inlet manifold gasket/50 hp DETO year questions

[waterdoggy]

My 50 hp 2 stroke DETO's inlet manifold gasket is torn at the starboard side strip above the lowest opening, and also around the top surface of that lowest opening.
Would it be risky to make a gasket, or 3 individual gaskets to seal the carburetors to the manifold?
The local dealer is busy, and said by phone that the gasket couldn't be ordered without the engine's year number, which is unknown.
The serial plate is
http://superfly.co.nz/Yamaha50/serial.jpg
and the engine with cowl removed is shown here
http://superfly.co.nz/Yamaha50/motorexposed.jpg
and engine with cowl on is shown here:
http://superfly.co.nz/Yamaha50/motorwellmotor.jpg

Any help identifying the year, or advice on the gasket, would be greatly appreciated.

[greasyshaft]

The serial code is more accurate for identifying the year of manufacture, the letter is just a shortcut.

Does part 23 look very similar?? as far as I understand the "50E" is the american equivalent of the "50D"

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...AKE/parts.html

[waterdoggy]

The serial code is more accurate for identifying the year of manufacture, the letter is just a shortcut.

Does part 23 look very similar?? as far as I understand the "50E" is the american equivalent of the "50D"

1984 50ETLN Yamaha Outboard INTAKE Diagram and Parts

Yes, part 23 looks like the gasket I saw 2 days ago, when I washed and re-installed the carburetors.
I may have done the damage to the gasket, trying to re-bolt the 3 'linked' carburetors.
After 8 months bolted to the garage wall, the airbox spewed out fuel when I squeezed the bulb, and washing the floats and all carburetor pieces seemed to solve that problem.
During the motor re-connection, the outer nut on the starter motor's + bolt went missing. During the carburetor removal, the tiny rubber O ring that retains the wire from the choke solenoid and one of the 3 chromed oil tank bolt bushings also went missing. I heard the nut and bushing land at the bottom of the machinery, but can't see either in there...the O ring could have bounced anywhere, but the solenoid wire seems easily retained with a tiny split pin.
The local dealer has 'guessed' the year number OK for a replacement oil tank cap, and I think part 23 must fit a range of years.
And it's only $3.52 from boats.net...but $47 for postage, so I'll wait for the (busy) dealer to reply, if ever, to my email.
Or I may try some cork sheet material that I have.
Thanks for the "D" to "E" (for USA) explanation.

[JohnOrrett]

Looks like an '84 or '85 model