Alternative to "Winterizing"

[tperk100]

I live in an area that usually experiences only 2 to 3 cold months per year. As opposed to going through the winterization process, in the past I have always simply filled my tanks, treated the gas, and then started up and run my engines for 10 or 15 minutes every month or so. I am wondering if this is still sufficient with the alcohol in the gas now.

Any thoughts / suggestions are appreciated.

[BQUICK]

Running the motors for 10-15 minutes in cool or cold weather does more harm than good. Especially with 4 strokes, I have seen people do this and end up with lots of condensation in the oil. The oil simply cannot get up to temp to remove the condensation. I would do the things you mentioned but either change the oil prior to the period or run it for a good amount once a month.

[mrv8outboard]

How long have you been using E10? You are using Startron in your fuel right? E10 posses problems for extended storage. The fuel in your tank lasts about three to five weeks only. You can not properly stabilize E10 (even though there are E10 compatible stabilizers). The products that state they are for E10 really means it will mix with it and not create an issue. They can stabilize the base fuel components but not the Ethanol. Because of this what is happening in the first three to five week is the Ethanol evaporates faster than it can absorb moister (ethanol can absorb 100% of it's volume in water). This is a large part of your octane. Your octane rating drops below manufacturers recommendations quickly , 86 octane in three weeks is 82, 93 is 82 in five. Now that is a simple explanation but you get the picture. So use only top quality fuel, purchase only what you are going to use in three to five weeks and store you tank bone dry. Then upon season start up fuel up, prime the system through your filter then change out the filter. Any debris will be picked up and in the old filter. Also not many things mix well with E10 i.e. octane boosters and ect.

At store time it is important to change the oil and filter (4 stroke) not only because of moisture in thr oil but more important the oil is contaminated with hydrocarbons from the combustion process that changes the from a base to an acid that will slowly etch (eat away) the internal bearings. This is know as parasitic premature engine damage.

Soooo. If we are what we eat, so is you engine. Feed it good quality (not by the price) fuel and oil and it will live a nice life.

If you ate at McDonald's every day morning noon and night would you live long and be healthy? Same goes for your internal combustion engines.

[tperk100]

MRV....very interesting. At this point I have a full tank, so I will not be draining it. I am going to go with my plan to run the engine about 20 minutes or so each month.

If what you are saying is accurate....then this alcohol thing truly sucks! Right now I am using Startron and Yamaha Ring Free. I am going to look further into additives that might help.

Thanks

[markle]

markle

As far as the alcohol and condensation issues,I couldn't agree more.I really do not know how cold cold is in you'r area,but you might want to change out the lower unit lube as well.Any water in there and it freezes,your SOL.Tried it many years ago.Cracked the L/U.Not pretty!Should dump it once a year anyhow.

[tperk100]

Are you referring to water in the oil?

[markle]

markle

I'm refering to water in the lower unit.Not normal,but if the L/U leaks for any reason,beware!