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Neglected engine start up help- OIL!

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  • Neglected engine start up help- OIL!

    I've used this twice within the last on two engines that hadn't been run in YEARS (customers).

    One was a high end, Echo chain saw, the other a cheaper B&S 7 HP pressure washer engine.

    After cleaning carbs on both(varnished up), neither would start (or even cough). Even a spritz of starting fluid or pre-mix, nothing.


    For S&G's, on the chain saw I put one squirt of two stroke oil down the cylinder. As most know, this usually results in a slightly higher compression (PSI) helping the rings to seals better.

    The Echo, after doing this, cranked right up, (smoked a bit, obviously) and began to run normally. A heavy dose of RF and it was running like new..


    The other day, the 7 HP engine, same thing. Squirted some oil down the plug hole, a couple of pulls, it kicked, smoked and than ran great!!!..

    Both started fine , got tuned, ran tops and was put back into service after testing.


    I suspect the little bit of extra compression was enough to suck more fuel into the engine and help them to both start. Something to remember when trying to start an engine that's been sitting and all else (carb cleaned, has spark, etc) has been done... Good for the engine too, some extra lube where there hasn't been any for quite awhile (in excess of TWO years).
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

  • #2
    Well done...rings probably stuck. Once you get it going the heat and the oil unstick them and off to the races.

    I seen fellows use a propane torch and shoot the flame down the spark plug hole to heat the piston and cylinder with the same results. Mostly old snowmobiles that have been sitting around for a few years and won't start willingly.

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    • #3
      friend brought a weed eater to me to look at.
      only 2 months old, but would not start.
      he said it had good spark.
      he modified the adjust ment screws so he could get a regular screw drive onto them, gave up and bought a new after market carb, but still could not get it to run.
      I had to pull the rope 16 time to get a final reading of 90 psi on my compression gauge
      looked in plug hole and I saw a line running down the cylinder wall.
      told him to pull the jug to inspect piston ,rings and cylinder.
      he still has not done it last I talked to him about it

      a neighbor brought a Stil edger over.
      same old thing, he even tried a new carb .
      compression and spark was good.
      told him to look for primary compression loss.
      not being able to suck the gas and air thru carb due to crankcase leaking
      he found the screws plate carb bolted onto was loose.
      tightened them up and it fires up and runs well.
      problem is he already bought and new edger

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
        friend brought a weed eater to me to look at.
        only 2 months old, but would not start.
        he said it had good spark.
        he modified the adjust ment screws so he could get a regular screw drive onto them, gave up and bought a new after market carb, but still could not get it to run.
        I had to pull the rope 16 time to get a final reading of 90 psi on my compression gauge
        looked in plug hole and I saw a line running down the cylinder wall.
        told him to pull the jug to inspect piston ,rings and cylinder.
        he still has not done it last I talked to him about it Shoulda still been under warranty no?

        a neighbor brought a Stil edger over.
        same old thing, he even tried a new carb .
        compression and spark was good.
        told him to look for primary compression loss.
        not being able to suck the gas and air thru carb due to crankcase leaking
        he found the screws plate carb bolted onto was loose.

        tightened them up and it fires up and runs well.
        problem is he already bought and new edger
        I had a weed wacker that had only two bolts holding the cylinder / head to the block which kept coming loose, (erratic-high idle as it leaned out).
        After resurfacing the cylinder base- RED loctite fixed the issue. The Red was good for like up to 450 F, the block never exceeded 200 or so... Was good after that.

        But the oil trick works good (I was about to give up on it).

        Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-02-2018, 12:49 PM.
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #5
          yea same thing I told him.
          but he had used a dremmil to cut a slot in the screw heads while still in carb, so he had to cut thru the part of carb that the screws were inset into.
          told him most big box stores do not even have anyone with knowledge look at anything, just give a replacement

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
            yea same thing I told him.
            but he had used a dremmil to cut a slot in the screw heads while still in carb, so he had to cut thru the part of carb that the screws were inset into.
            told him most big box stores do not even have anyone with knowledge look at anything, just give a replacement
            Ah, I've done that before I got the correct tools, but the machine wasn't under warranty...
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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