Ignition switch issue??

[TownsendsFJR1300]

2006 F150, with the below pictured ignition switch.

Maybe once a month, after the boats been sitting awhile (W/O being started), I'll go out and crank it up on the muffs.

Occasionally, initially turning the key to CRANK, I get nothing. Gauge's work normally, just no crank. No solenoid click.

*Releasing the key to run, then turning the key to CRANK again, it ALWAYS CRANKS normally (and starts-even warm, JUST OVER TIME apparently)...


NOTE, I had replaced the starter solenoid about two years ago (disassembly DID show the internal contacts burnt).

*I'm suspecting, being 12 years old, the contact in the ignition switch (for crank), may be worn, dirty (but again, it starts on the second try-always).
Battery passes load testing, connections at the battery spotless with dielectric grease applied there.

Thoughts on the issue? Would spritzing some electrical cleaner or LPS in the key hole help?

Or simply ignition switch replacement?


Just trying to stay ahead of a potential issue on the water. Thanks...



*I do know how to jump start the solenoid so by-passing the switch at a "non CRANK time" can be done..

[fairdeal]

I suppose there is some slight chance that the issue is intermittent contact in the neutral switch,
since the juice has to pass through it, on the way to the starting relay.
(that's what you changed years ago, yes? not the starter solenoid)

But IMO most likely sketchy contact inside the ignition switch.

An unfortunate design; electrical contacts down in the bottom,
a slot where the key goes facing upwards towards the sky.

I have zero faith in that little rubber slotted gizmo keeping rain and contamination out.
When I don't have the key in,
I put a plastic "Caplug" over the keyswitch opening.

[panasonic]

This stuff works good, not cheap but a can will last you for years. Cleans and lubes.

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-C.../dp/B001U3X3PA

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suppose there is some slight chance that the issue is intermittent contact in the neutral switch,
since the juice has to pass through it, on the way to the starting relay.
(that's what you changed years ago, yes? not the starter solenoid) THAT IS CORRECT, MY BOO.. SWAPPED OUT 4-11-14

But IMO most likely sketchy contact inside the ignition switch.

An unfortunate design; electrical contacts down in the bottom,
a slot where the key goes facing upwards towards the sky.

I have zero faith in that little rubber slotted gizmo keeping rain and contamination out.
When I don't have the key in,
I put a plastic "Caplug" over the keyswitch opening.

It was the starter relay I changed out, not the solenoid (rechecking my records). Back then, it would only click, (NO CRANK) MANY TIMES (approx. 5 TIMES) before it would crank..

Re the neutral switch, I literally don't move / touch anything, just release the key and turn again and she cranks..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This stuff works good, not cheap but a can will last you for years. Cleans and lubes.

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-C.../dp/B001U3X3PA

I think this is the same, correct (cheaper and quicker shipping)?:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemical...IAAOSwDZ9bwafr

Just a squirt or two to the key hole and move the switch several times (battery disconnected?)



(Checking spec's on both, it is the same stuff..)

Just ordered, will update but likely will be awhile (takes time to act up). Tks guys..

[panasonic]

Put some in and move the key many times... it will either fix it or it wont. LOL

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This stuff works good, not cheap but a can will last you for years. Cleans and lubes.

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-C.../dp/B001U3X3PA

Just an FYI.

The straw does fit all the way down into the ignition switch(about 1"). Time will tell how well / if the switch was the issue but so far, it's fine.


*I would add this product works EXREMLY WELL.. It does leave a very light film -feels like a very light oil.

Used it on two volume switch's, one on a small radio outside under cover by the boat lift- It had major "crackling" when the switch was used(been years this way). NOT anymore, no crackling, works 200% better than before...

Second stereo is the garage, AIWA stereo. The volume dial on that would NOT lower in years (had to use the remote). It now WORKS! It's easily been 10 years since it's worked correctly.


BTW, the nozzle on the can is ADJUSTABLE. Increase / decrease flow by turning the "push button" in a direction shown by the arrow atop the can...

[99yam40]

I had no idea WD40 made all of these cleaners also.
saw it when looking at those posted up above

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spray-Equip...75.c100623.m-1

[panasonic]

Just an FYI.

The straw does fit all the way down into the ignition switch(about 1"). Time will tell how well / if the switch was the issue but so far, it's fine.


*I would add this product works EXREMLY WELL.. It does leave a very light film -feels like a very light oil.

Used it on two volume switch's, one on a small radio outside under cover by the boat lift- It had major "crackling" when the switch was used(been years this way). NOT anymore, no crackling, works 200% better than before...

Second stereo is the garage, AIWA stereo. The volume dial on that would NOT lower in years (had to use the remote). It now WORKS! It's easily been 10 years since it's worked correctly.


BTW, the nozzle on the can is ADJUSTABLE. Increase / decrease flow by turning the "push button" in a direction shown by the arrow atop the can...

Yes it works very good. I found out about it when I was rebuilding my old 60's Fender Guitar Amp. Cleaned all the scratchy pots perfectly. Have used it for many things since then...relays, ignition switches..ect

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, that contact cleaner seems to have worked on the ignition switch. (Thanks Panasonic for that link).

Both radios are still working fine (good stuff).


Battery died (on the lift) after about 7 years so replaced that. Cranking voltage is MUCH higher now.
12 volts cranking now (cold start) vs 10 or so before.