Fried ECU/CDI 2001 F80 Carbed

[Marc Kruse]

1st post but I've been lurking since I got this motor
I know I need to replace the rectifier ( I read other post about this problem) What other things do I need to ck before replacing these parts (don't want to burn up 600 bucks.
I know my battery connections were tight and clean, what else might have cause this?
Thanks in advance

[CatCam]

Marc -

I have experience with this.

What fried is your Voltage regulator right below your CDI, the CDI is probably ruined as well....

Just a question - are you using wing nuts on your cranking battery?

[CatCam]

Remove the bolts holding your Voltage regulator on and you'll see the backside is charred to a crisp.

There seems to be trend of the older regulators having problems as well, check out the posts here:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...ught-fire.html

[Marc Kruse]

No wing nuts and everything clean. I read your post before posting. I haven't pull the rec. yet put will. Just looking for anything else to
Ck.
Thanks

[boscoe99]

Sorry to hear of your problem.

The F80/F100 rectifier/regulators have been known to be problematic. Worse still is that when they light up they can take out the CDI, as has happened in your case.

I see that your R/R is marked with the numbers "48". Here in the US (not sure where you are) Yamaha US authorized the replacement of the "48" R/R back in 2002 with an updated version.

Good news is that only updated rectifier/regulators are now available so you will be getting the updated one. CDI has been updated as well.

I don't think your problem was the result of anything you did or did not do. Falls into the category of sh1t happens.

Unfortunately, the type of rectifier/regulator used in your motor creates a significant amount of heat when doing its job. Note those cooling fins? Larger motors have a water cooler r/r to keep temperatures in check.

[Marc Kruse]

Sorry to hear of your problem.

The F80/F100 rectifier/regulators have been known to be problematic. Worse still is that when they light up they can take out the CDI, as has happened in your case.

I see that your R/R is marked with the numbers "48". Here in the US (not sure where you are) Yamaha US authorized the replacement of the "48" R/R back in 2002 with an updated version.

Good news is that only updated rectifier/regulators are now available so you will be getting the updated one. CDI has been updated as well.

I don't think your problem was the result of anything you did or did not do. Falls into the category of sh1t happens.

Unfortunately, the type of rectifier/regulator used in your motor creates a significant amount of heat when doing its job. Note those cooling fins? Larger motors have a water cooler r/r to keep temperatures in check.

Thanks 99 I try and keep my stuff in top shape because I spend most of my te on the water at might chasing Flounder and there's not a lot of folks around to
Then to to pull you in. Luckily I was at the ramp when this happened and caught it before it burnt more stuff up

Im in Alabama.
Too bad it's not 2002 I guess I just bite the bullet and replace both parts.

[Marc Kruse]

Remove the bolts holding your Voltage regulator on and you'll see the backside is charred to a crisp.

There seems to be trend of the older regulators having problems as well, check out the posts here:

Yamaha 4 stroke CDI caught on fire - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Like this?

[Sequoiha]

the stator can cause the r/r to burn up as well, replace them as a set..

[CatCam]

Yes, just like that....ouch! Like you said at least you were back at the launch when it gave up the magic blue smoke.

Just for kicks, what does the back part of the CDI look like? When mine let loose I went ahead and replaced the CDI just for good measure but truthfully I never tested it. If it is just burnt on the housing it may still work.......

I would like if Rodbolt would chime in to see what it would hurt if you tried it in it's condition......maybe get his take.

Actually - just took another look at your 1st pic - ***, the CDI is torched a lot more than mine was!


Keep us informed of repair -- hope you are back on the water soon.

[Marc Kruse]

Yeah Cat Cam it got fried too
Did you get yours off this site or somewhere else?
Here there then ECU is 362 and the Rec. Is 195

[CatCam]

Yeah Cat Cam it got fried too
Did you get yours off this site or somewhere else?
Here there then ECU is 362 and the Rec. Is 195

I got both from the site right here - super fast shipping and better prices than my local Yammy dealer. - As you can see very easy to remove, everything is "plug and play". Changed both out and put the earmuffs on and cranked it up. I have the Yamaha Digital Speedo that shows the voltage so I could ensure the Voltage Regulator was putting out the correct voltage and it was......should put out around 14.4V while running, sometimes a bit lower but always in the 14.2V-14.6V range.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before changing the VR and CDI - make sure good connections are made (nuts & lock washers) before you crank it up. Mine has been running on the new CDI/Regulator for 3-4 years now without issue -- but I had wing nuts on mine that came loose so that was probably the cause of my smoked VR. Expensive lesson for me.

[Marc Kruse]

I got both from the site right here - super fast shipping and better prices than my local Yammy dealer. - As you can see very easy to remove, everything is "plug and play". Changed both out and put the earmuffs on and cranked it up. I have the Yamaha Digital Speedo that shows the voltage so I could ensure the Voltage Regulator was putting out the correct voltage and it was......should put out around 14.4V while running, sometimes a bit lower but always in the 14.2V-14.6V range.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before changing the VR and CDI - make sure good connections are made (nuts & lock washers) before you crank it up. Mine has been running on the new CDI/Regulator for 3-4 years now without issue -- but I had wing nuts on mine that came loose so that was probably the cause of my smoked VR. Expensive lesson for me.

I guess I'll be ordering in the morning.
In just hope nothing else got damaged like the charging system. I guess I won't know until I hook every thing up
Thanks again

[Marc Kruse]

Ok guys.
My Bill of sale says it's a 2002( it was bought in 02) but the plate on the motor says it was made in 11/2001 and when I ck there are 3 different parts # 2 for the 02 models and 1 for the 01 model.
And I'm at work and don't have my serial # with me.
Any thoughts?

[boscoe99]

My thoughts are that you need to get the exact PID of the motor from the data plate before ordering.

I am guessing that it is a 2002 model motor. Built in late 2001.

[Marc Kruse]

After talking with the girl on the order desk it seems that one # supersedes all the the other ones.
67F81960-12-00 is the new number.

Thanks
again.