Burn all fuel before storing?

When running fresh water through an outboard prior to storing, is it good practice to remove fuel line from motor and let motor run until it stops on its own (in order to burn all the fuel that is in the engine)?

I've heard it's the best thing to do from some people, and the worst thing to do from others. Does anyone know the real answer?

I have a 90 hp Yamaha, probably about 7-8 years old. It sometimes sits for 2 months before I get to take it out again.

[dorf]

Excellent Question.

I'd like an informed answer about that also. Yamaha, 2 stroke(owners manuals) suggests use fuel conditioner in the fuel and fog it until it quits.

I've always run 2 strokes out of gas.

But my Jet ski (3 cyl Fuji engine-2 stroke-) with diaphram type carbs they recommend-- fog it--BUT- Leave gas in the lines and the carbs.


Seems like running out of gas would be the best choice for Float type carburetors ???

Answers somone ????

[Toulla]

A debatable question

On My single carburetor 25hp Yamaha, I stabilize the gas and drain the carb. When I run it dry I hear the fuel pump tapping. I figure it couldn't be good for it. Asked the dealer, did not get a definite answer.

[dorf]

Well I guess it is still a toss up of what to do.

Yam says stabilize-fog-shut off.

On my 2 stroke 80 hp jet ski- I stabilize-fog and shut off, leaving fuel in the carbs and lines.

In spring, it starts immediately.

My service guy , winterizes( 2 stroke/carb engines) by using a heavy dose of stablizing mixture and running out of gas and no fog.

I have used them for 25 years plus, so I guess that works.---Incidently as I have stated before in other posts--they spend much of their time re-building carbs on boats that have sat unused for many months. Most all just gummed up. They recommend Evinrude/Jhonson/Bombardier 2+4 conditioner. I've used it for 25 years plus...no problems.

So ??????.. I guess using fuel stabilizer (continually)is probably the most important thing. ...cheap insurance hopefully ???

[robert graham]

My motor is a 1999 Yamaha 90HP premix and I run the Stabil Marine all the time but a bit more right before storage, then drain carbs. Install a fuel/water seperator to help prevent fuel/ethanol/water related problems. Good Luck!

[boats.net]

There is a drain screw on each carb, draining carbs work better than unhooking fuel hose and running out of gas(that wont get all gas out of carb).

Here is what has worked for me for 8 years now on my 60hp and the boat is stored outside. I always use StaBil (now Stabil Marine) and ring free with each addition of gas. The tank is filled up before winter storage (21 gal), which is 8-12 weeks here, and when I launch in early spring it always starts right up. This has worked for me with no draining anything and not fogging. Temps here can get down to 15-20 and the Potomac will freeze over. I have 190 hours on the motor.
Please note that I did not say do not do anything else, but this has worked for me for the last 8 years.

Just did my 2004 F90 yesterday.

Filled tank, added stabilizer and ran it on the muffs to warm the oil for 15 minutes.

Changed oil, oil drain plug washer, and oil filter.

Cracked lower unit gear oil drain and since the oil was clear with no water I just topped up what I had drained to check it, replaced gaskets on both fill level and drain plugs.

Changed my remote water separator filter, shut off my newly installed fuel valve and ran the motor dry.

Drained all four carbs via drain screws and shot some fogging oil into the bowls.

Shot fogging oil into each cylinder via the port screws in each cylinder next to the exhaust manifold.

Pulled lanyard kill switch then cranked the engine a few turns to work oil in and replaced port screws.

Unscrewed, emptied, cleaned, and reassembled engine-mounted fuel filter.

Pulled the fuel pump outflow tube, shot some WD-40 into the pump, and buttoned it up again.

Sprayed a fine mist of WD-40 over the entire engine then replaced cowl.

---

If anyone sees any issues with above I'd appreciate the feedback.

As for running the engine dry I have heard it's a no-no on a two stroke, multi-carb engine as you run the top carb empty first and you can end up with a no-oil situation in that cylinder. I was not concerned about this for the 4 stroke but I did notice while draining my carbs that the top carb bowl was indeed empty. Each successive carb toward the bottom however had more fuel left in it than the one above, with the bottom carb bowl being almost full.