No watter out of pee tube

I'm stumped here. I can't get any water out of the pee tube.

The engine (115 2 stroke) has been in storage for 2 years and was peeing before storage.

This is what i've done so far to try to fix it.
Changed the water pump. Cleaned the pee tube and tubing from power head to the outlet (small clog in the outlet).

I removed and checked the thermostats (some salt deposits but they worked in hot water on the stove)

I'm not sure what else is left. I've tried on the ear muffs and in a test tank.

I have only run the engine for 2-3 minutes so it doesn't overheat (I don't trust my alarms right now).

Is there some other way to find out if the water is pumping through the system?

Any ideas?

JP

[boats.net]

If it's not overheating after running for 3 minutes then probably a blockage in pee tube.

I don't think it's that. I removed the hose from the engine to the case and it's clean. Even if I run it without the small hose no water comes from the brass fitting on the engine. I also stuck the end of a zip tie about 6 inches into that fitting but no luck

I ran the engine with one thermostat cover off and no water comes out even though the thermostat is full open (ran for about 1 minute at 800 rpm idle in test tank filled to just above the cavitation plate).

What does this indicate? The impeller is fresh there's a chance I could have done it wrong but I don't see how? (This problem existed before the impeller change as well so that's another sign that it's not the impeller)

Right now I don't trust the gauges and alarms as they are a fresh re-install (and were/are Frankenstein wired). Will the engine shut down internally before overheating?

Any other ideas? I've gotten this far and I'm stumped. What would be the next thing to check?

JP

[boats.net]

The water level needs to be 4 or 5 inches above cavitation plate for water pump to prime. If it overheats the alarm should sound and engine should reduce to 2000 rpm's.

I have a 40HP and if I hook up muff's it does not pump water, put it in a trashcan and fill it with water and I'm pretty sure you will start pumping water

Best of luck to you.

That seems to be the problem with the pee tube. I swear it used to pump water on the ear muffs but maybe I used to have a thicker/shorter hose?

Even in the bucket I have to fill the water above the rubber stopper covering the trim anode bolt. This seems higher than I used to have to fill it? This was the problem as it was tough to fit the garbage can just so under the trim unit.

Does this seem normal?

JP

[cranebug]

I recently bought a boat with an F225 (which is being discussed in another thread) point is , i used the muffs with only one side connected to the hose.... and originally put that on the port side of the intake (50/50 chance) Couldnt get any water out of pee tube (obviously didn't run for more than a few seconds) and couldnt figure that out because the "seller" ran the motor for me on muffs. I then tried it on the starboard side (which is connected!) and the pee tube worked? Now i use a combination of a 50 gallon tote with muffs on the starboard side

[byron.akhavi@gmail.com]

You need to check for a blockage. Flush the motor from the top first and detach the connection for the upper flushing tube leading to the engine cooling.system. Blow it out with low air pressure. Then secure it with the same clamp of plastic tie (doesn't need to be too tight since low water pressure passes through it during cooling).

This "tell tale" just shows you the water cooling is ok.

Make sure it is discharging water at all times. You may have an obstruction in the tube. Otherwise, you need to check the impeller for the water pump and drop the lower unit. That is a whole different ball ****.

[byron.akhavi@gmail.com]

When flushing, watch that connection for the muffs. Do not run high water pressure and take the time to double check the connection if you run low idle. Start at idle RPM and watch. Then wait for a minute for water to flow through the "tell tale". Then check the water temperature after two minutes and confirm it is not too hot. If you have a good flow with low water temp (just a little warm to hand touch) you can run at a faster idle. The whole check should be 5-7 minutes. Placing that lower unit in a tote filled with water is the best bet and attach a hose to keep the water running or combine it with the muffs as secondary precaution. Burn that power head and be prepared to pay a Yamaha dealer big time!! So watch and be prepared to stop that motor in 20-30 seconds if water is not discharging.

[pstephens46]

You need to check for a blockage. Flush the motor from the top first and detach the connection for the upper flushing tube leading to the engine cooling.system. Blow it out with low air pressure. Then secure it with the same clamp of plastic tie (doesn't need to be too tight since low water pressure passes through it during cooling).

This "tell tale" just shows you the water cooling is ok.

Make sure it is discharging water at all times. You may have an obstruction in the tube. Otherwise, you need to check the impeller for the water pump and drop the lower unit. That is a whole different ball ****.

You realize you are responding to a 10 1/2 year old post?