pump in the external tank start pumping and 1 1/2 min later the internal tank was at max and the pump turned off. the horn shut off as the oil level touched the bottom (min) line.Last edited by LEAD PIPE; 07-03-2015, 06:46 PM.Comment
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Why did it take the pump so long to turn on and start moving the oil? Because the system was empty did it need time to prime or something?
Also I am a bit uneasy running the engine until I verify that the engine is getting oil. How can this be done? As far as bleeding I followed the directions in the manual, turning the screw until oil started flowing, when I did this oil came out instantly. How can be no air in the system?Last edited by LEAD PIPE; 07-03-2015, 06:45 PM.Comment
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sludge in the tank on a well maintained rig???????
cant happen.
typically the pump takes 10-20 seconds to turn on when doing the test.Comment
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There was a crack in the back of the tank. Water must have gotten in. Also as I said earlier the cap cracked over the winter so I had 2 cracks in the tank. The boat was sitting for a year so I'm not sure when the issue happened. Any ideas on the bleeding and checking to see if there is oil getting to the engine?Comment
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If the main engine mounted tank has oil in it then oil is getting to the oil pump. You indicated that the pump has oil as evidenced by the oil flow when the bleed screw was opened. Oil flow from the main engine mounted oil tank to the engine driven oil pump is via gravity. Gravity never stops working. It has been working on me for 66 years now. It is winning, let me tell you.
Why are you suspecting that oil might not be getting to the engine? Or, are you?
You tested the automatic transfer system (from the boat mounted tank to the engine mounted tank) and apparently it works. No idea why it would take 2 minutes for the remote tank oil pump to turn on. As noted, it usually turns on shortly after the key has been turned on when it is in the initial oil fill mode. After you have cleaned the remote tank of any sludge, or maybe replaced the tank due to a crack, then test the system again. Maybe clean out the oil hose and the main engine mounted oil tank as well if you suspect sludge might have gotten from the remote mounted tank to the main engine mounted tank.
Might want to remove the strainer from the main engine mounted tank and clean it as well. Take care to reinstall it correctly. See diagram below.
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I cleaned the engine tank and the oil looked good. Even the nipple on the bottom was clean. all the internal parts were cleaned and that black slippery gasket was changed. I guess I am just worried about air being in the system. Where, how does it purge out when the pump is filling the tank. I just want to verify that oil is going to the engine for my own peace of mind. ThanksComment
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