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What about check the sensor on the exterior container to see if it is working or fill the bottle to the upper level mark?
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ok.
no spatter gunning.
we will call the tank that is remotely mounted in the hull the remote tank.
it contains a pump and a switch.
the wire colors is black,this is the ground for the tach icons and the ECU to know if sufficient oil is aavalible for auto transfer.
black red goes back to the engine harness. here it is spliced and the wire color typically changes.
green/black to the ECU and green or green white going to the tach.
brown is key on 12 V. it is spliced to the yellow about 6 inches past the 10 pin engine connector.
the pump brown lead can be tested.
locate the emergency oil transfer switch on the ECU or beside the engine oil tank.
with the key on does the pump run when the switch is toggled.
if it does not test for 12V with the key on engine off from the brown wire at the engine harness connector to the blue wire at the manual switch with the switch off then on. use paper clips and jumper leads,slip the clip into the backside of the connector.
DO NOT pierce the wire.
with the key switch on and the engine off from brown to the engine block should read 12V.
now move to the blue wire at the bullet connector by the manual switch.
from the blue wire to engine ground you should see about 11V.
toggle the switch,you should see less than .5v
to test the engine oil tank switch drain the engine oil tank via the water trap.
unplug the switch and carefully remove it.
now with a multi meter on Ohms or diode function test as follows
float all the way up blue/white to black 0 ohms.
float about half way down . blue/green to black 0 ohms.
with float all the way down blue/red to black 0 ohms.
on the engine harness oil tank connection check black to engine block.
IF you remove the engine oil tank switch assy YOU MUST retrieve the seal and replace it with a new one.
failure to RETRIVE the seal can result in catastrophic engine failure from lack of oil.
Mayte can translate if nessasary, that is what she does for a living.
Mayre is going to scan and copy pages 2-37 thru 2-47 of the 2005 marine technical guide.
NO PARTS should be randomly changed until verified it is bad.
without a solid understanding of PBS your simply sunk.
it fails more master techs than about any other section because a lot of things are happening and if one piece quits the system quits.
I happen to have been through about 3 yrs of navy electronics training and spent time as a CIWS tech on a US destroyer,DDG-51.
to some PBS and EFI is a bit overwhelming, try a resolver issue or a wave guide arc detect issue cause some iidjot hung a metal coat hanger on the wave guide.
since 1998 I have seen exactly 2 OX66 ECU failures on the oil control. both were due to a faulty pump motor.
the ECU MUST see a pulser coil signal for auto transfer to work.
to test the system or for initial fill there must be sufficient oil in the remote tank and the far left bar lit.
then empty the engine tank via the water trap.
the tach should now display 3 bars flasing and the ECU grounds the remote tank blue wire for 180 seconds.
this test should be done periodically as the 3.1L oil switch in the engine tank is funky.
at the end of the engine tank switch on the 3.1L motors there is a 4 leaf clover shaped piece of rubber.
it centers the switch.
over time the petals will curl up and prevent SW3{switch that controls the alarm} not to close and the motor is destroyed cause it ran compleatly out of oil.
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and for the last time, well most lily not.
there are NO sensors for oiling on that system.
there are 4 switchs that just like the light in the ceiling are either on or off.
open=off
closed = on.
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