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DYI Full Instrument Cluster and other repairs.

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  • DYI Full Instrument Cluster and other repairs.

    Hello to all members, sorry this is a long post. I felt some background was needed for my questions that I will be asking.

    My dad has a 1997 Xpess H51 boat with 1997 Yamaha C80TLRV that he bought two years ago. When he got it, I helped him add some hardware and a few items to make the boat more usable. But after he got it on the water, well, things could have been better. Since he bought the boat, some major changes have been made.

    1.) Added a CMC 6" jack plate to help with porpoise and cavitation problems.
    2.) Rewired the entire boat with heavier wire to *****ing motor. Was #10 now is #4. Also changed #16 power leads to dash and instruments over to #14 minimum with #10 to main fuse panel.
    3.) Changed prop from Ballistic to Turbo. Sorry, for got the size change.

    Now, for advice and input I want from fellow Yamaha owners

    1.) We have already corrected some of the problems from the dealer where my dad got the boat. They gave us half a tank of old bad fuel that resulted in us pulling the tank and cleaning all the lines and tank out. Will be ordering a new fuel line and tank fitting to fix that issue and replace a bad squeeze bulb. Will also be adding inline screen filter to help trap some particles before they can get to the engine. Any input on fuel filters would be appreciated. This is a premix unit; I don't want to filter out the oil, just particles that will cause problems.

    2.) We have an idea that the lower unit will have to be disassembled and the water pump impeller checked. My question on this is: Can I purchase a kit with all of the seals and new impeller in one package, or will I need to get each item separately?

    Part of this has to do with the overheat alarm going off while the engine is at low idle. Squirts water pretty good, but alarm sounds on idle. Speed engine up or start running down lake, alarm stops sounding. I have used my Clymer's Yamaha Service book to locate the water jackets on the exhaust and cylinder head as well as the temp sensor. We will be pulling these covers to check the passages for debris and gunk that might be causing any clogs.

    3.) Along the lines of the water cooling system, my dad is interested in adding a water pressure and water temperature gauge into the instrument cluster. I have found the gauges and senders on Boats.net. I am in need of any advice on adding these to the engine and making them function properly. I don’t have to buy any additional Yamaha 10 pin harness assemblies do I?

    4.) The trim sender is a 3-wire hookup. By the looks of the plug it should be a 4 wire, but I digress. I have found the proper Yamaha 3 wire gauge on Boats.net. My question on this is: Can I make my own harness for this? Or do I have to buy an expensive Trim/Oil Harness to make this work. I can’t find the plug bodies anywhere but I can get my hands on but connectors, heat shrink and color coded wire without any trouble.
    5.) I am wanting to change out the factory instrument cluster of a tach, speedo and fuel gauge to either the proper matching Yamaha gauges or Teleflex aftermarket gauges. I also want to add a voltmeter to the cluster. Not interested in adding an hour meter, every one we have on other equipment has stopped working and really just don’t want to mess with the headache of keeping one running. I have already rewired the factory cluster, so I don’t think changing the gauges will be a problem unless Yamaha has special plugs on their gauges. Also, I want to add the above-mentioned trim, water pressure and water temp gauges to the cluster as well. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

    I will be doing most of the work myself. I do a lot of the prep work when we get ready to take it out anyway. A little extra advice to go along with the service manual doesn’t hurt.

  • #2
    Charlie,
    I will answer what I can -
    I would recommend a see-thru Racor water separator/filter in addition to the motor mounted filter.
    Water pump repair kit comes with everything you need except a good thread sealer (I use Permatex 14A with Teflon), marine grease, and a torque wrench.
    Overheat at idle is probably caused by weak water pump. Also pull thermostat and pressure relief valve and check for debris that may be clogging both. You can test the thermostat in a pan of heated water and thermometer - should be fully open at 140 degrees. If the PRV gets clogged with debris or the spring breaks, then it will not fully close and allow cooling water to bypass the water jacket and drain out the relief holes.
    A temp gauge is easier to install than a water pressure gauge - also, you only have to run one wire to the gauge from the sender, instead of tubing that can crack/leak.
    You are right, the trim sender is a three wire hookup - the plug is four wire - the extra wire is a grey wire (on my 2000 C115) that is the thermoswitch signal to indicate an overheat condition - this signal goes to the ignition control and also to the gauges/alarm of the console via the grey wire in the four wire plug.
    I don't see why you could not wire this up yourself w/o a special harness.
    Get yourself a Yamaha shop manual for that particular outboard - go to www.yamahapubs.com for online ordering. The Clymers is good, but you really need the Yamaha manual also.
    Good luck and let us know how you come out.
    Ken K

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply Ken. Got my Yamaha Shop Manual ordered. Been making a parts list of items to get and replacement parts. Just have to find time and money to get it all done.

      Thanks again.

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      • #4
        UPDATE:
        I have received confirmation e-mails on my Yamaha Manual from Yamaha and Parts order from Boats.net. Both orders should be here for me to get started on repairs next weekend. Right now, just concentration on fixing fuel line and getting engine tunes and correcting overheat issues. Gauge cluster will wait for now.

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