Yamaha Two Stroke Pump going bad?

[Ddingman]

I really hope someone on this forum can help me because i'm about to go crazy here. My 1996 200 Yamaha Pro V has been leaking fresh two stroke into the cowl for over a year. I have checked every possible source for the leak and narrowed it down to one line that connects to the oil pump mounted to the block. I checked the reservoir mounted to the block for cracks, checked the cap on that, checked the lines that run to the silencer box near the carbs, everything was good. I cleaned everything up and narrowed it down to one line that connects to one of the brass fittings on the pump that was slowly seeping two stroke out, rather the engine was running or not. Once i realized this I went ahead and changed all the oil lines out, still leaking. So then I thought maybe it was the metal clamp that connects at the brass fitting, not it, still seeping. I reinforced the line with two zipties at the brass fitting and got them as tight as possible, slowed it down a little, but it is still seeping out. Is there something that goes bad with these brass nipples that anybody has heard of. Everyone I have spoke with about this says they have never heard of anyone having to replace one of these pumps. Hope someone on here has experienced a similar problem that could help me out, I would REALLY appreciate it.
Thanks,
Ddingman

[panasonic]

Please post a picture if you can.

Brass fitting hairline crack or fitting slightly loose in pump body.

Can you very carefully twist the brass fitting with a pair of pliers to see if it is loose?

[Ddingman]

I'll have to take it off to get a good pick and don't have time with work this week. I will check to see if I can tighten it a little with some pliers or see a hairline crack. Have you heard of those issues with these pumps before?

[pstephens46]

I guess anything is possible with a 20+ year old motor.

[Jason2tpa]

If you store engine tilted up it's possible oil can leak from carb throat

[FabricGATOR]

I think the first step should... well I would try to determine or at least narrow down the source. Perhaps a few strategically placed oilsorb pads and check them regularly over a period of time (often). It may be more than one leak.

Are you moored or trailered?

How I approach it would be dependent on that if I could wash the engine down with solvent and dry with shop air.
BrakeKleen aerosol cans are good for oily engine parts washdown (I prefer non-chlorinated [*especially in a cut finger or splash in eye*... don't ask])
Eastman, SnapOn, or even Harbor Freight has a venturi wand that also works well with Mineral spirits and compressor air.
Moored VS trailered being 'can I contain the washdown from entering the waterway?'

Another trick I learned years ago is crack developer.... Napa and other type suppliers have a three aerosol can system for finding/inspection for cracks in a weld. It is a dye penetrant and one of the spray cans is 'developer' basically a spray on dry powder that will reveal where a crack is harboring retained dye (or in this case OIL) Napa sells just a single can of dye pen developer without the need for purchase a complete kit. Welding supply store or online too.

Clean your suspect part good and dry with a solvent and dry thoroughly. Spray developer on part and watch for it to seep oil residue. If test is positive, then perform the test again, as perhaps it was not as clean as you had thought.

Another thought is that you said TyWrap... Those flat stamp steel hose clamps work better than tywrap for exerting 360º even pressure around the hose, where a tywrap has a flat spot at the 'buckle', but should not really be an issue if you used quality tubing.

Now, I do have a tywrap on my onboard (undercowling) oil tank rubber cap/level sensor. That stopped my oily cowl seal troubles.

Please return and let us know how it goes and what works. Your feedback will help others who may search this forum for this same problem.
Cheers!