Yamaha 703 remote switch wiring help - urgent!

[JohnOrrett]

Hi folks, I posted a while ago about getting a replacement switch for my 703 remote, used on a 1995 130 HP outboard.

The problem is, the new switch is slightly different from the old one. The original one has 5 wires, the new one 6, with a spare blue terminal. Similarly the old switch had 3 double yellow connectors, but the new one only has two. Consequently, I'm having trouble hooking all of the wires together. The tilt/trim works, the engine fires, and the buzzer sounds, but the choke switch doesnt work. Ive changed the connectors to ensure that the choke works, but the buzzer doesn't, as its obviously not connected!

Ive tried connecting the spare blue from the switch to the buzzer yellow/red stripe connector, but it doesnt work. I've looked at a wiring schematic, and everything seems connected, but the lack of the 3rd double connector means I'm one connector short.

Am I on safe ground leaving the buzzer disconnected? I dont know whether the yellows are live feeds and whether I could splice the 2 together, but loathe to do so without expert help!

Many thanks

John

[Sequoiha]

Yellow is key on power 12v B+, the blue wire is the choke wire, yes you can tie the 2 yellows together,

[JohnOrrett]

Hi Sequoiha, thanks for replying, and sorry I couldnt thank you sooner, but had no internet access where I was fishing.

I dont know if my replacement switch covers a newer remote, or it is an upgrade. The yellow is fine, but my blue feed to the choke came through the loom, and not via the switch, and looking at a wiring diagram, this seems to reflect that. In the end, I disconnected the buzzer to enable me to use the choke, and it worked fine. I'll have to keep an eye on the overheat warning on the tacho tho just in case .

Regards

John

[rodbolt17]

no it wont.
dark blue is choke, yellow is key on 12V.
choke should only have 12V when depressed, yellow has 12V any time the key is on.

[JohnOrrett]

Hi rodbolt17, that is how its working thanks, choke has 12v when depressed and as you say the yellows are 12v when the key is on.

It is still a pain having one double yellow connector less on the new switch unit than on the old. I replaced like colour for like colour when I changed it over and was scratching my head.

The worst part however was trying to get all of the wires squashed down to put the back plate on!