OVERHEAT ALARMS @ 3500 RPMS HELP!

[SARASOTASPEEDER]

Let me start by saying Thanks for all the info Guys!

Yes I did change all fout thermo switches and thermostats. It seems the starboard side starts and the port follows but I will test them independently soon.

The motors are injected and the onboard tanks are half full. How long does these last? I've only had permix prior to these so I need to get familiar with the system and do a good visual on all hoses etc.

When this started I pulled the engine covers for a visual and both pony tanks looked 3/4 full of oil. Would this eliminate the clogged line issue?

How do you check for sludge in the large tanks? a stick or spoon?

What oil should I use for these motors?

I guess Salt Terminator sounds good after inspecting and cleaning of the PVR. With the replacement costs of these parts being under $10 would you advise replacement due to age, I have to order gaskets anyway too. Or just a good cleaning and gaskets will due. I'm only looking to increase future dependability not rebuild.

I'm flushing with dual feed mickey mouse ears setup, I run it 5-7 minutes total time. How long normally would it take the to reach operating temp idling during flush 25 min. post use?

I did add seafoam to my fuel tank. And all the plugs looked good, brown in color. Other than alittle external surface rust.

Hope I can grab this rabbit by the ears and fix-it.
Right now we have RED TIDE here, limiting time and desire to breath it. The boat is on a lift in Lemon Bay, while the trailer gets some repairs and upgrades. What position should I leave the motors when stored on the lift or trailer. vs trailing?

Looking foward to some great boating soon.

[Ken]

Speeder,
I am not familiar with the OI sysyems, but if there is a "mini-tank" under the motor cowling, then disconnect the oil line that leads to the oil pump at the pump and see if oil gravity feeds freely to the pump. If it does, then there is no restriction in the lines. If it does not flow freely, then you need to remove the tanks and drain them of all oil and look for sludge in the bottom. Like I said, if different oils were mixed, then that opens the door for sludge/gel formation. In my premix C115, I use Quicksilver, but any major TCW-3 should be ok - just don't mix them.
If you can get the gaskets and PRV valve for under $10, go for it.
I run my C115 for about ten minutes for a good freshwater flush.
I thought red tide was a problem only here in Texas!
If on a lift, I would raise the motors just enough to clear the water at least half a foot at high tide.
Good luck,
Ken K

[SARASOTASPEEDER]

Well, I R&R the PRC valves, it was loaded with salty mineral buildup. Time for flush treatment! The inside housing, hose connection, spring, piston needed a lot of cleaning. I replaced and lubed the grommet and then a new gasket.

Oil injection got serviced, no sludge, lines looked good and sencors worked correctly (Pulled the oil tank float and arrows moved accordingly). Tested each engine, after getting on top, but still getting alarms above 3500rpms.

Can anyone confirm if you get a temp alarm on a twin set-up the second engine also goes off but recovers when put in neutral?

I did notice on the tach mulit-gauge a orange square is showing but not illuminated is this normal or just a warning area? Some moisture inside the glass as well.

Oh Yeah, we are on the gulf coast with Texas and get Red Tide yearly when it's bad puts the hurt'n on boating.

[SARASOTASPEEDER]

Well I've got some answers,learned alot and did some good preventative maintiance to my engines too!

Yes, if you have twins and a alarm goes off it triggers your other motor too, which is cured by shifting to neutral. So test each motor to find your problem.

After putting seafoam fuel conditioner and cleaner in my fuel and running half a tank my alarms stopped, and ran great for a day. Then the starboard motor wouldn't start.

The answer for me was build up varnish from dryed fuel in the fuel pump diaphram and carbs bowls from sitting for long periods. The seafoam cleaned enough to stop a higher speed lean out situation causing the alarm. But then losened up more to make a clog.

So as a kid when I use to have my jonboat and a 25hp motor we unplugged our gas lines during flush and ran the carb dry at a idle.

What do you do for twins without ez disconnect hoses? add a valve or do you think in my situation sitting so long between usage had a lot of build up? Besides fuel stabilizer and I doubt this boat will every be as inactive as before.

My boat only had factory engine fuel filters on the motors can anyone recommend a typical setup for twins? (ie oil filter type or 2) and tips on installation.

[Ken]

Speeder,
I do not have a quick disconnect on my fuel line either - you don't need one. Don't run your motors dry before you put them up. It's a waste of fuel and time. You want to keep fuel in the carbs as much as possible - you do not want the seals and gaskets drying out. Every time I walk by my boat, I reach over the transom and squeeze the bulb because a lot of the fuel in the carbs siphon back down to the tank.
Just grab the ear muffs at least once every two weeks in off season and run your motors until they warm up enough to open the thermostats. The hardest thing you can to an outboard is just let it sit there for several months at a time. Run the motors, that lubes everything internally and the paddles on the water pump impeller get flexed also.
Here in southeast Texas in winter, we will have a fairly warm day at least once a week. That's when I hook-up the ear muffs and run my motor. I add fuel stabilizer to my fuel tank, especially since my fuel is pre-mix and it seems to go "sour" quicker than pure gas. Also keep your fuel tank at least 2/3 full to cut down on condensation. Oh yeah, keep your batteries charged to cut down on sulfating.
Good luck,
Ken K
Beaumont, TX

[SARASOTASPEEDER]

Ok that makes sense, but do the carbs drain when you tilt the motors for transport or storage? or just tilt them enough to transport and store vertical?

How about fuel filter/separator? What's a good setup for twins spin-on or inline?

[Ken]

Speeder,
On my 2000 C115 it does not make any difference if the motor is tilted for transport or vertical for storage, the fuel (most of it) still drains back to the tank. That's why when I walk by my boat in the garage, I reach over the transom and squeeze the bulb til it gets hard. I don't think this is necessary every time you walk by your motor - if you run it once a week in off season, that should be enough.
I don't have a separate fuel filter - just the little dinky thing that came with the motor. If your boat is stored outside and exposed to wide temp fluctuations with the weather, then I would maybe add somethng like a Racor that has a transparent bowl. You can look and see any water contamination in the bottom of it. I don't think they are very hard to install.
Good luck,
Ken K
Beaumont, TX