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  • How long's too long...

    ...to let an engine sit between runs?

    I haven't winterized my engines more than once or twice in the last 25 years and I haven't lost one yet nor suffered any cylinder rust issues that I am aware of. This based upon seasonal compression checks.

    There are two reasons for this, 1) the winter striped bass and speck fishing can be great in Virginia Beach and 2) that's when the humpbacks show up. But as you might expect the engines do sit a spell between outings because of how my work schedule dovetails with decent enough weather to venture out. I have generally used 30 days as the maximum for a whole host of reasons, the number one being the boat is 20 or so mins away and I don't typically have a hose to run them once the hard freeze has gotten here. So, it's a pain to hook the boat up and back it down the ramp when it's freezing a$$ cold out. And, the older I get the lazier I get. And I'm pretty old and it's a pretty big boat. It all adds up to my sitting on the couch instead.

    I always perform an oil change and general maintenance late in the season so the engines sit with fresh oil in them and the boat is ready to go in the spring. ​​​​​​I wonder if simply disconnecting the kill switch and cranking each engine over two or three times (for 10-15 seconds each) ought to go a long way to keeping some fresh oil on the internals, particularly the cylinder walls. Are 15 seconds long enough to generate some oil movement within the engine without causing excessive heat buildup in the starters? I installed a pretty big solar panel to keep the batteries topped off so Voltage should not be a problem over the winter. I add a good whack of Startron Fuel Enzyme and Marine Stabil right about this time of year.

    Am I smoking ganja or is this a reasonable option to helping keep $40 grand in the bank as opposed to hanging it on my transom?
    There are boats in my hood that sit all winter without a peep and without any winterization and they're still running.



    What do you say, smart guys?

  • #2
    I try to run the motor at least once a month during the winter. FWIW, I use synthetic oil. Some claim it does a better job of “coating” the internals. Makes me feel better anyhow.

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    • #3
      I think cranking the engine with freezing cold oil in it is one of the harshest things you can do to an engine. Yes, that will get some oil to pump when you crank it a few times, but why not just fog it between the times you run it? If you don't have to crank the engine cold, I wouldn't.
      2011 F50TLR, 2010 G3 V167C

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      • #4
        If you are using them at least every thirty days,,,I wouldn't worry about it a bit.

        Also cranking the engine over requires water to be hooked up (so your nice new impellers wont be damaged) so why would you not just start them anyway?

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        • #5
          Agreed, I wouldn't crank it W/O starting every month. Most of your internal, engine wear IS on start up..

          If starting/running once a month is the limit, I think you'll be fine..

          If any doubt, you can spray some "storage fog" down the TB intake when you know you won't be back for quite awhile..
          The engines already been run, is warm and your just pulling the cowl for the fog.. A cheap and easy enough procedure for definite protection..
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            I don't think 30 days of sitting is something to worry about. Especially in the Winter where the air is much dryer (less humidity in the air). I agree - I definitely wouldn't be cranking without water hooked up -at least not for more than a few seconds - but those few seconds aren't going to be enough to circulate the oil. Some newer engines have sensors in the intake path that can "possibly" be fouled by spraying foggin oil into the intake - I'm not sure what engines you have and whether that is true for them - but I know it's true for some Merc's. Something relatively easy/quick that you could do (if spraying into the intake is not good)... remove the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil into the cylinder that way. Then replace the plugs, pull the kill switch and crank for a couple seconds. Those couple seconds won't harm the impeller - especially if you do this right after you've run the engine as the impeller housing will still be wet.
            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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            • #7
              '05 F225 / LF225

              It's a PITA to launch and I usually don't have hose water available in the winter. Those are the main two reasons that complicate my winter layover regimen. Weather is the third.

              Thank you for your input.

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