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200 Yamaha F225 Charging Problem

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  • 200 Yamaha F225 Charging Problem

    Hello,

    Have a 2003 Yamaha F225 that was showing high charging voltage on the volt gauge at 3500 rpm over the past several trips. Showing high 15 - 16 volts cruising. Checked it with my multimeter at the battery today at the dock. And at the battery is is actually about 1 volt higher than the dash guage! At idle it is 14.4 and about 3000 rpm it is 16+ volts. So scared to think what it's cranking at higher cruise speeds. I used the multimeter to check battery terminals, as well as on starting cables, and where they terminate on the engine, ...and all the same volt readings..so doubt any loose connections. I haven't had any problems burning out any electronics, lights, or the radio...all seems fine.

    The battery came with the boat. Never changed it out and I have a few season on it myself. Never had a problem with it...starts no problem, and runs electronics with the engine off for hours. It is a marine cranking battery and has caps so it's not maintenance free. (Have three blue top optima's beside it to drive my 101lb *****ing motor but they are completely separate.) Never pulled the caps and check electrolyte..yet. No other sign of boiling over visable. I expect to give it a "feel' after the next run and see if it is getting hot...but haven't done that yet.

    Read tons of posts about possible rectifier/regulator problem. However, because I don't know the real condition or age of this battery, I am posting today to ask if the battery itself could cause such over charging if there is something wrong with it? Can't find a straight answer on that.

    Also, just how common is it to have a rectifer/regulator failing on a 2003 vintage F225 with about 450 hours on it?

    Finally, before I start dumping money on a battery and/or regulator, is there any other elements that would result in high charging voltage that I should look for? Any recommendation on how to approach this?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Angler11; 08-11-2013, 08:45 AM.

  • #2
    ok
    first off.
    tell me what color the connection are on the driver.
    the driver is that funny part mounted on the lower pan port side with 4 connectors.

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    • #3
      Rodbolt,

      Heading down to the boat in a couple hours and will get back to you with colors on driver. Looking at diagram you are referring to #14 part 69J-83306-00-00 I guess. Let me know if incorrect.

      Let me know if any other info should be gathered while I'm there.

      Thanks for your reply.

      Comment


      • #4
        Rodbolt

        From driver one plug is pink and pink. Next is pink with yellow stripe and pink with yellow stripe. Next is yellow and pink. Last looks to have 6 wires and I cant make out all of them but...one wire blue with pink stripes, next is pink with yellow stripe, next looks black with white stripe, next looks solid black, next looks blue, and the last ..not sure..grey?

        Hard to see this six wire set without doing a little wrenching. Let me know if the info above lets you identify it.

        note..above is from driver to plugs. From plugs to other harness side wires are different colors not matching.

        let me know what you think

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        • #5
          we need to know the CONNECTOR colors.
          gray or two gray and two blue.
          there was a parts update/recall,expired now, due to that problem.
          wire colors I have, connector colors on YOUR motor I don't know.

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          • #6
            Sorry,

            I believe they were all gray. (That's why when you asked for colors, I thought you had to mean the wires.)

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            • #7
              Rodbolt,

              I'll double check the plug colors later this week but think they were all gray. I see some other posts elsewhere, some of them yours, that describes this problem on my engine.

              Which driver unit (what colors) would indicate that it is the updated/corrected driver? Two blue/two gray?

              And to confirm, the driver is the part that would control the charging voltage symptoms I'm having?? (If I was shooting, I would have shot at 69j-81960-10-00 Rectifier & Regulator Assy, so this is already helpful! Thanks.)

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi. I have the exact problem that you described well with my F225TXRB which I believe is a 2003. I am trying to confirm that my problem is in fact my Rectifier /Reg before I spend what appears to be well over $300. US for a new one (I'm in Canada). This thread appears to just stop without an answer. Can you please provide any further clarification? Please note my connectors appear as two gray and two black (attached). Thanks in advance.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MealsOnReels View Post
                  Hi. I have the exact problem that you described well with my F225TXRB which I believe is a 2003. I am trying to confirm that my problem is in fact my Rectifier /Reg before I spend what appears to be well over $300. US for a new one (I'm in Canada). This thread appears to just stop without an answer. Can you please provide any further clarification? Please note my connectors appear as two gray and two black (attached). Thanks in advance.
                  Would have been better to start your own new post. Now you know for the future. Since you are Canadian we shall forgive you. This time.

                  What is the complete ID for your motor?

                  There was a known over voltage issue with certain 2003 model year F200/F225's. A tech bulletin was issued here in the US for an updated R/R and fuel pump driver and isolator. Appears that you have the original parts. Might or might not be your problem.
                  Last edited by boscoe99; 08-08-2016, 03:53 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for your direction! Motor ID tag says F225TXRB 69J X 1003602

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                    • #11
                      Here is a link to pictures of the port side pan area and ID tag:
                      https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ercln49d6...cnL3XPJca?dl=0

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                      • #12
                        might want to start a new thread if this one did not give you the answers you needed

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                        • #13
                          Thanks. I am not used to these forums. I did not want to clog things up with possible redundant posts re: overcharging. However I can see the benefits of a new post therefore will heed the advice.

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                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=boscoe99;123386]Would have been better to start your own new post. Now you know for the future. Since you are Canadian we shall forgive you. This time.


                            Thanks for the laugh Boscoe, It's raining here in Sebastian, Florida. I'm bored to tears!!
                            Chuck,
                            1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her

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                            • #15
                              Your specific serial number is included within the technical bulletin that addresses the installation of updated parts (rectifier/regulator and fuel pump driver and isolator) to address an excessive voltage issue.

                              Excessive voltage is more than likely indicative of a failed rectifier/regulator. Disconnect the connectors from the R/R to the fuel pump driver and isolator and check the voltage from the R/R outputs and verify that it is excessive at that point within the system.

                              But before you spend money replacing the R/R I would disconnect the ground lead from the R/R to the engine block and verify that it is clean and secure. Excess current gets shunted through that lead to maintain the voltage at a prescribed value. If the ground lead is not properly connected it could lead to an excessive voltage.



                              If the R/R needs to be replaced you then get to decide whether or not to also install the updated fuel pump driver and isolator. Maybe rodnut will ring in with an opinion about this matter.

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