Hi everyone this is my first post on this site so sorry if this is in the wrong section....anyways about six months ago I went halves with a mate in purchasing 2 Yamaha saltwater series vx225 76-degree 2000 model outboards.which have the xxl 30inch legs.. my mates 1 is fine because it going on a fishing boat which needs the 30inch leg..however mine is going on a 1750 matra missile/bullet boat.which is like your Allison/bass boats in the usa..now the problem is I have rang every salvage/bone yard here in Australia for a 20inch leg there is none to be found..and nobody even knows if they came out here with the 20inch leg in Australia all the ones I have seen are 30inch.i did look on the boat.net parts diagrams and the weird part is my Australian 2000 model v-x225 is carburated with six individual carbs.. on boats.net I have to go back to the year 1995 to get the 225 with six individual carbs and my engine numbers don't match up completely on the site... L225CETO 62K U 850205 T...... I have found the exact looking usa model and it comes up as a 1995 model L225TXRT last one on the list on here (boats.net).....im thinking the usa's emission laws is the reason there injected after 1995 not sure tho..anyways the question is do the usa Yamaha v-x 225 76-degree outboards come with the 20inch leg on them? or are they available... anyways thanks in advance for any information or help thanks...
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changing vx225 midsection from 30inch to 20 inch
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cant help much other than your model number posted wont exist in the US system.
a model code of VX225 would be a V max OX66 motor.
means an EFI 3.1L.
our 3.1L carbed motors started in the early 90's as a V-76 250 and in the mid ninteys a 225 version was made.
by 97 all the US 3.1L motors were EFI.
what your going to need is a midsection,exhaust tuner and drive shaft for a 20" 3.1L.
I don't know if the ex tuner was different between the carbed and EFI versions of the 3.1L.
the V-76 designation stood for a V configuration with 76* between the bank to bank centerline as opposed to the then industry standard,except mercury, of 90* bank to bank.
the X refered to a cross induction loop charging induction system.
not to be confused with cross flow.
there were a few overlapping years in the US market that had both 2.6L motors and 3.1L motors both designated at 225 HP.
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thanks for trying to help everyone my full engine number is L225CETO 62K U 850205 T......if that helps maybe I just cant understand the numbers properly.....this is a 3.1L motor well atleast it says that on the carb airbox...Last edited by roccochiodo; 01-14-2014, 09:53 AM.
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[QUOTE=rodbolt17;88741]cant help much other than your model number posted wont exist in the US system. Which is why I asked for the PID prefix.
Without a complete model identity or PID it is difficult to know what in the hell we are talking about.
People want help but then won't tell us what they have for which helps is needed. Seems to be the modus operandi.
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I have a different take of the model designation prefixes.
V to me stands for Vmax series. As in, a motor that is designed primarily to be run on a bass boat or bay boat. I have never seen a V anything that did not have a 20 inch mid-section.
The V might have started life as being used to indicate a V76 degree block but then there are SX models that use the V76 block and then there are now VF models that either don't have a V at all (the I4 VF150LA) or which have a 60 degree V block (the VF200/225/250LA's).
The X to me also stood for OX66 EFI.
The only thing for certain about Yamaha's is that just when everyone seems to understand their methodology they go and change it. Model identities used to be easily understandable. The improved them such that now a guide is needed to know what in the hell the model is.
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From what I can tell a 62K L225CETO is more or less the equivalent of US model 65K LX225TXR().
But the US model is EFI and you say that yours is carbureted.
And the US model has a 25 inch mid-section whereas you say yours has a 30 inch mid-section.
The L indicates a left hand turn propeller. Not particularly desirable for a bass boat.
Where did the business of VX225 come up?
Bottom line is I don't think that you can get there from here. It would be better and more cost effective to sell whatever it is that you have and to then buy what is needed to fit your boat.
I am out of good ideas and altitude.
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostFrom what I can tell a 62K L225CETO is more or less the equivalent of US model 65K LX225TXR().
But the US model is EFI and you say that yours is carbureted.
And the US model has a 25 inch mid-section whereas you say yours has a 30 inch mid-section.
The L indicates a left hand turn propeller. Not particularly desirable for a bass boat.
Where did the business of VX225 come up?
Bottom line is I don't think that you can get there from here. It would be better and more cost effective to sell whatever it is that you have and to then buy what is needed to fit your boat.
I am out of good ideas and altitude.Last edited by roccochiodo; 01-14-2014, 12:05 PM.
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ok searching every single year model one by one on here (boats.net) its a 1995 model in the (usa)... and its the last 225 on the list L225TXRT it even says vx 225 76-degree on the usa's engine cowling aswell and there also carbed over there! they must have not been very popular in the usa because it seems you's are not very famailar with them... there are heaps over here in aus just not in a 20inch leg...Last edited by roccochiodo; 01-14-2014, 01:06 PM.
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The stuff on the cowling is just marketing crap. It means nothing.
What has meaning is the model identity which is on the data plate. Also, the Primary ID number that is on the data plate.
An L225 is not a VX225. Two completely different models. No matter if the cowling markings fool someone to think otherwise.
Go back to the Yam parts catalog and you will find an VX225 as well as the L225. Again, completely different models.
Confusing I know.
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doing some more research it seems that all 3.1L MIDSECTIONS from 94 to 2002 are the same! injected or carbed so I just need to get a 20inch midsection from a vmax or similar which has four bolts each side of the midsection...the way I have worked this out is I put the engine number in L225TXRT and clicked on the midsection gasket it came up with all the models it fits..is doing this accurate or not?Last edited by roccochiodo; 01-15-2014, 01:46 PM.
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the bolt pattern and the gasket are the same.
the EXHAUST tuners MAY be different.
like I said, the VX on the cowl simply designates its a V engine and X is cross induction.
like boscoe said the stuff on the cowl is meaningless marketing stuff at best.
you will need a 20" midsection and possibly the EX tuner and a 20" drive shaft.
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Don't forget the shift shaft, the water pump tube, a new lower unit (or drive shaft as Rod notes) and goodness knows whatever else. You put in a new drive shaft and now you are dealing with a shimming and set up issue. Special tooling is usually needed.
A mid-section is more than just one part. It is an assembly made up of a number of detail parts.
Look at all of the parts that comprise a 20 inch upper casing. That is pretty much what you will need plus the other stuff that has been mentioned.
Also, look at the bracket assemblies. An L225TXR with a 25/30 inch mid-section uses a different power trim and tilt assembly than a 225TLR with a 20 inch mid-section uses.
Once you have totaled up all of the parts and all of the work required you might want to consider selling the wrong motor and buying the right motor. Unless you just like to mess with stuff. It will be an interesting and challenging project. Anything can be done, it is just a matter of time and money.
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I don't know what shipping and taxes would be but usually places like Outboard Recycling or sunset marine sell complete mid sections for about 1000 dollars.
takes about 3 hours to change the drive shaft and shim the pinion.
if all your doing is changing the shaft the only special tooling nessasary is dissasemmbling the prop shaft bearing carrier.
on the 3.1L L case special tooling is a MUST.
as is a service manual.
myself I typically check the fwd gear lash BEFORE disassembling.
then simply shim the new shaft until the lash is back to the PRE RECORDED lash.
this keeps the wear pattern on the fwd gear and pinion in the same spot.
just remember on an L case the aft gear is the fwd gear.
occasionally they are reffered to as the front and rear gear.
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