1997 C40 No up trim when underway

[AReinhart]

I've been trying to solve an issue with my power trim over the last few days; it will not trim up when underway. Here are the details:

I bought the boat last week and the previous owner had said that the pump motor was getting slow so he replaced the motor.

The motor will lift all the way up and go all the way down properly when on the trailer with the engine off.

It will go up down in the water with the engine idling.

It will go up and down in gear but only at idle speed.

Anything beyond idle speed and it will trim down only. The hydraulic system makes a straining sound when I try to trim up at anything above idle. The sound is the sound of a hydraulic system pushing against something that can't move in my opinion.

The boat is a 1977 Boston Whaler 13 Sport and the engine is a 1997 Dual carb Yamaha C40. The fluid level is correct and I had my 130 pound wife stand on the aftermarket hydro foil and it lifted her and the motor out of the water. (Engine off of course)

I need to stress that the system operates perfect in every way except when trying to trim up at just a bit past idle speed. Basically, put it in gear and it's fine- 16th of an inch past that and I get the straining sound.

I ordered the shop manual and am waiting on it. However, I've been studying the part blow up diagram and it seems that there are no replaceable check valves, only assemblies except maybe 3 thru 10

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...0PR/parts.html

It almost seems to me that once there is any pressure against the system, it is locking out. Being that it operates normally in certain circumstances, I think the electrical system and switches are fine. The pump motor sounds fine and is new, plus it works as described above. The lift cylinder itself could be suspect but usually they either work or don't. It should be easier to lift up at speed anyway. The valve body, in my opinion, is where the problem lies. But I have no experience with Yamaha engines so..... I have this question posted over in a Whaler forum as well but decided that a Yamaha specific forum might be more appropriate. Any ideas?

[99yam40]

Can you post a complete Model # that is on the motor bracket?

Some motors were built power tilt but not power trim, they will do what you are saying

[ncfishhawk]

supposed to be that way

pretty sure this is a tilt only model, no trim. at least my 95 C40 is. pretty much a no frills engine setup.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can you post a complete Model # that is on the motor bracket?

His link shows a 1997 C40PLRV

[robert graham]

Maybe a quick look at the unit would reveal only a tilt ram and no double trim rams?....if it's in fact an only tilt unit....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Maybe a quick look at the unit would reveal only a tilt ram and no double trim rams?....if it's in fact an only tilt unit....

Agreed, it appears to bo only a tilt unit. NOT a trim with trim rams.

[99yam40]

Agreed, it appears to bo only a tilt unit. NOT a trim with trim rams.

He never said what motor he has, just that he looked at that parts list

and my C40TLRX is T&T but only has the one piston
so do not think that means anything.

But the model # will tell all,
if someone has not changed parts out already

[AReinhart]

This believe this motor should have that function, here are the numbers:

C40PLRV 339032W 6E9

[AReinhart]

Oh man, I just looked at the designation plrv again.....p means power tilt.....it may not have trim.....what a pos. How can you have a tilt feature that allows trim adjustment of all kinds of angles without trim.....makes no sense.So basically what you're telling me is that I need to guess where I should start at, then accelerate, if it rides wet, slow down to idle speed and keep adjusting until it's right???? Why have a remote at all? Might as well have a tiller. Etec here I come

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looking at the bracket parts fisch;

1997 C40PLRV Yamaha Outboard ALTERNATE 3 BRACKET 1 PR Diagram and Parts

Does your engine have the shaft (part #11) with the swivel end that the engine actually rests upon when fully down? There should be several adjustable holes to "trim" the motor".

I've way back, had a 75 HP Evinrude W/O any T or T. You set that rod in a position that overall, best suit your needs.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

my C40TLRX is T&T but only has the one piston
so do not think that means anything.

Tks for the info. I guess the smaller engines can get by without the separate rams... I looked at that parts fisch and saw "tilt" ONLY...

[AReinhart]

Ok, cooled off a minute. Where credit is due:

Thanks guys for taking the time to point this out to me. I would have been chasing a ghost and spending who knows what trying to fix a problem that does not exist......

Anyway, this is my first Yamaha outboard. On the few powerboats and as kicker motors on sailboats I have always had Johnson/Evinrude engines on the back. This whaler came with the Yamaha and the guy said it only has about 80 hours on it since new. Looking under the cowl it's spotless. It idles like crap, though it has never quit. I've ran 16 gallons through it so far. I ordered a set of used carbs off eBay and a carb kit so I can rebuild them on the bench and simply swap them out hanging off the back of the boat in the Marina (it's in a slip). Being this IS a Yamaha forum, is there any reason I should leave this thing hanging off the back of my nice whaler? Is this a particularly good engine that with maintenance (I'm meticulous), give me years of trouble free service? I guess I can deal with the trim or lack of if the engine is a good one that doesn't force me to cuss at it to much. Other than the carbs being gummed up (idle circuit), the only thing wrong is the cowl is faded from the sun. I've already sourced the paint and decals. It's got a nice stainless steel prop on it and seems to run the boat out well. It smokes a little but that's because I f ound out (waiting on the owners manual still) it takes 100:1 oil ratio and not 50:1 which I've been running. Better too much than too little....

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can usually get by with just cleaning the idle and main jets out from the varnish. You have to PULL them and visable look thru them. A shot of carb cleaner don't count..

Rarely do I put new parts in a carb unless their worn. The fuel nowadays, especially if you don't use a fuel stabilizer will gum up carbs (especially that sit) within a month.

Gas Shok is a very good stabilizer and Yamaha's RINGFREE works very well at keeping the fuel system and top end clean. Running 2 to 3x whats called for won't hurt anything and its ssaved me pulling carbs several times JUST running it heavy initially. I run it in EVERY GAS ENGINE I own..

If your main motor is VERY reliable and you can safely install the engine(when needed), I'd store that engine out of the weather, theives eyes, etc..

If not, having a small custom made cover for the kicker would be a good investment IMO...

I don't have a kicker, nor Sea Tow. I do have the Yamaha shop manual on board, plenty of tools (some spare parts) and enough knowledge to get me home(at least the last 36 years). If ANYTHING is borderline, it gets replaced/fixed, no questions..

[99yam40]

that old of a motor with that low of hours means it has sat up a lot.
not only can the carbs get junked up, but the shiny internal surfaces and get rust on them if it has not ben put up properly for long periods of time.
Have you check compression yet to make sure cylinders are sealing properly?

Maybe next time you buy a boat you will pay attention to the motor model #s since you know more now.
Good luck with the motor, but if it ends up a good runner you can probably sell it and get one with Power T&T.

this C40 I have now is the 1st I had with T&T and I do not think I could go back to one without

Also the 100 to 1 was gotten away from because letting the motor sitting for longer periods of time without fogging them for storage caused internal problems I mentioned already I would stay with the 50 to 1

[AReinhart]

"Pay attention to the model number"

For sure. 13 whalers in fully restored condition with a low hour engine and nice trailer are hard to find for 4.5k. I jumped on this one pretty quick. When the guy says power trim motor and it goes up and down when testing it on the trailer, I didn't look into it further. My 11' Super Sport that I had years ago had a late 80's 20 hp Johnson on the back and it had a trim function that worked just fine. There was only two buttons on the remote.....up and down......To be honest, I never would have thought a motor, 40 hp, made as a remote motor, would come without power trim when equipped with power tilt. Coming from a sailboat guy that seems pretty damn cheap to me. Of all the ways to save money when buying a new motor.....lack of that function seems crazy, like buying a radio with no volume control.......