C40TLRX gear box drive shaft seals replacement

[99yam40]

Yes that is what I will try to start out with,

the post that disappeared came back (#10)
that says I pressure tested and it .
and held at 10PSI, but at 13 it leaked at all shaft seals

[zenoahphobic]

Remember, for those that are reading this, extremely low pressure should be used, as I believe a fully new unit would probably also leak in those places that 99yam has found when you use those pressures; a couple of PSI was the consensus I thought.
Using a high pressure pump and a correspondingly high reading or insensitive gauge, together with a slow switch off, runs the risk of blowing the seals out or inside out.

[zenoahphobic]

And I think when a little water is found, it probably was sucked in by contraction when the lower unit gets dipped into cold water.
After an outboard has run and is stopped and raised it's temperature will rise from the stored heat from running friction and/or from the exhaust heat that had passed through the prop hub; and then is lowered again the air inside cools and contracts creating a lower pressure forcing the water that is at higher Bosconian pressure in.

[99yam40]

manual says to pressure test at 14.2 psi.
mine held at 10 but failed below the spec pressure.
and I had water getting in not just once.

I have to find a way to stop the water, so new seals and some plastic housings along with some o rings is where I start.
after 20 years I hope the shafts , bearing , and races are still good.
I have no idea what has been done or not been done to this motor before I got my hands on it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As you've had the engine for years, have maintained it, can verify no water prior to this and, the unit worked fine (you caught the leak early), I seriously doubt you'll find any bearing damage.

Of course it doesn't hurt to check but it's been good all this time, (no sloppiness, shifting issues, etc). Rubber goes away with time, SS seal springs fail / break. You caught it early..

[99yam40]

very true, I have had it for a lot more years then I was thinking,
but there were 2 owners before me.

Made 70 lbs of deer and pork sausage yesterday , brother cold smoked it last night.
I need to head back over there and cook the 10lbs of Summer sausage and collect my 1/2 of the links and package and freeze.
Hope to get back on the lower unit tomorrow to see if I can get the prop shaft seals out without hurting anything.

[walleye1]

Pull the carrier there are o rings around it, if need be use heat with mapp gas.

[walleye1]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_US218_.jpg

[99yam40]

I do not see how that puller would work on this C40.
I set up on like the manual shows(harmonic balancer type puller)

I will take my chances replacing the shaft seals only for now and see what happens

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I do not see how that puller would work on this C40.
I set up on like the manual shows(harmonic balancer type puller)

I will take my chances replacing the shaft seals only for now and see what happens

Agreed, might be opening a can of worms should that carrier break being 20 years old. I wouldn't touch it (remove) un-less absolutely necessary..

Just my 2cts..

[walleye1]

Turn the arms around. An auto parts store will loan out one.

[zenoahphobic]

Most likely it won't fit. The prongs will be too big, and the centre bolt certainly won't fit "over and on" a driveshaft, prop shaft or gear rod.

[99yam40]

the main problem is there is no place for arms to hook onto facing in or out.
Have to grab the web.

I have pulled the bigger carriers that have the claw nut.
But I rigged up to pull them with the prop shaft threads and braced against the housing itself.

this C40 is way different.

Big a$$ slide hammer maybe, and someway to hold the lower unit from moving with out damaging it

[walleye1]

I have pulled a lot of them using that type of puller.

[99yam40]

I went out and looked again and there does look like a lip along the inside of the outside diameter of that carrier that that puller might catch good enough on,
the puller I rigged up put a lot of pressure on the carrier hooked to the web from the inside shaft area and the outside that is in contact with the lower housing, but I did not put heat on the housing.
but I will try to replace prop shaft seals without pulling the carrier to see how that goes 1st.