Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

S250TXRX Problem (Rodbolt help me!)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • S250TXRX Problem (Rodbolt help me!)

    Today in the process of attempting to insert the grommet in a new pressure control valve I goofed and the grommet fell into the cooling passages behind the exhaust cover. As a result I had to remove the cover to recover the grommet. In the process unfortunately two bolts sheared off. One in the middle of the the cover and one at the bottom center of the cover.

    Here's the problem. I could attempt a drill out of the one in the middle and try to either insert a helicoil or perhaps extract the bolt. The bottom one can not be drilled because there is not clearance due to the bottom cowl.

    God I don't want to try to remove the engine from the midsection.

    I'm wondering if there's any way I can close the hole at the bottom of the cover and get by without a bolt there or maby even do the same with the one in the middle area.

    I've added a pic of each for clarity.

    What are my options here? I may try to add photo's tomorrow.

    A new block is out of the question at ~$4K.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by steamin53; 06-29-2014, 06:04 PM. Reason: Add Photos

  • #2
    wish you would have posted BEFORE attacking.
    its just to simple to bend a coat hanger wire and fish it back out.

    I had a friend years ago that broke one off like that.
    he drilled a 1/2 howl through the cowl and bought a long drill bit of the correct tap size and drilled it that way and JB welded the hole in the cowl.
    other than that its powerhead removal time.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm with your logic. I tried a wire to fish it out but couldn't reach it. Once the cover was removed it was obvious I never could have recovered it. It looked like when to recover it initially I wound up pushing it up into a crevice area.

      Can you spell DUMMY ?

      Comment


      • #4
        What do you think about plugging the bolt hole in the cover perhaps by JB Welding the original bolt head in it or if perhaps even welding it closed and then using some of the grey silicone sealant of the type used on auto systems these days along with a new gasket to seal the perimeter of the cover. That stuff seals automotive water pumps etc. without a gasket.

        Do you think there is any chance it might still seal by doing that without the one perimeter bolt that I can't get access to; or maybe even both of them as they're not close together?

        Comment


        • #5
          I know I have fished over 100 over the years with never having to pull that cover.
          its a captive and cannot go anywhere.

          dunno, never tried to run one without all the bolts in place.

          I can tell you if you get much water spray under the hood it can and will destroy a power head.

          Comment


          • #6
            Any idea how many PSI are developed below the plate when the engine is underway at full power?

            Comment


            • #7
              Also would you share your techniques for freeing corroded bolts/broken studs... use of heat... mapp or propane (or OXY)... use of penetrants and what type seem to work the best. I may try to drill and use an easy-out or some such if possible on at least one of the bolts.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by steamin53 View Post
                Also would you share your techniques for freeing corroded bolts/broken studs... use of heat... mapp or propane (or OXY)... use of penetrants and what type seem to work the best. I may try to drill and use an easy-out or some such if possible on at least one of the bolts.
                I've recently discovered "PB Blaster" is an excellent penetrant, WAY better than any "liquid wrench" (which I used for years).

                As posted above, agreed with drilling the outside cowl then attacking that bolt with a reverse drill and easy out. Just don't break the easy out or the bit in the bolt..


                If your not comfy with any of the procedures, a machine shop (still going to have to drill a hole in the housing) will be able to repair both holes. Shouldn't be too expensive and these guys do it all the time...
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                Comment


                • #9
                  DO NOT EVER EVER use an easy out.
                  its a recipe for disaster.
                  I can drill a broken bolt.
                  I cannot drill a broken easy out.

                  neither can anyone else.
                  once you break off the easy out the ONLY way to extract it is either a tap burner or welding something to it and trying to back out the easy out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I had to look up tap burner, interesting stuff they have now adays

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                      I had to look up tap burner, interesting stuff they have now adays
                      That "Tap burner" is very slick. That'd take out a broken "Easy out" out as well...

                      Re the "Easy out", agreed when they break, your in deeper crap.

                      IMO, using it judiciously and knowing when to stop when progress is not being made is the key. A broken drill bit in the same hole is just a bitch as the broken easy out.
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        broken drill bits and broken taps are why I bill 100 a hole to drill and tap.
                        quality drill bits will only make so many holes and quality taps only tap so many holes then you chunk them and buy new.
                        they aint cheap.

                        nowdays???
                        I ran a tap burner in the mid 80's that was made in the late 50's.
                        what a monotonous boring job that was.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I had no idea they have been around that long

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X