Fuel Filter Bowl

[Kirk Gibson]

Twin F150s, (2008 & 2010)
I was de-winterizing both yesterday, new fuel/water separators, oil, etc. and checked both with new YDS. Everything was normal and both engines ran great, just as they did when I put them up last winter.
I did notice one thing I hadn't before, on one engine (2008) the fuel bowl, while idling, would drain down to half way, about even with the bottom of the filter. I could then pump it back up with the bulb and it would hold at full for a little while (about a minute) then go back down to half way.
The engine runs smooth and has never given me any problems except for a slight shake at idle that the other engine doesn't do. I was thinking the shaking could have been caused by maybe it needing to be synched & linked better, but now I'm thinking maybe the fuel system is sucking air somewhere and at higher speeds the air suction is overcome and it runs ok.
The other engine's fuel bowl stays full allways at idle, and it appears to have a small white check valve before the fuel bowl where as the other doesn't.
Anybody else ever have this problem? Why is one one way and not like the other? Or is the one that stays full in the wrong? I am awaiting new filters for the bowls maybe that's all it is.
I think I will start checking fuel lines on that side today.
Any thoughts appreciated.
UPDATE:
I swapped fuel lines (at the primer bulbs) and the 2008 still runs half full at the bowl so I wouldn't think it is anything from the tank through the primer bulbs.
I am probably just being a little paranoid about the differences since they both run great, but I just don't want a potential problem sneaking up on me 15 miles off shore (of course that's the beauty of twin engines ...right? lol)
Things will probably match (one way or another) after I change the filters.
I bought the boat new (it actually belonged to the owner of the boat manufacturer but was never titled) but the engines had 90 hrs on them. They claim to have done a 100 hr. service on them but I doubt they did anything more than change the oil. Anyway these filters look pretty dark so I thought it is about time for me to change them. I have always changed the fuel/water separators every season along with all the oils etc. Luckily I can find no trace of water anywhere (nothing in the separators or VST tank or fuel bowl) and the gas looks real clean out of the VST.
Will a pair of channel locks work ok on the bowls or should I take them off and do the freezer thing I have been reading about?
Thanks for any help guys.

[rodbolt17]

those filter cups typically show about 1/2 full when running.
its normal.

[Kirk Gibson]

OK

Thanks Rodbolt, so since the other stays full would that be a sign that the filter is way too dirty?

[Kirk Gibson]

Update

The freezer trick didn't work so I called the local dealer to inquire about the update.
The dealer told me that Yamaha approved installing the updated cups
on both of my engines. Hopefully they won't swell as much and the next change may be easier. We will see ...some say there is no difference others say there is so we will see.
But the dealer said Yamaha wants them to install them so I can't just take them the cups I have to tow the boat 35 miles each way.
I am still puzzled as to why one cup would stay full and the other not while at idle. (Rodbolt says the 1/2 full cup is normal)
Any thoughts?
Thanks guys.

[bajakeith]

Umm ??

I don't understand...my small mind cant get around that you can hook up your boat..drive 70 miles round trip.. your gonna let them talk you into replaceing you fuel bowl ??? what I'm I missing here ????

[Kirk Gibson]

Yes, you don't understand

First off nobody talked me into anything.

- I need to change my fuel filters.
-The bowls are frozen onto the housing period.
-The consensus among many is that it is due to ethanol.
-Freezing the whole thing to get it off didn't work.
-There is an updated bowl from Yamaha.
-They are paying to have them installed.

So, what are you missing?

[99yam40]

don't let others get you upset, life is too short as it is

[rodbolt17]

there is no "updated bowl" chunk that thought.

those filter cups are about 125 bucks a shot.

yep they swell.
not the first ones I ever had to remove the housing assy, lock the housing in a vice and use a strap wrench to remove.

sometimes it destroys the threads.

most times once removed you simply let them sit on the bench overnight and they will go back on.

Yamaha will replace messed up ones on motors under warrenty.

[Kirk Gibson]

Newer bowl

I guess I should have said newer bowl...
Rodbolt, I wonder why they decided to make the newer bowl different, with ribs going down the sides and the plastic seems different too...has a greenish tint??
It may not be an official "update" but it seems they would have done that for a reason wouldn't they? Why would they change the bowl design?
Thanks

[rodbolt17]

designs do tend to change, so did the filter part number.
the biggest change was the epoxy used to hold the water detect switch in place.

[Kirk Gibson]

Design

Do the ribs going down the sides make it easier to grip to get it off I wonder?
Yes while I was trying to get off one of the old bowls the switch probe just fell out into my hand. Looks like it was being held in the cup by red RTV. Must be a magnetic switch huh?

[boscoe99]

The filter system on the F150 has changed several times.

First versions of the F150 did not use a water in fuel sensor and used a ring to attach the filter cup to the filter head.

In 2006 the fuel filter was redesigned whereby a sensor was added to the filter cup and the filter cup screwed directly into the filter head. Cup part number was 6P3-WS24B-00-00.

In 2008 the cup was changed to part number changed to 6P3-24562-01-00. Note that this part number has been changed from its original design from a -00-00 to a -01-00.

In 2009 the cup part number changed again to 6P3-24562-02-00.

In 2011 the cup part number changed again to 6P3-24562-03-00.

Design changes were made to improve the sensor and the cup material itself. The sensor was failing and would provide a false alert. The cup was swelling due to ethanol which made it a bitch to remove.

Since the part number now has not been changed for about 4 years lets hope that Yamaha has finally gotten it right. That or it is the best that it can be.

Yamaha has been known to goodwill the latest filter cups to those that are in need of them. Sounds like they are doing that for you. Depending upon ones relationship with the dealer, the dealer can either obtain the filter cups and send them to you in the mail or he might want the motor brought in so that he can do the work himself. One reason why it pays to be on good terms with a local dealer.

Yamaha even offers a wrench to help remove a stuck filter cup.

Yamaha Fuel Filter Water Cup Seperator Wrench

[Kirk Gibson]

Thanks

Yes, I saw so many revisions while reading about this problem.
Seems like Yamaha is paying for the cups and labor for my dealer to install them. I, of course, will have to pay for the filters.

I tried getting the old bowls off by freezing for 4 hrs., quickly chucking it up in a vise, and using a large pair of channel locks (padded the bowl with a rubber glove) and it wouldn't budge. I knew it would destroy the bowl (and possibly the housing) if I had put any more pressure on it, so it's not like I didn't put enough pressure to it.

Yes, I have seen the wrench. Outrageous price for a tool which you shouldn't need for regular maint.
I wonder if it works on the latest version with the ribs going down the side of the cup?

[99yam40]

I would think that is what the cut outs are for, grab the ribs

[Kirk Gibson]

ribs

Old style looks to have the short ribs at the top of the bowl only. New version looks to have long vertical ribs going down the side ....just was wondering if the wrench for the old style also lines up with the new style.

Here is a pic of the new style.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachme...p-img_2047.jpg