2006 Yamaha F115 power trim bleeding

[stuff2c!]

Ok, I give... this bleeding of the power trim is killing me!

I have replace all the fluid in the trim unit, with the caps removed I filled the trim and tilt unit and replaced the caps.

I had to replace the O-rings between the motor and the unit itself to repair a leak (Seems like something major for a mostly freshwater 130 hr Engine), the rest is a long story, but be very careful with the check valve ball.

So here is the issue:
I have the unit FULL of fluid and bled (sort of) I can still hear air gurgling at certain points in its motion when I run the motor. The engine WILL go all the way up... BUT WILL NOT go down under power. I have to open the bypass to get the engine to drop.
Once in the full down position I can get the trim (range only) to go up and its ****ey to come back down. Once in the TILT range, it will no longer return to DOWN motion. I have to use to release to lower the engine then it will raise to full range, but again will not lower.

I have lifted the motor manually with the bypass open several times (this is when I wish I had 2 boys instead of 2 girls and the kids next door just left for the ARMY) NOT an easy lift by yourself.

So it's been sitting in the down position for a day now resting so maybe any air I have introduced by using the motor may purge itself.

Any suggestions before I go out there and practice deadlifting the YAMAHA 115?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When you top off the fluid, do you have the engine fully raised, ALL RAMS fully extended, and the engine resting on the mechainical linkage? (manual release closed)

[stuff2c!]

Should I raise the engine and rest it then open the release or leave it closed? I used the "hold the up button" method to suck as much fluid in as possible.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should I raise the engine and rest it then open the release or leave it closed? I used the "hold the up button" method to suck as much fluid in as possible.

The engine has to be fully up, resting on the manual hold up bracket. The manual release should be closed when filling/topping off.

All the rams FULLY extended. Then you can pull the fill plug and top off.

You likely will have to do this several times, preferably using the electric pump only.

If its NOT on the mechanical linkage and you remove the fill plug, pressure will blow fluid out...

Please post how it goes and good luck

[stuff2c!]

I'm not one to give up but this thing is trying my last nerve.

I tried everything I have read and lots of stuff I haven't... it still goes up but not down and I still hear some air in there at certain spots.

I called a guy at the Yamaha dealer and he says he bleeds his on the bench. I didn't have the nerve to ask him what the procedure was he used without giving him $$ for his time, so its off to the dealer tomorrow and let them finish the job I guess I should have let them do in the first place.

I'd be a little more bullheaded if I didn't have plans to use it this weekend.

[stuff2c!]

Because I'm hardheaded, I plan on cracking open the pistons again and trying to reload the fluid and try and get as much air out as possible (again).


To be Continued...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Nothing wrong with saving a couple (more than a couple) bucks.

Please post if there was any secret/shortcut to it if your successful. Heck if you watch the guy bleed yours (and post) if need be, please post!!


Good luck!

[rodbolt17]

no trim down is typically a valving issue in the pump.
that unit is a pain to bleed but your description doesn't lead me down the bleeding path.

[stuff2c!]

well that could make sense since I did have to remove the motor to replace the O-rings to repair the leak. I did take pictures of the way the valves were installed (I'm big on that now that cell phones have cameras). I did post that (in another thread) I had dropped the ball into the journal out of one of the valves and that was the reason for the complete removal of all three pistons. I did find the ball in the furthest barrel.

I did get all the valves (3 total) reinstalled as they were and could still hear air in the system. After multiple bleeding attempts I caved in

I guess I will find out today, I removed the complete unit last night and dropped it off at the shop this morning. he said he would get it back to me today...

I will post the results

[stuff2c!]

So I just got a call from the shop and he says all is good

He says he almost always rebuilds them and bleeds them on the bench. when I pick it up I will try and ask what the procedure is. If he shares it I will also be more than happy to do the same here. Anything I can do to help the next DIY'r not have to share my frustration.

I will be installing it tonight and hopefully all is good to go.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Waiting to hear how it goes!!

[stuff2c!]

well I bet you can guess what I did as soon as I got home...

It's all installed and wha-la... It does the exact same thing ##%^$@*%&
it WILL go up all the way using the motor
It WILL NOT come down without using the bypass
It WILL (after you drop it with the bypass) trim up and down, but once you hit the tilt cycle it WILL NOT come back down under power it just runs the motor.

ok so here is my next plan

[stuff2c!]

This is where I need some EXPERT advice.... before I pull it all a part again

there are only 3 valves in between the motor and the housing

only ONE can be installed backwards

If you look at the diagram below you will see the BALL valve that consists of a valve body a pin and a ball. #27, 28, 29

I need to know the orientation of this valve

PLEASE... this is the Only one I could have put together and installed wrong

[stuff2c!]

And BTW THANKS for all the help so far

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Rodbolt will have to answer that, I have no idea.

If I had it in front of me, I could probably figure it out...